I know this topic has been done to death, but I've read what I can find and I'm afraid that I'm still struggling. I'm using an Iwata HP-C Plus with Tamiya acrylics and Tamiya thinner and I can't consistently get it to stop spitting. I've tried all sorts of combinations of air pressure and paint to thinner ratio and after awhile can get a pretty good result with solid colors, but I have grave doubts about trying a camo pattern. Back in the prehistoric days of the early 70s I used a cheap Binks AB and an equally cheap compressor and was able to get good results consistently, but now I find that with considerably more sophisticated equipment I can't even come close to what I did then. I have no doubt that it's my fault and not that of my equipment, but I could really use some help.

The formula was change din the Tamiya acrylics maybe 15 years ago. I got award winning results, even with their gloss paints. I have had minimal success airbrushing hte new formula, very grainy surface.
Try Model Master acrylics. These work wel for me in the AB. I haven't tried Vallejop model air paints,. but if they'e as good as their regular brush paints in the eye dropper bottle, they could be great.

I'll go with Al on the Model Master paints. Colors are great and fairly accurate. They can airbrush without thinning in my Iwata and no spattering. The Vallejo Model Air are great paints as well but I personally prefer the Model Master. They seem to be more durable to me and have no compatability problems with either acrylic or laquer dullcoat.

Wow. Thanks Al. Back in the day I mainly used Floquil; upon recently returning to modeling I read quite a few good things about Tamiya paints so I decided to go with them, but apparently they're not quite all they're cracked up to be. I guess I'd hoped for somebody to come along with a magic formula for success with them, since otherwise I'm stuck with about twenty or so bottles of useless liquid. I do appreciate the advice, and I'll give Model Master or Vallejo a try.

You posted while I was typing, Mark. So it's another endorsement for Model Master, eh? Looks like that's the one I'll try. Thanks.

Interesting that you're having issues with an Iwata airbrush and Tamiya acrylics. I've got a Revolution CR and Tamiya and Model Master work fine for me. I thin the Tamiya with their thinner at a 3:1 paint to thinner ratio and they've worked very well for me. Paint doesn't lay down grainy to me and I don't have any tip drying issues, either. Model Master has worked fine as well and I thin them with MM thinner at about the same ration. I spray between 15-20psi.

Now PolyScale has been the death of me. I can't find any formula that works to avoid tip drying...

Good luck working out your problems. I'll go along with the pack and say that MM acrylics work great for me.

- Frank

Well Frank, considering that I'm sort of grasping at straws right now (being that the Tamiya is all that I have at the moment), I'll try a 3:1 @ 15-20 psi and see what happens. However, I do intend to place an order for a few bottles of MM next week.

Michael,

Good luck & post back how it goes. I wonder if the C-Plus has a finer nozzle than the CR and if that's an issue for you?

I think you'll find that the MM paints work well. I also spray them about the same psi as I do Tamiya and so far, so good. I bought some of the MM Acryl Thinner as well as the cleaner. The thinner seems to work well and the cleaner helps afterwards.

- Frank

Thanks Frank. I don't know about the CR compared to the C-Plus; that's an interesting point though, and I'm going to take a look for the answer. I will post back with anything I find out as well as the results of trying it with the mix and setting you use.

Michael

HI everyone, I'm new to these forums.
Funnily enough I am having the exact same problem. I have an IWata HP C plus which I have had for about 2 months and used a few times. I also have been using Tamiya paints and thinners and tried numerous combos of paint to thinner ratios and also air pressure and continually get spitting around the line which makes camo impossible. I will buy and try the model master range tommorrow. What paint colours are recommended for german 3 tone camo scemes? Also do you need model master thinners?

cheers

Hi Anthony. I'm pretty much a newcomer myself here, but let me be the first one anyway to welcome you to Armorama. It's comforting to know that I'm not the only one having this problem. Obviously I can't advise you on whether you need the MM thinners, but here's an "RAL Colour Conversion Table" that you might find helpful. Please be sure to post back here with the result.

