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Modeling in General: Advice on...
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Preping resin pieces
ant88
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Rhode Island, United States
Member Since: January 27, 2005
entire network: 225 Posts
KitMaker Network: 36 Posts
Posted: Friday, December 30, 2005 - 07:20 PM UTC
Hey all. Hope everyones holidays are great. My Question has to do with removing the runnerrs from resin pieces. I have my way of doing it and Im sure others have their own way. I want to know what works best for others. I use an Xacto knife with a number 11 blade which kills the blades fast. Sometimes for larger pieces Ill use the saw blade in an Xatco. Anyone else have other methods which they like using. Thanks in advanced!
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Member Since: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Friday, December 30, 2005 - 07:38 PM UTC
I usually cut off larger pieces with either a razor saw or a dremil with a cut off wheel.
Once that's off I usually get a diamond burr to grind it down near the surface.
The last part is to sand down smooth with sand paper.
MrRoo
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: October 07, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 02:04 AM UTC
On larger pieces I use a razor saw and cut close to the part then I trim the rest with a #23 blade. I just use the #23 blade to do the smaller pieces.

The #23 blade is a heavy curved blade rather then the thinner pointed #11 (I use #10A as they have more 'guts' in the middle of the blade) Then as a final tidy up I either file or use the smaller pointed blade.

Cheers
Cliff
DaveCox
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Member Since: January 11, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 02:07 AM UTC
I find an effective tool is a blade with the very tip broken off (something that happens to mine a lot!). Use the back of the new point and scribe along the line. Long stings of resin come away instead of dust and often very little further clean-up is needed.
ptruhe
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Texas, United States
Member Since: March 05, 2003
entire network: 2,092 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 04:45 AM UTC
I usually saw off the pour blocks slowly with a razor saw and then try to trim down as much as possible with an Xacto blado. I avoid sanding as much as possible since the dust is bad for you.

I did see a #11 blade sharpener in the Micro-Mark catalog but didn't ask for it for Christmas. I'll have to get it later.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81619

Paul
05Sultan
#037
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California, United States
Member Since: December 19, 2004
entire network: 2,870 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 07:22 AM UTC
I use a pair of 6" diagonal cutters to seperate long plugs of cast parts to make it easier for either a #11 or the Dremel tool w/cut-off wheel.Locksmith files and Emery boards for finer tuning.
cheers for New Years!
Lucky
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Wisconsin, United States
Member Since: July 19, 2005
entire network: 102 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 07:57 AM UTC
I go for the razor saw to cut off large blocks and runners, followed up with the #11. But how do you guys deal with seams on figures?
DaveCox
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Member Since: January 11, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 01:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I go for the razor saw to cut off large blocks and runners, followed up with the #11. But how do you guys deal with seams on figures?



Wet'n'dry paper (always used wet on resin to keep the dust down!!) is the best for fine mould seams. I do also have a very small stainless-steel half-round file (I think it was inherited from my grandfather - a surgical intrument maker) that I can dip into water without it rusting!
swingbowler
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Singapore / 新加坡
Member Since: December 03, 2005
entire network: 162 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2006 - 03:52 PM UTC
hi guys,

interesting techniques. will try some of them soon. I'm just starting on a p-61 detail set from aires and will like to share a special situation with you guys.

resin part 7 is the cabin floor/bracket for the radio operator. It is shaped like an inverted 'u' with square angles. The problem is that the resin plug that needs to be removed is smack bang on the inside of the 'u'! It was just not sawable, and was too big to be scraped off with a knife...

my solution: I sawed down the side edges right to the edge, and using my razor saw as a gouger to gouge out the bottom edge of the 'u'. not sure if it's the best method, but it should be done by tomorrow... just spent 2 hours gouging...

to all resin manufacturers who make us modelers remove irregular-shaped resin plugs...
 _GOTOTOP