Could anybody tell me if one of these will go slow enough to drill. Cause the way supply and demand is going, it will be a long time before I can afford the big ticket item like the big Dremel, with the foot controller, for high torque, with very few rpms.

Even the single speed after you buy the foot controller, and everything you need, if you throw in another 60 bucks, you could have a real tool, the big Dremel. I've already compared the prices both ways. The big one comes in a complete kit with everything you need for $ 220, and the little one after you buy everything needed to make it work at slow speeds, is about $170

They start out making it sound cheap, to buy the small one, but by the time you get done, cause nothing is included with the small one, but I only looked in one place for that big one, so there even might be better prices then that, for the complete kit, but no matter I still can't afford it in the near future.

But with the big tool you can do everything. I forget the HP now, but I think it is around 1/3 HP with all ball bearing 29" shafts. To where you can take it after wood carving, and other things needing more power.
Kerry

See I got a real old Dremel, like #2, and back then they were considered toys, the tools weren't no good, they have improved their quality by leaps and bounds, and mine can only hold the chucks made for it, it would scar up drill bits, and no way to get accessories.

I've bought off brands in bigger tools like you said in a short time the switch would go, and no place to return, and with my luck. I bought 2 harbor freight air wrenches, and the both of them came apart on the first use, and I mean the first use, course this was years ago.

But a friend of mine orders from them all the time, and says he has the best luck, but wouldn't you know the 2 I buy are total junk.

But I though the battery ones went slower then that, I guess I would haft to check into a battery screwdriver maybe, with a chuck to hold drill bits. Something not to go over 60 dollar range.

Cause these bits went through real easy with just my fingers, so it won't need much help.

Kerry I have a battery type Dremel tool here and I never use it as I am forever replacing batteries.

It is not a Dremel Brand and I am not sure who's it is But I would not bother again myself.

So all my stuff is done by Hand.

Cliff I was wondering about that other post where the guys were saying if they had the choice, they would take the battery over the electric, but I don't know, cause I don't have one, I'm not a big fan of battery, like you said, it doesn't last long, I only have a 1/2" battery drill that is battery, and I can only do tiny jobs with it.

The only thing I plan on making a replica of my brother in laws race car trailer, which is 48' long, fifth wheel trailer with pop rivets on both sides top to bottom, side, to side, just like my trailer, cause it is all aluminum, of course the truck and car to. but that trailer will kill me on all the drilling.

Cause I'll probably do it in 1/24 0r 1/25 depending what I get the Mack in, then the rest I got to scratch, and I'll haft to drill for every pop rivet, which will be a million almost, or at least seem that way.

Kerry why do you need to drill out for the rivits. I use grandt line and I cut the whole sharft off the head itself and pick them up with a toothpick with a tiny amount of saliva on it, place them and then add glue.

So I suggest maybe doing the same with your trailer.

Kerry-'Roo's Idea is the way to go if the rivets ar not structural. Alternatively, go to any sewing store & get yourself a foot controller to plug your dremel into. Many of them nowadays have AC outletsto connect to, or just nip off the end of the connector & install an outlet from an extension cord. Shouldn't cost more than $15 all told. At a used appliance place you may even find one cheaper.

Kerry - I was one who stated I prefer the battery over the electric Dremel - but in the context of scale modeling. I wouldn't use it for what you're intending, however.

Like Cliff said, I too don't actually drill holes with my battery-powered Dremel. I use my fingers twisting the bit for better control. The battery-powered Dremel, for me, comes in handy for cleaning up large resin parts more than anything else.

And, I only find I need to recharge my battery approximately once every 8 weeks - I must have gotten a very good battery that holds a charge...

Gunnie

Check out this review i did.....
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/327

The Joys of the Micro Mark catalog!!!!

Dremel is a far better tool than it use to be, as it is now made by Bosch Tools. You can also get a chuck for a Dremel it's about $9 US ... part number 4486
Here is their blurb on it.
"The Dremel Chuck allows you to quickly and easily change accessory bits on Dremel rotary tools without changing collets. It will accept all accessory bits with 1/32" to 1/8" shanks. Use with rotary tool models 275, 285, 395, 398, 750, 770, and 780. Also use with Dremel attachments 212, 225, 575, and 961."

