Hi guys,

How do you glue photoetched parts and metal parts on plastic and/or resin?

Up until now, I was using cyanoacrylate, but results are mediocre to terrible: I have a big problem with quantities (I end up with glue drops which are way too big, details are flooded), and gluing is definitely not solid, especially on the smallest parts.

Any suggestion?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Laurent

wat i would normally do is i sand them down.
basically we all know that shiny surfaces have difficulty sittin in its place.
so by sandin it down i created small or shud i say microscopic grooves.
then i wud use a super glue to stick the parts in.
but i know there are many methods. but here's mine to share.

Hello, mate!

Do you, or are you planning on using alot of photo-etch? If so, you may want to look in to one of These!

Otherwise, good old super glue, in a few thickness formulations, is my choice. . .some modelers have had good luck with plain old white glue, but I can't wait that long to move on to the next piece!
Keep modeling!
~Gunny

I use CA and I apply it with a sharpened toothpick or a piece of wire. I never apply glue directly to the piece from the bottle.
I always put a drop on a scrap piece of sytene. Then I dip the toothpick in the glue and then to the part then apply the PE part to the other piece

I typically use a slow cure CA and a toothpick. I'll put a drop or so on the top of a water bottle cap and just use the sharp tip of the toothpick to apply. I like using the bottle cap as it sits about a 1/4" off of the table, so it's hard to drop stuff into the glue.

Lately, I've been using Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue. It's meant for attaching canopies, but bonds with plastic, metal, etc. It's like regular white glue, but polyvinyl-based and dries clear. Best thing about it is that it dries much quicker than white glue. It's worked well in the couple of small applications I've tried it on.

- Frank

I made a handy little CA applicator with a few household items. I took an ordinary sewing needle and cut the top of the eye off leaving a Y at the end. I then took a piece of plastic sprue cut to a comfortable length and sanded smooth. I then drilled a hole in one end of the sprue so the pointy end of the needle will fit in the end. I placed a drop of CA into the hole at the end of the sprue and inserted the needle into the sprue.

Once dry, the tool is handy for placing a drop of CA where you want it. If the Y gums up with dried CA, I just burn it off with a lighter.

I apply a drop of CA gel to the a fine toothpick, then use that to apply the glue to the piece I'm attaching the PE to.

In cases where the part is not under tension (an instrument panel for example), I use Future as my adhesive. Take a look at the attached pic. I used Future to attach the instrument panel backing to the kit piece, then applied more Future to glue the instrument panel "front".



Future is especially good in this case, as you don't have to worry where the drops of glue get put.

Thank you guys!

Laurent

thats how I've put about 30,000 pe parts on myself