Hello all;
Some time back (up to a year or so) there was an article in one of the modeling mags about how to make a "slurry" by chopping up pieces of sprue and mixing with testors liquid cement until a semi-liquid is obtained. This foul sounding substance is supposedly good for small crack filling and is better that crack-filling CA stuff and cheeper to.
My questions are:
a) has anyone tried this stuff and wtih any success
b) if so what is the general receipe
I have an abundance of sprue chunks and a few bottles of cement and would love to give this a try.
If any one can help i'd appreciate it.

Thanks eh;

ron

Ron,
I used it solved in acethone, but it was so dangerous for the plastic model that i quit it....
Maybe you lucky than me, advice: try in a jjunk model before you use it on your latest masterpiece

Ron,

I have tried it with a fair amount of succes. I didn't used chopped piece but the dust/particles left after sanding a piece of plastic (I collect dust LOL). I used liquid glue and ethylacetate to dissolve it. Works good and you can spread it like putty. You have to work quite fast though as it dries quickly. Adding a little lacquerthinner will slow the drying time, but don't add too much. Let it dry for a long time, at least a week. After that you can sand and scribe it like normal styrene! :-)
Good luck!

I tried this several times, with different solvents. I remember trying with cellulose thinner as well as TriChlorine Ethylene. Both solve the sprue plastic well. Of course, the finer it's cut / grated, the quicker/better it solves.
It works as a filler, but I think it has many disadvantages :

- the solvent can damage the kit it is applied to
- drying process is very slow. It takes several days before it's really hard
- I found it difficult to harness this substance : though you can apply it with a brush, it's hard to estimate the exact result.
- you can brush it on, but of course you have to clean your brush thoroughly or you end up with a solid plastic lump instead of hairs at the end !
- the whole room smells, and I'm sure this is not healthy...
- you can only apply thin layers at one time. Deep holes cannot be filled. Drying makes it shrink...

However, I discovered it very practical for at least one application : (re)modeling figures. Adding folds to uniforms, etc...

Good luck,

Jan

Jan,

I agree with you on nearly all issues. It is true, if applied too liberally it can damage the kit, but so can using too much glue... And indeed, filling deep gaps takes several applications ,as with nearly all fillers(be careful here for the aforementioned problem of damaging the kit by applying too much!!! ).
To alleviate some of the other problems you mentioned, I :
a. wear the respirator mask that I also use for airbrushing
b. use something disposable to apply/spread the "plastic" putty.
Also, the result is better if you use sprue from the same kit that you are building. The plastic will have the same chemical properties. To speed the drying process, there is not much that can be done, except maybe put the model near the heater in the room....
I like this type of filler especially when I have to correct a scribing mistake. Other fillers will not scribe the same as the plastic (putty is too brittle, cyano is too hard...).
HTH
:-)

Liquid plastic slurry has been done for about 20 years. I used to a long time ago. Chopped sprue into Testors liquid cement, smaller is better. Takes a bit of time of the plastic to dissolve. Worked OK, if you slopped - it was ugly. You can control the consistency by adding more or less plastic. Some of the other solvents attack the plastic too aggressively. That’s a PC way to say it dissolves and ruins the parts. The slurry was good for smaller gaps, where putty was almost too much. This is all pre ‘super glue’ days. I think I still have a bottle of it somewhere.

Dave