Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Yellowed Decals
mdools288

Member Since: July 30, 2005
entire network: 20 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 02:30 AM UTC
Ok, so I've been working on my 1/48 Revell F-14D and the kit decals have turned yellow after I applied them, in other words, I can see a filmy layer around where the actual decal is. I've been working with my X-Acto and Solvaset, by cutting little holes and applying the solution to it. Should I be doing something else besides this? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot.
Tecs

Member Since: March 14, 2006
entire network: 21 Posts
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Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 03:05 AM UTC
Try a coat of future this solved a problem I once had of yellowing of a decal.
mother

Member Since: January 29, 2004
entire network: 3,836 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,121 Posts

Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 04:55 AM UTC
Hey Mike,
I too once had a set that turned yellow, someone pointed out to me that I should tape them to the window, decal side facing the sun. He said that the ultra violent ray from the sun would whiten them up. So I gave it a try and it worked out very well. It took only two days, and was very pleased. That’s my suggestion, good luck.
Joe
I too once had a set that turned yellow, someone pointed out to me that I should tape them to the window, decal side facing the sun. He said that the ultra violent ray from the sun would whiten them up. So I gave it a try and it worked out very well. It took only two days, and was very pleased. That’s my suggestion, good luck.
Joe
vanize

Member Since: January 30, 2006
entire network: 1,954 Posts
KitMaker Network: 121 Posts

Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 04:57 AM UTC
I can confirm that the technique Joe recommends about the sunlight/UV has worked well for me a couple times in the past.
mdools288

Member Since: July 30, 2005
entire network: 20 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 06:19 AM UTC
Alright, so after a long day of thinking I finally decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to a set of Superscale VF-31 OIF decals due to the overall weak quality of the decals, not just the yellowing but the non-sticking/thickness/bad printing. Now, however, I have another question...what's the best way to remove the decals I've already applied with minimal damage to the paint and plastic underneath? Man, it never ends....haha, thanks everyone for your help!
vanize

Member Since: January 30, 2006
entire network: 1,954 Posts
KitMaker Network: 121 Posts

Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 06:40 AM UTC
are they clear coated over or just applied and currently bare?
mdools288

Member Since: July 30, 2005
entire network: 20 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 09:40 AM UTC
One is clear coated, I did it with Future just to see if it would clear up the yellow. But the rest are just applied and bare, though they have received several coats of Solvaset.
vanize

Member Since: January 30, 2006
entire network: 1,954 Posts
KitMaker Network: 121 Posts

Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 05:52 PM UTC
with a little effort, you should be able to take up the decals you did not clearcote with your thumnail or the back (non serrated) edge of a plastic knife. cleaning the crevaces will be tedious, but they will most likely come clean that way. the clear coated one you may be able to sand off with very fine sandpaper (like 600 wet/dry) without lifting a critical amount of the surrounding paint. try stopping when only the clear cote on top of the slightly raised decal is gone and then see if a fingernail or a plastic scraper will lift the decal at that point. once the decal is gone, gently sand the uneven surrounding clear cote so that the whole area is smooth. clearcote and then redecal as needed once that drys.
a light and patient hand is the key if they are stubborn, but they may come off easier than you think, espcially since they are old decals.
a light and patient hand is the key if they are stubborn, but they may come off easier than you think, espcially since they are old decals.
keenan

Member Since: October 16, 2002
entire network: 5,272 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,192 Posts

Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 06:08 PM UTC
A bit of an addenda to Joe's window suggestion:
Depending on your location (weather) and your windows you may want to put the decals in a zip lock bag before you tape them to the window. My old windows used to get a lot of condensation on the inside in the winter.
Shaun
Depending on your location (weather) and your windows you may want to put the decals in a zip lock bag before you tape them to the window. My old windows used to get a lot of condensation on the inside in the winter.
Shaun
Grumpyoldman

Member Since: October 17, 2003
entire network: 15,338 Posts
KitMaker Network: 5,072 Posts

Posted: Friday, March 17, 2006 - 06:28 PM UTC
Future dissolves with ammonia. (so does many acrylic paints) So a cleaning solution containing ammonia will remove the Future. Windex contains ammonia, and may be of a strong enough strength to remove the future, if not a little strengthening with good old fashion ammonia from the good old fashion grocery store will boost it's strength.
As for the uncoated decals, again good old fashion sticky Scotch tape. Press it down, and zip it off fast. If your plastic was clean and grease free, it will remove the uncoated decals with out any damage to the paint or surface.
As for the uncoated decals, again good old fashion sticky Scotch tape. Press it down, and zip it off fast. If your plastic was clean and grease free, it will remove the uncoated decals with out any damage to the paint or surface.
Grumpyoldman

Member Since: October 17, 2003
entire network: 15,338 Posts
KitMaker Network: 5,072 Posts

Posted: Saturday, March 18, 2006 - 03:17 AM UTC
For the hanging in a window.... put in a glass picture frame, then put this in the window......
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