Could anybody tell me are there very many more differences between the M 34, & the M 35 besides the single rears on the M 34, and Duals on the M 35
What are any of the other features that really show, if any.
Thank you a head of time
Kerry
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M 34 & M 35 differences ?
straightedge
Member Since: January 18, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 12:26 AM UTC
animal
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 01:20 AM UTC
Besides the wheels and cargo bed, they were straight gas engine. They had the engineers front grill and headlights. They did not have the connectors from the differentials to add power to a towed vehicle. 
straightedge
Member Since: January 18, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 03:21 AM UTC
Does that mean the 35's had a mix on the engines or the 35's were strictly diesel, which that is under the hood, and hid, and the connector to run another vehicle, that isn't very visible either, pretty hard to tell, it might not work in a contest, but it would do just fine on my self, if I can change it over.
The main thing I was going after, I apologize for not being very clear, I was more interested on the body features, as far as the air cleaners, grill headlights hood windshield, exhaust, anything that shows up on the cab part, something that is permanent on this M 34 Revell model to why it couldn't convert over to a M 35 with a little work.
See I don't need 100% correct, I just need it to look like the M 35 series if I could, this is just a thought, it all depend on what all I got to change, whether I do it or not.
The main thing I was going after, I apologize for not being very clear, I was more interested on the body features, as far as the air cleaners, grill headlights hood windshield, exhaust, anything that shows up on the cab part, something that is permanent on this M 34 Revell model to why it couldn't convert over to a M 35 with a little work.
See I don't need 100% correct, I just need it to look like the M 35 series if I could, this is just a thought, it all depend on what all I got to change, whether I do it or not.
HeavyArty
Member Since: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 03:40 AM UTC
The main differences are in the bed. The M34 bed was lower, that is why the wheel wells were cut out. There is another frame rail that raises the M35 bed to clear the wheels. The M35 bed is straight, w/o the wheel well cut out.
You can see it in the pics below:
M34
M35A2 (With newer turn signal/marker lights, and exhaust stack coming up through right front fender. M35A1 had older style marker lights and muffler running along right frame rail and exiting between dual rear wheels.)
The cab is basically the same. You can see the height differance in the bed over fuel tank. The headlight setup was different too. High headlights ion M35, low on M34.
If you are looking to build an M35, the AFV Clib kit would be a better choice. It is highly detailed and builds up great. Much better than converting the old Revell kit.
You can see it in the pics below:
M34
M35A2 (With newer turn signal/marker lights, and exhaust stack coming up through right front fender. M35A1 had older style marker lights and muffler running along right frame rail and exiting between dual rear wheels.)
The cab is basically the same. You can see the height differance in the bed over fuel tank. The headlight setup was different too. High headlights ion M35, low on M34.
If you are looking to build an M35, the AFV Clib kit would be a better choice. It is highly detailed and builds up great. Much better than converting the old Revell kit.
animal
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 05:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Does that mean the 35's had a mix on the engines or the 35's were strictly diesel, which that is under the hood, and hid, and the connector to run another vehicle, that isn't very visible either, pretty hard to tell, it might not work in a contest, but it would do just fine on my self, if I can change it over.
The main thing I was going after, I apologize for not being very clear, I was more interested on the body features, as far as the air cleaners, grill headlights hood windshield, exhaust, anything that shows up on the cab part, something that is permanent on this M 34 Revell model to why it couldn't convert over to a M 35 with a little work.
See I don't need 100% correct, I just need it to look like the M 35 series if I could, this is just a thought, it all depend on what all I got to change, whether I do it or not.
The M 35 were gas and the M 35A1's were multi fuel, ran on anything with a alcohol base, gas diesel, or even rubbing alcohol. The M 35A2 and newer were Diesel only. The M 34 was gas only. There is no air cleaner cover externally on the 34 and the exhaust ran on the right side of the vehicle along the bottom of the right chassis rail and came out between the right rear duals like on the M 35 and M35A1 series. Also what Gino has said is also true.
There was one version of the M 35 that had the Engineers grill configuration with the headlights on the bottom. The Gun Truck Terry's Terrible Roach Coach was an example of the Engineers version.
Sabot
Member Since: December 18, 2001
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Posted: Saturday, April 23, 2005 - 05:45 AM UTC
M35A2 were multifuel as well. We started with diesel, but in the late 80s converted everything over to JP8.
I also remember one of our oldest M35A2 trucks being referred to as a "dirty air engine" and once that engine went bad they upgraded it to a clean air engine.
I also remember one of our oldest M35A2 trucks being referred to as a "dirty air engine" and once that engine went bad they upgraded it to a clean air engine.
straightedge
Member Since: January 18, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2005 - 12:00 AM UTC
Thank you very much Dave, and Gino, that give me enough information for my needs, I really wasn't interested in the bed anyway, mostly the cab, and frame, and most of them usually have the hood, or bonnet, as Cliff would say, molded shut don't they, so the engine you couldn't see if you wanted to, so the engine shouldn't be much of a problem.
Then the only ones I have looking at my models, just as long as it looks like it has an engine, they have no idea, what kind of engines they had, so that don't matter.
Kerry
Then the only ones I have looking at my models, just as long as it looks like it has an engine, they have no idea, what kind of engines they had, so that don't matter.
Kerry
HeavyArty
Member Since: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2005 - 03:37 AM UTC
Kerry,
You are correct on not being able to see the engines. Both the Revell M34 and AFV Club M35A2 have the hoods glued shut and do not come with engines. If I may ask, what are you planning on building with the M34 cab and frame?
You are correct on not being able to see the engines. Both the Revell M34 and AFV Club M35A2 have the hoods glued shut and do not come with engines. If I may ask, what are you planning on building with the M34 cab and frame?
straightedge
Member Since: January 18, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2005 - 10:47 PM UTC
I was thinking of just about anything you can make out of a 35, but with a lot cheaper starting base. Then I got a jeep to throw away to, or do whatever, cause that comes with it for 10 bucks.
HeavyArty
Member Since: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, April 25, 2005 - 05:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I was thinking of just about anything you can make out of a 35, but with a lot cheaper starting base. Then I got a jeep to throw away to, or do whatever, cause that comes with it for 10 bucks.
You get what you pay for. The Revell jeep in the set is bad too, not worth the hassle. If you are looking to build an M35 series truck, I still recommend the AFV Club model. It can be had for about $30 and is a much better kit. To convert the Revell M34, you would need to scratch the dual rear wheels and add a lot of pieces to correct the cab, front wheels are different on an M35 as well. Take a look at what Pedro has done in his M34 post. You have to do all that and then make the changes to the front end and wheel changes, etc to make it into an M35. If you want an M35A1, get the AFV Club Nancy Guntruck kit. It has all the pieces for a standard M35A1 truck included, also about $30. The AFV Club kits are much better, go with them and save yourself the headache.
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