Hi all
Can anyone tell me how to stop my decals from being shinny when I put them on models ?
Some show an outer edge when on the model.

SAS007

Coat your model with a coat of future floor wax. This puts a shiney surface on the model, then add the decals and coat with dullcoat. This usually does the trick. Also easier to do this if you own an airbrush.

HastyP

Hi Steve,

there are several method to elimate this silvering effect. Decals are best to be applied to a glossy surface. The most preffered method is to coat your model with a gloss clear coat prior to decalling. Used any of your favourite gloss coat, but many modeller prefer to use Future (a household product for polishing floor). After the gloss coat is cured, then place your decal in usual manner. At this stage, in some cases, setting solution is required.
There are also modellers who prefer to cut the decals along the design to reduce the unwanted carrier film. This has to be done carefully.
After the decals (and setting solutions) are cured, normally after 12-24 hours, then you may apply a coat of flat as u wish.

hope this helps

After you have painted your model,it needs a coating of gloss.This smooths the surface,so the edge of the decal will settle tight.After you apply the decal,pressdown with a dampened tissue.this helps blot the water,and fattens the decal more.
If you have a setting solution,like Microsol or Microset,a drop on the decal at this point helps it snuggle down.After everything dries,give it a coat of Dullcote.

One more thing to do before applying decals is to try with a spare decal first. I had difficulties with Academy's decals on my M113A1. I had a gloss coat on the model, but some of the decals silvered, for no apparent reason. Fortunately those small silvering could be painted over.
Also, if you're using decal setting solutions, try them with a spare decal before using them with your model. Decals that came with my dragon Fw190 wrinkled when used with micro sol. I mean when they were dry. Not a fun situation.

Steve,

In the UK "Future" is sold as "Johnson's Klear".

The reason decals silver when put on a matt surface is because of microscopic air pockets in the "grain" of the matt finish under the decal - using a gloss surface (Klear, gloss varnish, glossy paints, whichever you prefer) and a decal setting solution (I use Microsol) helps eliminate this.

I paint the model's base colour, coat with Klear and leave for 48hrs minimun. Then I add the decal with plenty of decal solution and allow 24hrs to set. Then I add another coat of Klear, allow another 48hrs and then add washes before spraying with matt varnish (I find a coating of Klear helps washes "flow").

Hope that helps, mate.

Hi,

I faced your problems before and followed the same advices as above. However, I could not get "Future" and so apply Tamiya's Clear (X22) instead, apply the decals and followed by Testors Dullcote.

It worked!

Cheers!

One other tip to pass along that I learned the hard way! If you are going to use dry transfers, don't try putting these on your gloss surface as they do not adhere well. This style should be applied to a dull surface.

I have (by default) wound up putting these on AFTER the gloss coat is covered by a dull coat finish, and they seemed to be OK, but I wouldn't be surprised if these might work best if applied before the gloss coat if you are going to have a mix of decal styles.

Anybody else use many dry transfers??

(I ususally want specific bumper numbers on the 1/35 armor kits I do, so I wind up having to use the dry transfers or hand paint, to get the specific numbers I want).

Tom