I have one of these and they work great holding the smallest of drill bits. Yes Micro Mart is a great store, but they are very proud of their stuff most if it can be otten elsewhere a lot cheaper.

Dave

but for the lower speeds, this is a nice option...... the dremel (when drilling without a extra speed control) tends to melt plastic......

Before I had bought these bolts from Grandt Line, I had extensive e-mails plus, I even talked to them on the phone several times, and everyone that I talked to on the phone told me them sprue's are there for a reason, to not cut them off, that not only do they help line it up, but also help hold it in place.

To always remember not to cut that piece, to drill a hole to put the bolt heads or rivets on, that they do much better this way, and when you think about it, even though it does seem time consuming, it does make a lot of sense.

That on down the road you won't have a model having bolts, and rivets falling off with the slightest touch, if you go to move that model to clean it.
Kerry

Kerry I have never had that problem. I use Tamiya super thin glue when doing plastic to plastic and if a mistake is made I have to use force to cut the rivit off again. Zap CA glue does the rest and once again I have had no problems with them coming off.

Was it modelers that use them or the model shop supplying them that said you must never cut the shaft off as it is better to drill a hole?

Below is a picture of a deck I did in June last year. It still looks the same today sitting in a box waiting for the truck to be finished. Now all these rivits and bolt heads were done without the shaft being left on. They are still ALL on. I do not have to replace any and this has been handled a lot as well. You must make sure the brass is clean before glueing anything to it as normal though.



cheers
Cliff

I know on a lot of things Cliff, they never come undone like you said, but this model this guy give me here at Armorama, it had a lot of things glued on, and some of them I tried to even cut some off, so I wouldn't lose them, cause I had to handle the model extensively to measure it, to make blue prints of it.

Well the parts, that wouldn't come off, I figured they would be safe, they would stay on. Well a couple days later, just a slight touch this time, and that piece, that no matter how hard I tried to remove it just short of damaging it, and wouldn't come off before.

Well now it did, and I ended up losing some of the real tiny pieces that way, at one time they will seem secure as can be, then the next time you go to touch it, they won't be, it might be the humidity in the air, I don't know.

My cars were the same way using regular glue that melts the plastic, I had some that had just crystallized, then other parts on that very same car are just as secure as the day I done it.

Tell me why that is, and we both will be rich, but that model that guy give me he had used super glue, cause it was resin on the body. He had tried to take the one gun shield off to ship it to me, and that was how it ended up all smashed beyond use, because it was pop aluminum, and he put a big gouge in the resin to get it off.

But when you don't expect it, them pieces fell off, and I lost some, I found some, but lost a few, and them shafts would be an extra safety feature like Grandt line told me.

They said for lining up, and holding, but I was the one who figured on down the road after handling them, to how easy pop rivets will fall off, if you don't have them glued just perfect, and pushed hard to melt them into the other plastic, them rods will be extra help on holding them in place.

Say if it did come unglued, and you got that rod behind it, then it will remain there until you can fix it, instead of it flying off somewhere, to who knows where.

I don't know how you got models, that never had pieces come off from handling, cause like I said even that one that guy sent me that model of his, the more I handled it, the more the pieces kept coming off, and I was handling it with kid gloves, trying to be just as careful as I could.

It just seemed like which day, cause one day nothing could come off, then the next day, I couldn't keep anything on, pieces were coming off left and right.
So I'll just feel safer with the shaft, I don't blame you if you have good luck without, then stick with it, but I never was one with good luck, I want to do it like Grandt line says to do it.

Another-thing I noticed about your model, all your pop rivets are on the inside, which is a little safer and most likely not to be touched when handled by someone, when I make this fifth-wheel trailer, all the pop rivets will be on the outside where you pick it up to move it to wash around it.

Kerry