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Modeling in General: Weathering
Discuss general weathering topics here.
Another Washing Question
rwscull
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New Jersey, United States
Member Since: July 11, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 12:41 AM UTC
Yet another washing question. I have read numerous posts about washes. I've also checked out a bunch of websites which have articles about washing and I'm more confused than ever. I have a couple of questions that I hope someone can help me with.

I have a tank with a flat enamal finish that I want to wash with a flat black/grey and thinner mixture. Do I have to put a coat of flat laquer to protect the finish first? Or can I apply the wash directly without harming the flat finish? I've seen different opinions posted and would like to know how to apply the wash without ruining the model.

Thanks for all replies.
ws48
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 01:41 AM UTC
It is generally best to apply 1 to 2 coats of Future and allow it to cure at least 24 hours before appying a wash. The Future serves two purposes. One is to act as a barrier to prevent lifting of the base paint from the solvents in the wash. Second is to help the wash flow into and around the areas you are wanting to highlight.
FirstMass
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Posted: Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 11:39 AM UTC
Bob,

I've had good luck applying acrylic washes over enamel finishes. They won't effetc the finish one bit. Just mix a very thin solution of water and acrylic paint with a drop of dishwater detergent (breaks the surface tension of the water and allows the wash to flow better). I use a film cannister half full with water and a couple of brush-fulls of paint. Good luck.

Brian
05Sultan
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Posted: Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 03:15 PM UTC
And yet another fling from the peanut gallery:
If the enamel base coat has dried for at least three days,then you do not need a clear 'barrier' coat.The enamel is a hard enough finish to take the petro solvents on with no problem.You can even use an enamel wash with no fear whatsoever,
As far as the 'flow' of the wash goes,weathering in real life isn't evenly placed so why should it be so in scale?Even so,if you desired "eveness",then just work the wash where you want using some of your least favorite brushes .
cheers!
rwscull
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Posted: Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 05:36 PM UTC
Great stuff guys. Thanks for all the info.

Removed by original poster on 08/15/06 - 05:05:00 (GMT).
Archerman
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Posted: Monday, August 14, 2006 - 01:07 AM UTC
We had a discussion about this at our club meeting this weekend. As the new guy in the club I am constantly asking the experienced guys questions.

I ran into some wash difficulties lately and it was sugested that part of the problem might have been due to the very high humidity levels we've been experiencing recently on the east coast. I normally allow the base coat to dry for 2 days before applying a protective coat. Since my basement work area isn't air conditioned, it was recommended that I allow extra time for my paint and coating to dry before applying washes.

Have any of you experienced this problem?
05Sultan
#037
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Posted: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 12:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

We had a discussion about this at our club meeting this weekend. As the new guy in the club I am constantly asking the experienced guys questions.

I ran into some wash difficulties lately and it was sugested that part of the problem might have been due to the very high humidity levels we've been experiencing recently on the east coast. I normally allow the base coat to dry for 2 days before applying a protective coat. Since my basement work area isn't air conditioned, it was recommended that I allow extra time for my paint and coating to dry before applying washes.

Have any of you experienced this problem?



Ohhh,yeah. High humidity levels always screw with petro based paints.Worst is probably shooting Dulcote and have it turn foggy white due to the water it picked up from the ambient air and laying on your shooting target. Spray in air conditioned room can help,dehumidify or wait for dryer times is the answer.
cheers!
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