Well I need some help. I managed to superglue the cap onto my modeling knife.
It was the liquid kind so all down around and inside the cap as well.
What would be the best thing to use to get the cap off or am I just going to have to scrap it?
Hosted by Matt Leese
Super glue troubles.
redneck

Member Since: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 07:59 PM UTC
keenan

Member Since: October 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 08:13 PM UTC
Soaking it in acetone should do the trick, if it doesn't have a plastic or rubber grip on it. The cap on the knife is probably going to get melted in the process, though.
Shaun
Shaun
redneck

Member Since: June 06, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 08:21 PM UTC
Yep the knife has a plastic handle.
I know I could bust the cap off but I want to try to keep this one in use with the cap intill I get my modeling room set up. (Its now kept in a “tool box” with bottles of glue and paint so I’ll need a cap.)
I know I could bust the cap off but I want to try to keep this one in use with the cap intill I get my modeling room set up. (Its now kept in a “tool box” with bottles of glue and paint so I’ll need a cap.)
MiamiJHawk

Member Since: April 07, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 10:14 PM UTC
Jacob:
Sorry mate, I can't help with the present . . . . "dilemma". However, I
would suggest that in future you construct a little applicator for your
"applying" stupor glue in modeling construction. I have a small diameter
wooden dowel rod that I drilled a hole down the center, in the end of it. It
is the "handle" and is about 2 1/2 inches long. Sorry I'm a metric dummy.
In that hole I stupor glued a length of piano wire. So now, I put an amount
of stupor glue on a piece of paper card stock and dip the "applicator" piano
wire tip into that "pile" of stupor glue, and then touch that
applicator to the place where I want to glue two connecting pieces.
I suggest that perhaps you may want to give this idea
some consideration. Developing good working "habits" is a major
part, IMHO, of improving as a model builder. I hope this doesn't sound
like I'm preaching here. That is not my intent.
We learn by doing, eh?
Sorry mate, I can't help with the present . . . . "dilemma". However, I
would suggest that in future you construct a little applicator for your
"applying" stupor glue in modeling construction. I have a small diameter
wooden dowel rod that I drilled a hole down the center, in the end of it. It
is the "handle" and is about 2 1/2 inches long. Sorry I'm a metric dummy.
In that hole I stupor glued a length of piano wire. So now, I put an amount
of stupor glue on a piece of paper card stock and dip the "applicator" piano
wire tip into that "pile" of stupor glue, and then touch that
applicator to the place where I want to glue two connecting pieces.
I suggest that perhaps you may want to give this idea
some consideration. Developing good working "habits" is a major
part, IMHO, of improving as a model builder. I hope this doesn't sound
like I'm preaching here. That is not my intent.
We learn by doing, eh?mj

Member Since: March 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 11:18 PM UTC
I keep a bottle of De-bonder at the ready when using super glue. It's always worked to release my mistakes :-)
:-) . You might want to get a bottle and see if it will release the cap without damaging it...I think it will work okay.
Mike
:-) . You might want to get a bottle and see if it will release the cap without damaging it...I think it will work okay.Mike
Javlin813

Member Since: September 14, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 06:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I keep a bottle of De-bonder at the ready when using super glue. It's always worked to release my mistakes
Amen! De-Bonder is a wonderful thing.
Scott
Clanky44

Member Since: September 15, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 08:36 AM UTC
Hi Jacob,
I have been using the following for the last 7-8 years and have never considered any other techniques. Go to your local Radio Controlled Aircraft shop and pick up some conduit plastic line (used to run the metal wires that control the planes). These conduit clear plastic tubes sell for about $5. Cut them down to 4 inch sections and stretch it like you would plastic rod for an antenna. The trick of this material, is that, regardless of how fine you stretch the plastic, it will stay hollow in the inside, providing you with the perfect applicator for C.A. glue. The tip of it will clog, but remains usable by taking a sharp knife and removing 2 to 3mm off the end.
Frank



I have been using the following for the last 7-8 years and have never considered any other techniques. Go to your local Radio Controlled Aircraft shop and pick up some conduit plastic line (used to run the metal wires that control the planes). These conduit clear plastic tubes sell for about $5. Cut them down to 4 inch sections and stretch it like you would plastic rod for an antenna. The trick of this material, is that, regardless of how fine you stretch the plastic, it will stay hollow in the inside, providing you with the perfect applicator for C.A. glue. The tip of it will clog, but remains usable by taking a sharp knife and removing 2 to 3mm off the end.
Frank



Augie

Member Since: May 13, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 01:08 PM UTC
Great idea, Clanky!!!! Going to the mall tomorrow anyways, might as well pick a bit of that plastic up!
lavgnr

Member Since: November 03, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 08:17 PM UTC
Frank, that's brilliant! I will also look into de-bonder.
Jacob, I can't add much to the solution except that perhaps some acetone-laden nail polish remover . It is weaker than normal acetone and MAY be milder on the plastic bits. This is just a theory on my part.
As for Rick's advice for the future, making "stands" for your CA bottles out of styrofoam is a valuable lesson for me, as I'd destroyed an expensive kit by tipping a bottle onto it. Just cutting an oval to fit, into a 1" thick block of styrofoam, and then always using it can save a lot of grief.
HTH,
Mike
Jacob, I can't add much to the solution except that perhaps some acetone-laden nail polish remover . It is weaker than normal acetone and MAY be milder on the plastic bits. This is just a theory on my part.
As for Rick's advice for the future, making "stands" for your CA bottles out of styrofoam is a valuable lesson for me, as I'd destroyed an expensive kit by tipping a bottle onto it. Just cutting an oval to fit, into a 1" thick block of styrofoam, and then always using it can save a lot of grief.
HTH,
Mike
redneck

Member Since: June 06, 2005
entire network: 1,602 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 08:48 PM UTC
Thanks guys.
Frank thats a good idea. I’ll look into getting some of those.
Frank thats a good idea. I’ll look into getting some of those.
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