_GOTOBOTTOM
Automatic Bidder
mother
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:39 AM UTC
I remember sometime ago there was a topic that was posted about a snipping ebay program that allowed you to bid super fast. Can/will anyone here share that with me. I am so tired of losing at the last 3 seconds.

Joe
slodder
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 02:51 PM UTC
I have never used them and I have lost a bunch of auctions to them

My friend uses one constantly. He just searched w/ google and found a service that does it. I did a guick search for ebay sniper and sure enough - a ton.

You basically put in the item #, time to place the last bid, and a price or winning margin maybe and it does the rest. I may be over simplifying it a bit. But in concept that's it.
Sabot
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 07:08 PM UTC
I've used an online bidbot program once and it did work. I do not recall for sure which program I used, but I think it was http://www.esnipe.com/. I normally only bid on things I really, really want, and only if I can get it at a substantial discount.

I normally do not bid until the final minutes of the auction for a normal/un-rare item. If the item is rare, hard-to-find or "in demand", I don't bid until the final seconds. I get more "enjoyment" out of bidding manually as opposed using a bidbot. I believe that if I miss an item, another one will be along soon.

If the item ends during a time when I will be asleep or away from access to eBay (at work or away from home), then I will bid the traditional way.
PvtMutt
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:20 PM UTC
I don't understand???

If you bid what you are willing to pay,
how are you being beat out??
matt
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 09:43 PM UTC
the bidbot could submit a bit right after you, and say add 10% if that's what you instruct it to do........
mother
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Posted: Friday, September 15, 2006 - 10:30 PM UTC
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. I hate that it has to come to this…but in the last year I lost out in the last few seconds left.

Tony,
See…I’ll watch a model for say three days, I’ll have in a bid in. Then at the last ……second some guy will bid me out by .50 cents. Ok good for him. But now it seems to happen way to often, so why not play even. If I don’t I’ll never win.

Joe
PvtMutt
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 02:25 AM UTC
Well Joe like I said,bid your top dollar and don't forget
about the postage.

If you loose out the other guy paid to much,that's the
way I'd look at it.

...Tony...
05Sultan
#037
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 03:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Well Joe like I said,bid your top dollar and don't forget
about the postage.

If you loose out the other guy paid to much,that's the
way I'd look at it.

...Tony...


I gotta agree with Tony a 100% on this one,Joe. If You bid what you think or KNOW what the item is worth and you win it for less,then you got a bargain.If your fair worth bid gets beaten then you have to say it was bought for more than you thought it was worth.
cheers for bargain hunting!
mother
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 04:32 AM UTC
Tony, Rick…
Your guys are right…100%, fair and square those guy won. See you missed my point, being polite here, I had bided on three HEMTT this week, all separate bids only to lose each in the last seconds. Ok…good for the guys that won, yeah really. I’m now asking for the very same program that is being used so that I to can get the same chance. That’s all.


Quoted Text

Well Joe like I said,bid your top dollar and don't forget
about the postage.

If you loose out the other guy paid to much,that's the
way I'd look at it.



It’s not about the money, postage or anything…heck I’d go $100 bucks. It’s about getting the chance at it in the last 3 seconds as well as the other fellow.

Thanks Guys,
Joe S.
Sabot
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 06:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I don't understand???

If you bid what you are willing to pay,
how are you being beat out??



For me it is a matter of getting an item at the cheapest price, not necessarily winning. If I don't get it cheap this time, oh well, another will be by soon.

For example, say a $35 kit I can buy at the LHS was listed with an opening price of $10 plus $5 shipping. That's less than half price and a pretty good deal. I won't pay $35 for it or else I would just buy it at the LHS. But I'd buy it for $20 online.

If I bid early with $15 (15+5 s/h=20) as my maximum bid, some newbie will bid a few times until he is the high bidder. Then there goes my pretty good deal.

If I just watch the auction using My eBay, the newbie bids the opening bid amount, maybe a little more, say $13. Many newbies tend to just bid the opening amount.

A few minutes before the auction ends, I log on and check the status. If someone has bumped the price over $15, I let it go. There will always be another along. If the newbie's opening bid is still there, then I will get ready to place my bid.

If I'm really serious about winning, I will actually open up two eBay windows on the same item. One of them will be at the bid confirmed page and the other will be the one I will keep refreshing. When the page item ticks down to the final minute or even seconds, I then click the confirm bid button on the first page.

If during my refreshes, the price has gone over my bid confirm price and I really, really want the item, I will then use that page to submit a new bid and then use the back button on the first page to become my watching page.
ShermiesRule
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 07:18 AM UTC
Let's say you program the bot to bid up to $100 in the last three seconds. How is that any different than manually bidding $100 at the beginning?
JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 08:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

For me it is a matter of getting an item at the cheapest price, not necessarily winning. If I don't get it cheap this time, oh well, another will be by soon.



