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Just finished the kit. I've done preshading on this one and it went very well. The weathering made the kit look bad (shouldn't have weathered it).
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F-51D Mustang
shonen_red
Member Since: February 20, 2003
entire network: 5,762 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 - 06:54 PM UTC
BlackThor_06
Member Since: August 12, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 02:53 AM UTC
I can't really say much due to the quality of the images, but the weathering looks good; like a well-used warbird.
The oil streaks and the gunpowder stains are not that convincing, however...I don't think I can do any better that that though.
But still, its pretty good.
BT6
The oil streaks and the gunpowder stains are not that convincing, however...I don't think I can do any better that that though.
But still, its pretty good.
BT6
shonen_red
Member Since: February 20, 2003
entire network: 5,762 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 05:23 AM UTC
I guess I put too much "softening" to the pics kaya parang anlabo 
As for the weathering, yep, pumangit na Should have used powders. Well, I guess my AC modeling skill hasn't been that good... time to do some armor... :-) :-) :-)
As for the weathering, yep, pumangit na Should have used powders. Well, I guess my AC modeling skill hasn't been that good... time to do some armor... :-) :-) :-) 
LaTtEX
Member Since: May 13, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 04:48 PM UTC
What did you use for the weathering?
shonen_red
Member Since: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 05:03 PM UTC
Quoted Text
What did you use for the weathering?
Drybrushed black oils followed by drybrushed burnt sienna + black mix.
Beans
Member Since: February 04, 2005
entire network: 84 Posts
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Posted: Friday, April 29, 2005 - 06:19 PM UTC
Looks ok to me Shonen,
BigMan
Member Since: December 04, 2003
entire network: 34 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 01:58 PM UTC
Hi SR,
Pretty nice build!
When drybrushing using oil paints (especially when drybrushing black soot over very light colored surface, like silver), you may want to make the brush 'extra dry' first before applying. Then drybrush very lightly and build up the 'soot' until you get the desired effect.
HTH
Pretty nice build!
When drybrushing using oil paints (especially when drybrushing black soot over very light colored surface, like silver), you may want to make the brush 'extra dry' first before applying. Then drybrush very lightly and build up the 'soot' until you get the desired effect.
HTH
shonen_red
Member Since: February 20, 2003
entire network: 5,762 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,610 Posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 06:03 AM UTC
Thanks Bigman! 
4-Eyes71
Member Since: December 02, 2003
entire network: 424 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 08:03 PM UTC
Hi, Shonen:
Is your scheme like this?
Is your scheme like this?
mondo
Member Since: July 04, 2003
entire network: 1,036 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 12:48 AM UTC
Who makes this kit? I found some Hasegawa and Tamiya here but it is eihter C or B.
I found and bought 3 testors F5 with PAF decals though and saw a T33 by Hasegawa. Mabili na mamaya.
I found and bought 3 testors F5 with PAF decals though and saw a T33 by Hasegawa.
Mabili na mamaya. 
shonen_red
Member Since: February 20, 2003
entire network: 5,762 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 06:36 PM UTC
4eyes, dapat yung scheme ko yung may nose art ng parang shark ata. Too bad the decals broke down, eh tapos na yung paint scheme for that. Ayun, I dropped off the animal nose decal and proceeded on.
Mondo, it's the Tamiya 1/48 one. Pretty good kit. May review dito sa Armorama if you checked it a bit
Mondo, it's the Tamiya 1/48 one. Pretty good kit. May review dito sa Armorama if you checked it a bit
mondo
Member Since: July 04, 2003
entire network: 1,036 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2005 - 07:47 PM UTC
Kasi P51-C and D lang nakikita ko dito sa LHS namin.
Nabili ko na yung Hasegawa na T33A Shootingstar. Ewan ko lang kung yun talaga ang tamang version ng PAF.
I bought it also since there's just 3 left. Sorry 2 now.
I also saw a Fuji/Beech T3 by Hasegawa. It says in the literature that it is a re-engined T34 Mentor. I was wondering if it is still valid to use this as a "mentor" version. Their is no external difference I can find between the 2 versions.
Sa mga flyboys diyan. 2long naman.
Nabili ko na yung Hasegawa na T33A Shootingstar. Ewan ko lang kung yun talaga ang tamang version ng PAF.
I bought it also since there's just 3 left. Sorry 2 now.
I also saw a Fuji/Beech T3 by Hasegawa. It says in the literature that it is a re-engined T34 Mentor. I was wondering if it is still valid to use this as a "mentor" version. Their is no external difference I can find between the 2 versions.
Sa mga flyboys diyan. 2long naman.
4-Eyes71
Member Since: December 02, 2003
entire network: 424 Posts
KitMaker Network: 376 Posts
Posted: Sunday, May 08, 2005 - 02:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Who makes this kit? I found some Hasegawa and Tamiya here but it is eihter C or B.
I found and bought 3 testors F5 with PAF decals though and saw a T33 by Hasegawa.
The Mustang we made is from Tamiya.
archerwin
Member Since: January 05, 2004
entire network: 106 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 12, 2005 - 05:34 PM UTC
to add to bigman's suggestion... you can use Tamiya Smoke and airbrush it to your model. it's pretty convincing...
another one is using pastel poweders... (kagaya ng sabi mo)... mas safe gamitin and madili pang burahin.
another one is using pastel poweders... (kagaya ng sabi mo)... mas safe gamitin and madili pang burahin.
Quoted Text
Hi SR,
Pretty nice build!
When drybrushing using oil paints (especially when drybrushing black soot over very light colored surface, like silver), you may want to make the brush 'extra dry' first before applying. Then drybrush very lightly and build up the 'soot' until you get the desired effect.
HTH
jepot
Member Since: December 01, 2003
entire network: 37 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, May 22, 2005 - 10:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Kasi P51-C and D lang nakikita ko dito sa LHS namin.
Nabili ko na yung Hasegawa na T33A Shootingstar. Ewan ko lang kung yun talaga ang tamang version ng PAF.
I bought it also since there's just 3 left. Sorry 2 now.
I also saw a Fuji/Beech T3 by Hasegawa. It says in the literature that it is a re-engined T34 Mentor. I was wondering if it is still valid to use this as a "mentor" version. Their is no external difference I can find between the 2 versions.
Sa mga flyboys diyan. 2long naman.
Mondo,
the T33A is correct- you can also try making it onto an RT 33A, minor lang ang gross difference.
F51D by Tamiya is still the most appropriate for a PAF Mustang me thinks.
Your F5 needs the " coke bottle" drop tanks avaialble in UK many years ago to make it an appropriate PAF F5A.
Hobby craft T33 in 48th is also a good kit for a T33 ( than the Testors one).
F8? Hasegawa in 48th, Academy in 72; but dont forget the rudder blister...
S211? Nothing but the Planet models kit
Islander- Hands down the Airfix kit ( if you could get one)
Im not quite sure of the Beech as for a T 34 mentor- ill compare my kits for any differences..
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