Hi guys,

I am starting on Tiger I (Initial) from DML and am prepared to have a first go, using metal phto etched parts. Can you guys advice if i can use any brand of super glue to attach the plastic kits?

Thanks a lot (in advance!)!

Cheers!

I think any kind of superglue shouldn't be a problem. I use a brand called Wessbond and they work just fine. The only reason why I use Wessbond is that it comes with 3 tubes in a packet for $1.50.. :-)

for my king tiger, i used the normal cement use to join our plastic models...it works but u have to leave it to dry for a few hours...maybe in th mean time u can concentrate on other parts...

Superglue? Use the cheap ones. Don't have to get the original Selley's Elephant glue. Cheap ones cost a dollar for 4. All my models are pieced together with superglue. No patience for modelling cement. However, must use sparingly.

I use Cynocrylate (CA) glue for critical part and also tiny hard to stand parts.
Other than that, i use Tamiya glue..its works well

Thanks guys,

I was about to get Elephant glue. Will try out your advices and see how things goes.

Cheers!

Remember, CA or elephant glue will leave a white residue when used, so always sand it away. Then paing it over..

Eerie,

will keep that in mind! thanks!

cheers!

I just completed a SAS Jeep with an Eduard photo-etch set. It took me a long time to construct due to the large amount of metal parts. Anyway, I experimented with different types of CA glue and came to a few conclusions:

the cheap 3 for $1.50 ones are great value, they have a slow drying time, giving you time to adjust the parts. BUT you have to monitor the joint, expecially if you use too much glue. It means the 2 parts can actually be floating on each other, and they can actually move whilst still drying (earth's rotational inertia, underground mrt tracks, whatever the physics behind it) If you use too little glue it doesn't stick.

Selley's original supaglue dries faster, you need less of it to stick, so you have to work fast and be confident handling and positioning your parts. BUT crap container design means the tube will dry out before you actually finish using the entire tube. they have a new designed needle type container but it is expensive!

on hindsight, if you are using cheap CA on parts you seldom come into contact with, it's fine. But the parts that have vital joins and will have to take a bit of handling stress, it's still better to use selley's because of the liquidity/viscosity factor will give you a stronger bond.

in other words, I stuck everything on with cheap glue, some parts dropped off because I was a klutz and I bought Selley's and they stayed on after that.
enjoy!

Thanks for the glue review! Haha... can we see pictures of your Jeep? Would love to see the amount of PE on it..

haha, i wish too. i got my photos under the 600k limit now, but kitmaker server is being moved, so no uploading of photos for the moment...
be patient...

Oh yea... haha... hopefully they get it transfered soon... I'll be patient then... :-)

here are some pics:




will learn to take better pics, when i get time off work. in the meantime, enjoy!

Hey... it looks great! Mind sharing your paint chipping technique?

Oh, BTW, I think the seam lines along the wheels should be removed (constant weathering with ground friction)..

ur right, jm, need to improve on the wheels.

there's no secret to the paint chipping, just lots of observation of real vehicles, a bit of imagination, a steady hand, and covering up the really bad ones with jerry cans.

i spend my bus journeys looking out at trucks and stuff...