1st pic is camera shake, as well as being out of focus. second picture it is back focused (ie focusing on the background not the subject).
To fix:
1. Use a tripod.
2. You need to know how close your camera can focus, it will be in the instructions. You probably have a 'macro' setting (might look like a picture of a flower) this will help with focusing closer, but there is still a limit to how close you can get.
3. Use aperture mode or manual mode and set the aperture to the largest number (which is the smallest aperture and gives the best depth of field). I think you will find it is f8 on the cannon A series. The smaller the aperture (larger number) the less light is let through so you will need to use a longer shutter speed. Because of this you will need the tripod.
Depth of field also reduces the closer you get to the subject, which is why it is very important to use the smallest aperture you can. If you still canlt get all of the model in focus, try pulling back and framing the subject a little more losely. If you have the camera set to it's highest quality setting you can crop a little bit to make up for this.
I use lenses that can be stopped down to f45 for photographing things like tiny cracks in aircraft components, and a Nikon D1x, to get really sharp results out of an A85 you will have to work at it.
You also need to look at your lighting, if there is back lighting you will get flare, you need to light from above and behind the camera. Try shooting outside on a cloudy day, with the sun behind you. You can use a piece of white card to bounce light into the more shaded or under side of the model to help fill the shadows. Trust me, this simple reflector works very well, even with a full set of studio lights and many different types of reflectors, diffusers etc, often the best results are gained by the simplest methods. You can't go past one light source and a reflector. You can see the difference straight away, just by moving the peice of card closer or further from the model you will see what I mean.