Joe, I feel your pain. It galls me to loose by a 50 cent bid. But I bid as per the others. I always put in the max bid I am willing to pay--period. It took me over a year to snare some kits, and when I did, apparently the big spenders had theirs already--I got them at a steal!

Say, how many of you have gotten screwed on eBay? Of my several 100 transactions, I've only had one that we could not resolve. I went to eBay for complaint resolution--they were not that useful.
Henk
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 08:12 AM UTC
Two windows open, now that is ebaying at is best... Thanks for the tip Rob, I'll try that myself. If my computer will cope with the strain .

Got some nice last second deals on some resin Legends figures and 1:16 scale tracks today. Coincidence has it that I outbid the same bidder on all three... :-) . And not a bid bot in sight... :-)

Cheers
Henk
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 08:34 PM UTC
Robin's method is one I have been using for quite some time now. It works well for me and I'm sure for others too.

The biggest question I ask myself before bidding is "Do I want/need it?" Then I ask myself "How much am I willing to spend?" That is the dollar amount I put in when I manually bid using the two-page method. I've been able to get a bid in under about 6 seconds (helps having cable internet) which usually does not allow another bidder to get theirs in even if they are doing it the same way I am. By the time eBay registers my bid and the competing bidders refresh, realize I've out bid them, then place their new bit, it's "game over!" That's how I got my AFV Club M59 155mm.

Mike
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Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 09:19 PM UTC
Robin: Dialup internet, right?

Thats the bane of dialup services... slower refresh rates. I have complained to eBay LiveHelp a few times after being beated out by mere seconds, and they have enabled the bid-refresh to work a bit better.

But you put a cable i'net bidder against a dialup i'net bidder, and the cable will win out, all other factors being equal.

I've even suggested that ther is a way to 'defeat' these sniper programs, and get a proper auction functionality. You 'extend' the close date for X minutes after the last bid past the 'close' date, then it really goes for the MAX bid, a proper 'going, going, gone' option. The sniper hits it at X-one-second and blip, there are another 5 minutes. Very quickly the sniper's give up because they can no longer 'snipe'.

Sadly, not enough people are willing to 'complain' and petition eBay about this issue.

With that said, if you want a 'recommended' sniper program, why not look in the eBay discussion forums.
AndyD
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 10:59 AM UTC
Hi Mother,

The program / service I use is http://www.powersnipe.com

I too got sick of losing in the last 3 seconds, and also as I live in Oz and I usually bid on items in the U.S or U.K means I don't have to stay up till 3 or 4 AM to make any last second bids.

Powersnipe is pretty good - I have won numerous items with it.

Cheers,
Andy
roudeleiw
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 12:23 PM UTC
I just read somewhere that the Firefox Browser offers an Add-on for Last minute bidding.

You will certainly find this on the Firefox Homepage

Cheers

Claude


ericadeane
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 06:17 PM UTC
To Joe and Rick: When you've lost auctions by $.50, it's not necessarily that the winner beat you out with only a bid that was $.50 over your maximum bid.

Let's say you bid on a model for maximum bid of $22.50. You are currently the high bidder at $17 (because the person you've outbid placed his maximum bid at $16.50). You wait casually for the end of the auction, hoping for a $17 closing price. But at the last seconds, a sniper beats you out of the model and his winning bid is $23 -- the auction jumped from $17 to $23 within the final seconds and you lose by $.50 right? Not necessarily. If the sniper had bid $100 at the last seconds, he still would have won the model at $23, right? You (nor the seller) have no way of knowing his maximum bid -- what the sniper was really willing to pay for it. All you know is that it was above your $22.50. The fact that no one else sent in a bid approaching his $100 max bid makes it seem that he only bid low. If another person with sniping software had put in a bid of $51 in the final seconds, then Sniper #1 would have won the auction at $51.50 -- because his bid was pushed. He still would have won, but it would have cost him more dearly.

You may feel more satisfied that your $22.50 max mid jumped to $51.50 but regardless, it's unlikely that you only lost by a $23 bid. Remember, EVERY auction with more than one bidder will have the losing bidder lose by $.50 or $2.50 (or whatever the bidding increment is at that time).

To put it even more simply, imagine you see the same auction and someone has bid the opening bid of $10. You decide that you'll put in a max bid of $22.50. You do so and you take over the bidding at $17. Right away, you know that the previous high bidder's max bid was $16.50. You end up later winning the auction at $17 because he's done. Neither the first bidder nor the seller will ever know that your max bid was $22.50. In a sense, you BEAT the other bidder's $16.50 by $.50 but you were prepared to pay more than that. Make sense?