Michael

Edit: Oops. Sorry. Forgot to include the link: http://www.miniatures.de/html/int/colour-ral-farben.html

I've had this problem with the Iwata CS and the Badger Universal. Doesnt seem to be limited to one paint type either. I sent a lot of time working out what was happening in my case. It ended up that the paint is drying in the tip after a few minutes use. As would happen with camo type applications. I solved it by having a container of clean water beside my paint booth. I put the tip of the airbrush into the water and spray for a second pulling the needle in and out. Then spray away from the water and the buildup on the tip is gone. remember unlike floquil (the best paint ever before they changed it) Acrylics form a skin. This is exactly whats happening on your airbrush needle and in the tip. The water helps clear it.

Another solution is to thin the paint even more and very low pressures and more coats, but this has caused me some nasty accidents too.

hth's Ray

The main problem with spraying Tamiya Acrylics is the fast drying time. The paint will build up on the air nozzle as you spray. When the gun is triggered after a pause the built up paint is blown off and creates spatter. This has been my experiance. I began using an acrylic retarder from Hobby Lobby. It is in the artist supply section. I add 5-10% to the whole bottle and spray with no additonal reduction. This also helps with brushing Tamiya Acrylics.

Hey Don. It sounds as if you might have produced just the magic formula I was hoping for. I'll be going to their website the instant I finish typing this.

Michael

Edit: Is this the one? http://www.craftsetc.com/Store/ShowProduct.aspx?p=865469

I too experience spitting with my Iwata HP-C and Tamiya acrylics. Sometimes I just increase the pressure to 25 psi and force the paint out.

I haven't tried Model Master acrylics since their new formula came out. The MM Acryls were horrible---either too thick or too thin. I'll have to try them again.

Gunze Sanyo paints spray well, but they normally dry satin.

Hmm. It would appear that this is a not uncommon problem. I'm about to head out to the art supply store and get some acrylic retarder. I'll post my results later today.

Hi Stillhawk,

Nobody mentions Polly Scale. It is outstanding paint. I think it superior to MM and (except for brushing) Tamiya.

Here is an example of how Polly Scale acrylic sticks better than Tamiya and MM enamel: Paint Comparison

I have no trouble getting fine line performance with PS.

Thanks for the recommendation, Fred. I've never used Poly Scale but it's certainly worth a try. I don't know how I missed it because I remember Poly S being around back when about the only resource was "Scale Modeler Magazine." At any rate, I got the retarder but have had company and haven't been able to try it yet. Depending on the result, I'm thinking about getting a bottle or two of MM, PS, Gunze Sanyo, and Vallejo (as well as any others that either come to mind or are recommended) and see if I can't solve my problem once and for all.

Michael,

If you do decide to try out the Poly Scale, please post back on your successes. For me personally, it's been the most problematic of any of the acrylics I've tried. In particular, tip drying. I have to open the paint flow all the way up to break through it when it happens.

JPTRR - do you have a general thinning ratio as well as PSI setting?

- Frank

Hey Frank. Given that tip drying seems to be at the heart of my problem, I'll sure keep that in mind. It will be awhile before I get to try any of them out because I get all my supplies online, but I'll certainly post the results as soon as I can.

Thanks Michael. If I run across a "magic formula" to avoid my tip dry issue, I'll post up as well. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's run into it. I'm still a newbie at the airbrush thing and Tamiya and MM paints have spoiled me with their ease.

In regards to Poly Scale, I've tried different thinning ratios with regular water and distilled water (as per their bottle instructions) as well as some Liquitex acrylic extender, but no luck so far. I'm really hoping to figure it out as I like the color selections that PS offers.

- Frank

Michael,
Liquitex is the one I use. If you do not have a Hobby Lobby, Michaels or AC Moore also carry it. Sorry for the delay in anserwing but I have been traveling for a couple of days.

Don

I have been using Gunze paints for the last five or six years and have had really good luck in terms of airbrushing with them.

I've been really busy for the last week and wasn't able to get back to my airbrush until yesterday evening. I used the retarder and it worked. The one I used was by Createx Airbrush Colors in a paint/thinner/retarder ratio of 5:10:1 at 20 psi. For the first time since I got this airbrush it worked without spitting. I'll still try out some of the other brands, but for now, at least, I'm pleased with the result I achieved.

Thanks Don. I do believe you solved my problem.

Michael

Michael,

Glad to see you're back up and running. I'm going to try some of that Createx stuff with my PolyScale paint issue and see how it goes.

- Frank