I have used humbrol liquid great but not very accurate alot comes out. I love tamiya extra thin but doesn't seem to bond as well as thicker g;lues (more forgiving) does paint affect how well parts stick together?

I use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). This stuff is super thin and bonds almost instantly. I got a gallon of it from a buddy of mine about 5 years ago. I think it will last forever.

Patrick

Tenex cement works very well and bonds quickly. It will soften plastic if you use too much. I have used it in making weld lines and roughing up surfaces to represent castings etc.

Testors' liquid cement does it for me.

Thanks,
Kevin Keefe
Mortars in Miniature

As far as Tamiy extra thin cement goes paint has a HUGE affect on how it works, that may be your problem. I always either scrape or sand the pain off the areas I am gluing. It not only weakens the glue, but it tends to mess up the pain also. I love Tamiya extra thin myself. I have never tried Tenex7R because I have been happy with the Tamiya, maybe I will get some for Christmas and try it out.

Hi there!
Here in Brazil I use a product designed for use to dentists, it´s called JET and it is a pholimer resin (it comes in a liquid and a powder way, use the liquid), ultra thin and it solves the plastic and bonds almost instantly.
I also use Testor liquid cement, along with super glue.
HTH

my favourite glue is aceton. it bonds immediately without any residue. but one must not move the parts during the inserting of the glue. furthermore it is not proper for streched sprue, because it will affect the thin plastic.

I use only CA glue for plastic. Loctite´s gel CA glue is my favourite as it doesn´t create as much white powder around the glue spot as some other brands. I only use white glue for base and attaching figures to base. Oh yes and attaching canopies. If you glue clear parts with CA, the fumes will create a white layer on the part....not nice.
Revell Professional liquid glue is quite good as well, I just don´t like to wait for too long.

Toni

Guys,

Try your local plastics supply store. Get weldon by the pint for under $10. You can check out the scrape bin for plastic sheet is sizes you won't find elsewhere. Bought a sheet of 40 thou, 4' x 8' for less than $20.

I use Testors, but I just picked up a new brush on glue from the makers of Krazy Glue. So I will give that a try. I will let you know
how it turns out.

Tenax (Tenex?) for me. When I found I could hold the halves of an aircraft fuselage together and just let a drop of it "wick" down along the seam sealing it , bonding it, and evaporating without damaging the surface plastic then I knew I had my new favorite.

CA glue I often use for interior or structural parts or to fill seams of a bad joint. When I was building NASCAR's, putting together the roll cages and under assemblies and such I lived with CA. A drop, attach part and hit it with glue accelerator and straight on to the next part.

Testors bottle or tube cement I use sometimes for figures as sort of a pre-positioning holder. That is, I'll put a small drop in the center of the arm-to-shoulder attachment area for both arms and attach them. This is enough to hold them in place yet still be able to adjust them enough to get the right weapon holding position. Once it looks about right I hit the seam with a small drop of Tenax, hold, count to ten and it's set.

Micro Crystal Clear for canopies, clear parts, and making glass. Wood glue (aliphatic resin) for groundwork...

hmm... forgot what was the question...

cheers

Supposedly dipping the canopy in Future Floor Wax will prevent this from happening.

I've used a number of differnt glues over time. I like the speed at which Ambroid melts and hardens the plastic. It's large aplicator is adefinite con as is its availability. Tenax I found comes a close second but is comparitively expensive. Plastruct brand seems to work better on the PVC type plastic such as used by trumpeter. currently I use Tamiya Liquid which comes with a fine point aplicator but is a little slower in the melting rehardning stage.I also keep testors Liquid in those blacck bottles with the long aplicators handy. Aswell as testors glue for clear parts. What I guess it will probably come down to is availability, most glues get the job done as I noted above. I realy liked Ambroid but its jiust not localy available and I usually remember to buy when I walk in to find th e bottle empty.

Josh
aKA shiryon

I use Tamiya and testors, CA for Photo-etch. I've always been pretty happy with testor's, but I tried the Tamiya, and like it very much.

I use pro- weld myself.
Works good for me

Guys,

Allot of the kit stuff, Testors, Tamiya et all is just stuff you can buy at a good plastics supply store.

Wow - a lot of interesting stuff you guys use here...

I only have used four types of glue in all my modeling years. Testors Model Master liquid cement is the one I use most of the time for strength. Second comes Gap-Filling CA+ superglue for quick bonds, photoetch and metal-to-plastic bonds, and limited seam filling. Sparingly, I'll use Tenax-7R for quick styrene bonds with thin plastic and or delicate parts. And fourth, plain old Elmer's White Glue - usually in the end assemblies joining pre-painted parts.

All of these in small amounts - the cleaner your basic construction - the finer your paint finish will be...

Gunnie