I'm highly disappointed. I just attempted my first wash on an AFV. My Walker Bulldog looks goofy. I thinned the oil paint I'm using first, with mineral spirits, then with paint thinner. Both counts resulted in far less than favorable results.

The paint appears "grainy". Instead of leaving a dark "stain" I can literally see the particles of the paint. No matter where the wash was placed, everything is grainy. This wash was applied after applying a coat of Future but the problem clearly seems to be in the paint. Why would the particles not dissolve?

First of all, mineral spirits and paint thinner are the same. Mineral spirits is classified as a weak solvent and does not have the dilution strenght to place the oil paint into a fine suspension. I use VM&P Naptha for most oil reduction, It is a much stronger solvent and a faster evaporation rate. Cigarette lighter fluid is Naptha. Pick up a small can and try it. Note that a wash is a suspended solid and not a dispursed solid. Agitate the wash often as you work with it.

Would charcoal lighter fluid work in the same way?

Yeah sounds like the wrong thinner.
Even with very cheap oil colors I never had such a problem when using lighter fluid.
Another problem could be that the color of your model gets dissolved by the thinner you used for the oil paints. Be sure not to choose an agressive thinner and let the paint dry well before washing the model.

Best wishes (and better luck for your next wash),

ekke

Well, I have to chime in that I would recommend addressing both elements. Use a reasonable-quality paint-- at least Windsor & Newton (and not their cheaper student line). As for the thinner, I keep a bottle of W&N English Distilled Turpentine that I use only for washes. For general thinning and brush-cleaning, I may use regular mineral spirits (or whatever is handy). But for washes, I don't want to take any changes. So I use good paint and good turpentine.

I've been experimenting with enamels for washes. I find that if you use an enamel similar but not exactly the same as the base colour, then quickly wipe away with a tissue before it gets a chance to dry at all, it produces a reasonable effect. It sort of stains the base clour in places.

Joe,
I use the cheaper oil pants (Van Gogh) sold at hobby lobby. I only use them for flesh tones on figures and washes. I use Turpenoid (hobby lobby), which is a turpentine substitute. The cheaper oil does take longer to break done, but I found by first applying a small amount of paint on cradboard, and rubbing it into the cardboard(back and forth), this helps seperate the oil from the pigment (absorbed into the cardboard). Then put the oil paint in what ever mixing continer, and add the Turpenoid, mixing with a toothpick, almost grinding the two together. I will add Turpenoid as needed. You will have to stir, and add Turpenoid as you work, as you will start to get a lot of sediment forming...
Enjoy...
Brent

Hi Joe,
Some brand of oils are water based. They come in the same real oil paint tube, have the same effect but they are water thining. Read the small letters on the tube, I'm sure you'll find what kind of oil it is. It is weird that they can't be thinned with spirits giving the same result as you described.