Hello,

I purchased the Alumilite Complete Super Casting Kit & was wondering if anyone has any tips on using this product?

Thanks,
Sam

Keep in refrigerator, it will prolong the shelf life, and also extend the pour/cure time. (it has a very fast--- 5 minutes or there abouts cure time----- keeping it cold extends it to about 7-8 minutes)
Also stir gently, when mixing to avoid creating more air bubbles.

Dave said it all....... if it's a intricate mold use a syringe to inject the resin into the mold...... otherwise you'll need either a Vaccum system or a Pressur casting system.

I concur with the previous two posts. Alumilite stuff is great. Mixing the two part resin in equal portions is necessary to get a quality resin. If you put more yellow stuff, your cast will turn out yellow with longer cure time. If you put more clear stuff, your cast will come out more white and hardened with less cure time. Do not overdo the silicone catalyst b/c if you use more than necessary, you will see it oozing out of the silicone mold after you make one- well, they don't include much catalyst anyways...
Stirring the resin mixture gently is very important of course- never mix vigorously in order to avoid bubbles.
A syringe to put in the resin mixture sounds like a very good idea but you will just have to throw it away after one use. Small items are hard to replicate nevertheless because air gets trapped inside of the mold. In addition, I've broken several original parts when trying to break them out of the mold. It is a trial and error issue. Practice makes you a better "caster." I don't know how much silicone stuff you got but mine ran out quickly. You can get the silicone parts cheaper and more in quantity from elsewhere if you do the online search. Tap Plastics comes to my mind. Anyways, good luck.

I have figured out a way to reuse the syringes that the Vet's give you...... use a piece of saran wrap to cover the plunger..... and use a piece of brass rod to push out the hardened resin

If you can source monoject syringes, they are reusable (I've got bags of the stuff). If you're suffering from air bubbles, a good silicone spray or baby powder works good in the mold. Just be sure to blow out the excess.
And if you no access to a pressure pot, you can always use the twirly bird method. Bubble free every time.
And to concur with the above advice from everyone, sometimes using more base than catalyst slows the curing time if you need more flexibility with time.

Baby powder? How? Can you elaborate on that please? What is the "twirly bird" method?

Baby powder, talcum powder, it's all the same. I'm no scientist, but it keeps my castings clean when I use it.
Twirly bird is nothing but a box, string, and centrifugal force, hence the name.

yep... wich will work for some of the slower seting resins........ otherwise you need to be really really quick to pour and de-air

I keep my stuff in the fridge, and like others mentioned, it extends the working time, even with the 3 minute stuff. I can pour 6-7 molds and still twirl the baton.

Hogger99, remember that alumilite is like any other resin, you don't have to pour a mold all at once...you can do layers so intricate details get properly filled. The resin bonds nicely to itself. Baby powder works..in moderation, as said blow out the excess so it won't cake up or block details from being filled.
Vents are sometimes needed to let details get filled, one can cut these off afterwards.
If you ever have a bad pour{it happens} you can crush the bad resin part and add that as a filler to the next pouring, but only if it's for nondetailed{machine guns/thin hatches...} parts. Road wheels{trucks/jeeps/trailers} are a good use for that...one can also use the crush resin to fill the mold itself but give a good coat around the item to be duplicated first then back fill around that area to fill in. Waist not, want not.
Another point to bring up is the more detailed the piece to be copied is, the less life one can expect from that mold...tearing is the death of any mold. Once again you can shread up a bad mold and use it for filler for another mold{food processor/blender works good...just don't let the wife catch you}.
I used to resin cast G gauge trains and parts{1:32 scale} years ago{still have to finish my bilevel commuter car one of these days}.
What do you plan on making out of resin, how many copies do you plan on making and how do you plan on molding it?

{let's do another post}...
You can make a vibrating table to get the air bubbles out by purchasing a cheap, large sized motor{500 series RC car motor...the kind used in a power wheels vehicle for kids, add a 1/4 scale servo arm with a small bolt added to one end, battery pack and viola...vibration. Mount that to a board and put your mold on that and pour slowly. As said before, the less air you add to the resin while mixing{via pouring in parts and/or stirring} the less you have to remove later.
I had a vacuum bell to remove the air, but that's really a p.i.t.a.{pain in the ---} to use .