I am trying to use MIG's pastels. I am using the faded allies green to tone down a OD paint scheme. It looks good until I spray the matt finish on. After the Matt finish is sprayed, you can't really see the pigments that well. I use the Matt finish to protect against finger prints on the pigments, but it seems to take away from the overall effect. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ryan

Ryan lets call it a lesson learnt,you carnt put mig powders on your model and then coat it with a matt finish,it just disappears.
to solve you problem of toning down your OD paint try a few washes,that should do the trick.

cheers

Hmmm. So is it best to apply pigments to a model after it has been put on it's base. My plan was to add it to the scenic base once and then use a sight dustinf to blend it all together. Should I then apply the pigments, or just use the pigments for the dusting? I am going to try to build a plexiglass case for it once completed, but I am not sure if I have the resources to build one yet.

Cheers,
Ryan

While I do tend to agree with tiger about the mig powders just fading away there is a way to coat them with flat that I have used and that is to really put them on heavy , amost a waste though I did it and used much to do it.. the only way to do it is obviously if your just using them as a tint for resin when you mix it for mud.

I think MIG pigmets are over-rated. I'd rather use info I find in issues of FSM and here on Armorama

Luke,

Each to his own, but I would ask have you tried them first? Miguel seems to use them to great effect.

To me they add to my overall hobby.

John

Yep I agree.

I do not use MIG but I do use MMPs.

Same thoughts as above, I would NEVER be without them.

I think you need to ask why so many of the top boys use weathering powders then learn to use them corerctly.

AJ

Alasdair,

Do you have thoughts on MIG pigments vs. MMP weathering powders. I have limited experience with both, and seem to think that MIG pigments "stick" to the model better than MMP.

Do you use pigments as the final step to the model. I had the same question on whether or not to apply a Dullcote over top of the pigments

Irish

Hi To be honest about it I do not use MIG powder nearly as often as MMPs. This is down to my preferance and that I have some "stock" left for personal use officer .
I do use some MIG colours and they work just fine but it cannot be said that they are a lesser being than the MMPs, the same is true vice versa.

MMPs vrs MIG is an old story that has had many "up in arms" before now, oh the good old days of the "PIGMENT Wars"

Personally the main reason I decided to sell the MMPs was the colour choice and the pot design.

I DO NOT sell ANY powders anymore, for no other reason that I reduced my product lines to our own made goods (other products were removed as well for good buisness reasons).

So that stated, I still have a personal preferance on the MMPs BUT I think that is a personal choice.

The methods of applying them are many. I use Meths as a soaker for washes then brush them back for effect. I use all the other methods as well and BOTH systems work very well indeed.

MMPs do give more colours in their range as well as having the Aircraft colours which are fantastic BTW. One day the air boys will wake up to these !!

MMPs have more in the pot and the pots are a lot easier to work with as they have a wide neck and a screw top. Funny this but before I had cracked the techniques this was a big factor in trying the MMPs which I had not heard about at the time:).

MMPs have a slightly larger grain size than MIG making them harder to "paint" with but they have the adhesive which reacts with water to help the "stick".
When applied dry as pure dust (only one of MANY methods and effects you can get) both work as well as each other in my humble hands.

Pays your money and takes your choice.


AJ