I would like to share with all Shermanaholics,my Sherman indy track link tool.
It is made from easily available Plastruct and/ or Evergreen sheet plastic and other
bits.
I found it hard to assemble DML sherman tracks,and be confident,that all the chevrons
would be facing the correct directions.

The basic design is a sliding upper section which applies pressure to the individual links as
they are loaded in,with the chevrons towards the modeler.



These are some of the Hob-Bits parts I used to make mine adjustable,and easier to lock in place with the links in it.You can do it with out,just use clothespins.

Tthe bottom plate,4" long by 3" deep.I used .080" thick styrene sheet.I drilled and tapped it for a 2-56 screw.




This is how the first piece of channel is attached to the base. The "flat" is towards the modeler,this is for support of the next piece.


This is how the next piece is butted back to back with the first.Later,the track with an end connector will be able to fit under this edge.



Here I have the main pieces for the top sliding part which clamps the track blocks to the back part.



This is how the upper channel is glued,right to the edge of the moveable plate.The edge on this supplies clamping action.



And here is a usable unit,having clothespins to hold the top onto the bottom,I prefer to add 2 screws and washers for better clamping action.



I drilled 2 holes,then elongated them,to create slots to allow the top section to slide towards the lower.Thus clamping the track blocks in place.



To assemble track,first put links in the jig,with the chevrons facing you,
so you can see they are aimed the same way.The first group will have its Pins pointing up,ready for end connectors.


Using tweezers to hold the end connector,apply a drop of glue on the area where the track pin will go.


And place the end connector on the pins.



After you have built enough to go along the ground contact length,slide the section carefully out .Then flip it so the chevrons still face you,but now the last pair of uncovered track pins are facing up.
Attach end connectors as before.
The final assembly can be slid out of the jig,and allowed to dry on a flat surface.
To do the upper run,calculate the length needed,and make it in 2 sections.
The last bit would be to make short runs from the roadwheels to the idler and the sprocket.

I have made 2 of these,and anyone willing to try one,drop me a PM,then If you like it,share it with another Shermanaholic.!

Mmhmm

Verie nicie article Lord Long List I may have to try this out (++)

Very cool Carl............IF I ever do indy's I will give it a go.

Brilliant!
I'm doing a Dragon Firefly and the tracks are killing me!
I've got an M4a1 waiting to go but those tracks ... I think I'll have to try your device.
MC

Total time to do the 2 sides of a regular length Sherman,about 2 hours.I did it in stages,to give sub assemblies like the top and bottom time to dry.
The important operating feature,is to load the blocks in,with the chevrons facing the modeler.And then snug the top plate against the back plate to keep them secure.That is why I designed mine with the screws for tightening.

!!!

Yeah total time .
But,don't for get you must clip the blocks and end connectors off the sprues.
Then on DML track, there are 2 nubbies to sand off.But, the actual assembly is fast,once you have a pile of cleaned parts waiting to go. (++) (++)

Do you mean the fixing pins at the end of each tread?
Also, how do you manage the bits around the sprockets?
MC

no you don't- I've just printed out your instructions and seen that the pins are still there. So...
what are nubbies?!!

NUBBIES
Nubbies are(to me) the little bits left after cutting a part fron the sprue.On these track,there are 2 taht would be between the track blocks.To insure they fit next to each other,the "nubbies " must be sanded down.It's quite Zen like actually. (++) (++)

LOL!!! :-)