I've always used testors tube glue with my models, mainly because that was what I started out modeling with and i've never curbed the habit. One time i tried liquid cement but found that it was so runny it got on my fingers and i left some horrible finger impressions on the model. Is there any benefit to using liquid cement over tube glue? Thanks,
cap

I use the Testors in the bottle. You just have to be careful where you put it. You can trim the brush that comes in the lid to get more control over where the glue goes or use a small paint brush.

Shaun

I never found tube glue to be as effective as most thin bottle glues are more efficient at welding the plastic together. If you use a small paint brush or touch and flow applicator you can accurately get the liquid to flow along a joint by caphillery action. You do have to be careful with overflow and finger prints.
I always found that most tube glues often have airpockets that would flood at inopportune moments causing real problems with melting.
I do sometimes us Revell contacta where the glue is fed via a steel tube but find that blockages are a problem.
Liquid glue take a little practice to use like all materials and I have found that you get superior joins and use less glue.

This is my opinion based on my own experience over many years and hope it helps you.

Regards,

John

Thanks Keenan and Jimurc, i think i'll give it a try. As with other things i suppose it is just a matter of trial and error

Usually, I use Testors and Humbrol gel glue. After a while, I found Plastrucy plastic weld (cames liquid in a bottle), and ever since I use it mainly in things that need quik glueing. You´ll need to get use to it, at the beginning I started same as you, but in time the experience will teach you how to avoid problems

Cheers

I hardly ever use the tube glue. I bought a tube when I got back into the hobby 2 years ago and I have hardly touched it.

I mainly use Tamiyas Extra Thin or Testors Liquid.

I only pull out the tube glue when I have something thats being a pain to put togther.

I just find liquid glue much easier to use.

Try the Tamiya Extra Thin. The stuff is magic! All you do is put the parts together and brush a little bit of the stuff on the joint from the outside. It is so thin that capillary action pulls it the length of most joints and it does not craze the plastic (unless applied in a very thick drop). This results in a stronger, much neater bond. I wouldn't build without it.

I use tube glue, liquid glu as well as CA glue. Depending on the parts I am connecting and the required strength I use different option.

My primary glue is liquid. In situations where I do not want "runs" I will use tube glue. In situations where maximum strength is required (i.e. rear idlers that tend to break contact when using rubberband tracks.)

I use both Testors tube & liquid glue. For major assembltes (huls/turrets) I use tube and for smaller pieces I use liquid. Foe simualting cast armour I mix both together and dab it on the part. Having both gives you flexibility in the thickness of glue.

I usually use Revell Contacta, the nozzle can be kept clear with the help of a nylon bristle nicked from a brush in the kitchen

With the more liquid glues, it's best to use a paintbrush as they are more precise than the brushes that come in the bottle.

Normally I use for regular glue, Tamiya regular liquid cement, or Tamiya Extra Thin for most things.

For PE and stubborn stuff, I use either Loc-Tite Gel CA, or Loc-tite Thin CA. Stuff works great, and comes in a great applicator bottle...lasts a long while too!!

Tamiya Extra Thin for plastic to plastic and CA for PE & Resin

What I do is mix some tube glue into a bottle of liquid glue to make a thicker, more viscous composition. I use this in conjuction with regular liquid glue, but I seldom use tube glue anymore.

Coming back to modeling I've had the same question about glues.. here's what my experience has been.


The LHS recommended Tenax, but I can't seem to make it work successfully. It seems to dry too quickly. I'm now using Tamiya's (both the regular and extra thin) and they seem to work really well.

I bought some Testors liquid but the smell is awful and it seems a bit too aggressive on the plastic.

For all ltype of bottle liquid cements, I use a technical drafting pen I got at a yard sale. All metal construction, easy to control flow, easy clean up of any build up.
They are regularly available on Ebay with a compass which is another very useful tool for measuring when scratchbuilding or converting things.

I like Pro Weld by the Ambroid Company....I just use a fine paintbrush for application to small parts and the bottle-cap brush for larger parts. Gel type CA in certain instances. Don't like the tube stuff at all.
Gene

Ambroid Pro-Weld and Tamiya Extra thin for me. Wouldn't use anything else, and don't seem to need to.

Mike

I use CA thin type for all kit glueing. A drop or two in a bottle cap and a small gauge wire applicator with a loop-eye on the end(home made). Strong,clean bond and no smell or melt hazard.More forgiving and more working time than you would think.
cheers!