I downloaded Bucky Sheftall's "Foiled Lightning" from FSM's article samples and I knew I had to give his technique a try. Bare Metal Foil (BMF) and its associated products are not available in the Philippines and shipping costs will be prohibitive if I order from their website.

I tried using ordinary white glue of the Elmer's variety instead of the BMF adhesive that Mr. Sheftall used. I read somewhere that white glue has to be diluted 50% with water but it made a mess since it was very runny. Brushing pure glue directly on the plastic seems to work better. I've covered half of an Academy 1/72 Starfighter's wingtip tank with ordinary aluminum foil and the results are wonderful.

Here is where I need advice: Do I need to look for another type of glue? I'm not sure if the white glue will eventually deteriorate and the aluminum foil will start peeling off after a few years or so. Sealing the whole thing with gloss lacquer might help.

What do you think guys and gals? Thanks!

Hi Jeepney :-)
I've read the same article, wonderful. I have done a little experimenting with white glue. If you don't thin it you will not get a smooth surface and the white glue will tend to fill in the surface detail. If you do thin it the foil goes on fine but comes off very easily. My conclusion is that BMF adhesive is the way to go.
I wouldn't imagine that gloss lacquer would help because if the foil isn't adhering it will still pull off. much like masking paint that's applied on a greasy surface.
:-) HTH

I would try to get my hands on the bare metal foil adhesive that Bucky used best bet.

Thanks guys!

In the meantime, I'll experiment with some of 3M's adhesive products

Howdy Jeepney,

I also read the article in question by Mr. Sheftall regarding the 'foiling' of his 1/48th scale P38J Lightning. Good read. And I must say I've been dying to try it out (though I must admit to at least a little bit of unsuredness regarding the compound curves negotiated by the good Bucky himself).
I have used Microscale's product years ago on an automotive project I was working on at the time with very good results. I also successfully used it on the chrome hydraulic drive rods of my Sci-Fi ED-209. But taking on those tear drop shaped drop tanks and such sounds like a challenge........but then, that's why they're called 'challenges', right?
As to using standard aluminum foil aided by Elmer's?......I am forced to refer to my signature line below...

Tread.

Hey Tread!

I think that Elmer's will do the job nicely. I just wiggled the canopies of my Corsair and Tomcat, both of which were attached with Elmer's, and they still sit firm. Most aircraft modellers use white glue to attach canopies right? Haven't heard horror stories of canopies falling off yet

If I can pull this off there will be an article for all of you guys and gals

No problem Jeepney,

The fault lies in me. I am a product of the old school (and too many kids). Every time I look at an Elmer's bottle I see school project. I guess too much construction paper/folders/crepe paper/fuzzy dots/etc have trained my mind to think in those terms. My short-coming entirely.
I just wish I could wave a magic wand (another past school project) and send you a pack of Metal Foil Adhesive, that's all!

Tread.

A bit different here Tread. I was brought up doing projects not using Elmer's glue but good ole rice glue They come in tubes that cost a penny each. Sticks really nice, supposed to be non-toxic, and if you run out of the stuff you can just snitch a handful of cooked rice from the dinner table :-)

Have to admit that Elmer's smells kinda funny. Is it really ground up old horse and cow parts ?

LOL,LOL!

...that's the rumour!

Tread.

I'll have my med student brother check for bovine DNA samples

I know for simulating bare aluminum sheet, on the inside of racecar body panels, a clubmember used thinned rubber cement with good results, on kitchen foil. I remember him telling us that it was important not to use Reynold's Wrap, but to find the cheapest off brand foil we could. The cheaper, the thinner, and thinner was better. Then he thinned down rubber cememt, and used it. The problem is that I can't remember what he used to thin it with... The other thing he used in places was thinned contact cement. If anybody knows what thins rubber cement, that might be a good starting point. I might see what happens with paint thinner, acetone, and alcohol in rubber cement. He made a scratchbuilt I.S.M.A. pavement supermodified model that was fantastic, and featured aluminum panels, and wings, all done with foil. I will try to reach him, and find out his secret ingredient, but I am not sure if he still lives up here.

Dave

Hey DaveMan Thinned rubber cement just might work! It's sold around here under the "Rugby" brand. It's banned in some places though, because its solvent is addictive and some people get high from sniffing it .

I'm not really familiar with contact cement. If you can list a few brands I might make the connection. Thanks a lot!

Update:

I tried finishing the fuel tank last night. Might have been better off if I experimented on a flat surface. Getting the foil to conform to the nose of the tank is difficult . Tonight I'll start foiling my F104-G. Might be luckier there. Also tried sanding the foil seams as advised by Mr. Sheftall. I overdid it and the tank looks like it got sand-blasted . The glue held firm though. Glue should be slightly thinned with water, maybe 20% or 10% water just to make it runny. I tried applying glue straight from the tube and I ended up with lumps under the foil .

Stay tuned for more on this experiment

Hey Jeepney,

Maybe you should practice applying foil around a dimpled golf ball. As soon as you get that right, everything else will be a 'piece of cake'!

hehe.

Tread.

Good luck my determined comrade!

#:-) Thanks Tread!