What do you all use to get stubborn decals to conform to intricate details? I've never used anything like microsol in the past and honestly don't know its purpose. Would it be applicable to something like I'm describing?

There are two items microsol and microset they both work to help adhere decals to bumpy surfaces. I personally have used both and don't find any difference between the two? Could just be me.

Here are some of my thoughts on decal installation
1. Before you start put down a good coat of gloss clear coat (nice smooth surface for the decals, reduces yellowing)
2. Put a bit of microsol/set on the model where the decal will go.
3. apply the decal - use a soft brush dipped in the micorsol/set to help push the decal into place
4. apply some microset/sol
5. apply a dull coat

If the decals are down and need more help. I get a new sharp pin or needle and gently tap the decal to put small pin holes in it (don't twist or flick the pin, straight up and down). Then I apply a nice generous coat of microsol/set. I let it dry and repeat until I'm happy or tired of doing it.
The holes allow the liquid to work under the decal and let it sofen again and ease into the grooves.

Micro-Sol is exactly the stuff you want-it's designed for the purpose you state. Micro-Set is also good for applications where the decal doesn't have to conform as much.
Micro-Sol actually dissolves the carrier film a bit. You want to really be careful with it. Once you put it on, the decal with likely wrinkle up, and you'll think you've messed it up. Just be patient. As it dries, the decal will flatten back out. You may want to float a little more on trouble spots. the important thing is to not touch it, or prod it. Not only might it tear-I've actually have some (mainly RR decals) stretch at the slightest touch from a pointed brush.
After a few applications, the decal should be very snug. if not, the final step is to make tiny pinpoint holes in any bubbles that may remain, and reapply the Micro-Sol. At this point, if you're very careful, you can apply just a tiny amount to the trouble spot and press with a cloth. The rest of the decal should be set well enough so that it won't move or tear.

Hi,

Slodder is correct. Microsol is a decal softener. Just follow the steps that slodder indicated.

I am using Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Mark Softer.

Guys, I read in an old Fine Scale Modeler magazine that rubbing alcohol can act as a decal softener. Has anyone tried this?

Angela

Never tried it, but vinegar definitely does work.

You may want to try Walthers Solvaset as discribed in the link. It is stronger then microset , great for those tough spots with lots of "bumps & crevices". I bought a couple of bottles, and diluted one, so I have 1/4, 1/2 & full strength, covers all my needs.

Decals

How common is Micro-sol? Do most hobby stores carry it? Thanks for the help!

In Portugal, it is very common to find it in the "normal"(so to speak") hobby shops! In the other countries I don't know!
Cheers and happy modeling!
Prato

I have Micro sol and micro set and a couple of other brands

but the one I use thats tried and true is walter's solveset.....

got to love the stuff.....

Your right Delbert, it's great stuff. I think your the one that got me hooked on it. No more decal problems........well alot less anyway

I used to use that in the '70s on my model railroad cars I was relettering cheapass Lfe-like hoppers into SCL cars. It was indeed good. They also made some stuff called DDV-decal dulling varnish, which was absolutely the best stuff ever for eliminating decal film. I have not seen it in years. Do you know if they still make it?

not to drift too far off subject, but where can i find some 11th armored cav decals 1/35?

hopefully with 2nd sqdn insignia

reb

All I have ever used is Solvaset. I find that with this stuff, there hasn't been any reason to try another brand. Works every time. But, it too wrinkles the decal as it works, be patient and it will flatten out.

Patrick

18 bravo.. did a websearch on yahoo for Decal DDV-decal dulling and found several websites selling it..

I've been warned in another forum about using decal solvent on Tamiya decals, to test it out first. Tamiya has recently started using cartograf decals with their 1/24 scale kits. For instance I have a reissued 1/24 scale Nissan R89C sports car that has them (and it didn't originally) and they are even mentioned on the box. I'm unsure if the decals in my 787B (the kit that is causing me issues) are cartograf though I suspect they are as the decals are imprevious to light (very thick) and extremly brilliant color-wise. So, does anyone have any experience with decal solvent on Tamiya car model kits?