Like Robin said, just don't give in to emotions. The kit will come up again. And how are the last five models you've bought going? Finished them yet? LOL

My philosophy: let's build some more and bid less (unless it's for my auctions, of course! LOL)
Sabot
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 07:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Robin: Dialup internet, right?

No, DSL, but I have used the same technique with dial up and cable as well. I move every 3 years or so and have to use whichever service is readily available in my local area. I have been using eBay now for over 9 years.

Also beware of using sniper programs. I have seen several auctions where two or more snipers have placed ridiculously high "max" bids. They are hedging on the hope that the current bidders and any potential snipers have made or will place reasonable bids. All it takes is for those two snipers/bidbots to both have ridiculously high bids for a $30 kit to accidentily be sold for $100+.

If you bid $300 (for example) just so you don't get outbid in the closing seconds thinking that the other bidders are using a more reasonable $30+ range and another bidder is sniping with $100 so he does not get outbid either, you will end up "winning" that auction for $105.
05Sultan
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Posted: Sunday, September 17, 2006 - 07:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

To Joe and Rick: When you've lost auctions by $.50, it's not necessarily that the winner beat you out with only a bid that was $.50 over your maximum bid.

Let's say you bid on a model for maximum bid of $22.50. You are currently the high bidder at $17 (because the person you've outbid placed his maximum bid at $16.50). You wait casually for the end of the auction, hoping for a $17 closing price. But at the last seconds, a sniper beats you out of the model and his winning bid is $23 -- the auction jumped from $17 to $23 within the final seconds and you lose by $.50 right? Not necessarily. If the sniper had bid $100 at the last seconds, he still would have won the model at $23, right? You (nor the seller) have no way of knowing his maximum bid -- what the sniper was really willing to pay for it. All you know is that it was above your $22.50. The fact that no one else sent in a bid approaching his $100 max bid makes it seem that he only bid low. If another person with sniping software had put in a bid of $51 in the final seconds, then Sniper #1 would have won the auction at $51.50 -- because his bid was pushed. He still would have won, but it would have cost him more dearly.

You may feel more satisfied that your $22.50 max mid jumped to $51.50 but regardless, it's unlikely that you only lost by a $23 bid. Remember, EVERY auction with more than one bidder will have the losing bidder lose by $.50 or $2.50 (or whatever the bidding increment is at that time).

To put it even more simply, imagine you see the same auction and someone has bid the opening bid of $10. You decide that you'll put in a max bid of $22.50. You do so and you take over the bidding at $17. Right away, you know that the previous high bidder's max bid was $16.50. You end up later winning the auction at $17 because he's done. Neither the first bidder nor the seller will ever know that your max bid was $22.50. In a sense, you BEAT the other bidder's $16.50 by $.50 but you were prepared to pay more than that. Make sense?

Like Robin said, just don't give in to emotions. The kit will come up again. And how are the last five models you've bought going? Finished them yet? LOL

My philosophy: let's build some more and bid less (unless it's for my auctions, of course! LOL)



Roy,I understand perfectly.The point I was trying to make was if you decide beforehand the max you are willing to pay for an item,then make it your max bid and just let it fly.If you lose by half a buck then it wasn't your time to win.If I lose by 12$ then I didn't do my homework or the other bidders were pretty dumb.I've lost by .50 and won by a penny!It's all about research,discipline,and patience.A little luck doesn't hurt either :-)
cheers!
old-dragon
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Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 08:54 AM UTC
I used to complain about being outbid by what was shown as .50 cents in the last few seconds of any given auction...if I had a buck for every time I lost I could have bought a hobby store of my own! So, in order to be part of the competition I bid in the last few seconds too...sometimes I win, sometimes I laugh and see 1-5 more bids sneek in too past me. I've won auctions placing a newbie bid 1st day and no-one else touched it by auction end. If you want to win, bid to win, but don't over pay!
Took me about 8 auctions to finally get my DML Maus and it was by a sellers store front...hey, it worked and was alot less hassle!{but no last second adrenaline rush though}
Removed by original poster on 09/19/06 - 19:54:40 (GMT).
WhiteWolf
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Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 04:56 PM UTC
If its rediculous win prices thats the issue, heck...

$155 shipped from HK for a near-mint 1/16 scale Leopard 1A4 kit from a guy I sold it to 10 years ago for over $350 (privately) Got it 4 hours after posting with Buy It Now. These usually sell for $250 and up, plus shipping.

$20 shipped for a 120mm trio of Verlinden #959 German Panzer crew (Almost $40), Kirin Nebelwerfer (about $40) and something else. Over $80 at usual prices.

$15 for Verlinden's #1946 MG crew figure pair (re-issue) which is almost $40 list.

There are others, but those are the best, ignoring e-mailing winners to see if they'll sell part of a collection of parts go, and then having free parts show at my door.
 _GOTOTOP