Hello Everyone:
I'm wondering how I would apply decals over a crack or space, like on a wooden box. Do I try to push the decal into the slot or do I slice along the slot after the decal is dry? I'm thinking the later is proabably more realistic, but I'm looking for the way that works the best.

Thanks
Bruce

i use solveset by walthers.. it softens the decal and when it dries the decal hugs into every little spare and over detail making it look like its painted on.. some times more than 1 application is required.. and never touch or try to move the decal after using solveset on it...

Thanks Delbert:
I have to give it a try. ( I hate decals )

I used to hate decals too because I wasn't very good with them then I went and did a Nascar now they are not so bad..

this pic is a little off topic but it illistrates the point.



here is a pic of that nascar.. look at the Plus on the hood and see how the decal snugs into the lines of the hood.. this is a great example of the power of Solveset. :-)

That's some great inspiration!
Is that one of those high speed tanks, I heard about? Strictly reconnaissance of course.

BTW I ordered 3 bottles

Use some sort of setting solution as recommended. MicroSol and Microset are two more tyoes from MicriScale. When they are good and dry, lay a wash down in the cracks to emphasize the space. Maybe. If the original is painted or stenciled on, this applies. If it's a label, you want continuity of the decal. For example of Earnheardt's car above (hey, his is the only NASCAR number I know so I gotta show off! :-) ), if the 3 on the roof goes over those spolier thingies that pop up in a spin, you'd want to emphasize the panel line, so you'd want to lay a wash in there. Likewise if it were a car with doors and a decal for the patter over the door.

Thanks Al, I guess my main problem is no one around here sell ANY brand of "decal solution" (very frustrating), any way I have some on order and should be able to carry on in a week or so.

Bruce