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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
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Getting Primer to Stick to PE Parts
sniper
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New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 02:15 AM UTC

Just used some of Tamiya's spray can primer on a model with lots of PE add-ons. I dont think the primer has stuck to the PE. A bit scraped off when I checked quickly this morning.

I have used regualr auto primers in the past but wanted to try the Tamiya because it doesn't seem as thick and wont cover up as much surface detail.

Anyone else use the Tamiya primer on PE?

Steve
shiryon
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 04:32 AM UTC
I don't usually prime any metal parts just spray them the sdame as the rest of the model. But they do need to be treated like a plastic kit and washed in soapy water and left to dry for 24hrs. On larger parts I somtimes rough the surgace with a sanding stick. I like Tamiyas's stuff but it can be finicky.

Josh Weingarten
aKa shiryon
dencoarty12
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 05:26 AM UTC
Clean..clean and clean again. Body oil will compromise your finish and may cause the brass to oxidize, even under your paint. Scott
Oberst
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 06:44 AM UTC
I have not used Tamiysa primer but I recently primed a Panther that had a lot of metal on it (fully brass etched, metal exhausts, metal tracks, gun barrel) and found that the best primer to use is from Floquil applied with an airbrush. It adheres well to the metal and the airbrush allows for precise and even coats.
Hope this helps,
Andrew
ladymodelbuilder
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 09:22 AM UTC
Hi Sniper,
A friend of mine told me to soak the PE in a mixture of water and vinegar. He said the vinegar will help the paint to stick to the metal better.....HTH
screamingeagle
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 11:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I have not used Tamiysa primer but I recently primed a Panther that had a lot of metal on it (fully brass etched, metal exhausts, metal tracks, gun barrel) and found that the best primer to use is from Floquil applied with an airbrush. It adheres well to the metal and the airbrush allows for precise and even coats.
Hope this helps,
Andrew


Exactly !
I also use Floquils Railroad Colors Primer ( enamel ).
Like Andrew say's, for PE, I also find it best applied with an airbrush ....
....... in 2 or 3 thinned coat's.
Also before priming make sure you wash & rinse the PE after you handled it through the
assembly process, to rid it of your skin oil's. .............I actually wash the PE twice - when I first open the package to clean it of it's manufacturing oil's/residue, and again after attached to the model, previous to priming.
Penny's advise is also a good method to use for washing PE.

- ralph
sniper
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 12:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Sniper,
A friend of mine told me to soak the PE in a mixture of water and vinegar. He said the vinegar will help the paint to stick to the metal better.....HTH


Penny,

I did the vinegar wash and then a soap and water wash too. I'm going to let it keep drying until tomorrow and see how well it adhered.

Thanks for all the tips.

Steve
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
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Posted: Monday, September 09, 2002 - 06:55 PM UTC
Okay I just use a lite gray enamel as the primer shot on real thin to check for glue errors or sanding errors, but after talking to a bunch of local people it is not required. But the time to do it is not that long so what the heck.
Tiger101
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Posted: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 - 09:42 AM UTC
I also use Floquils Figure primer in light grey or white after washing the parts. I've never had a problem with paint enamel or acrylic afterwards. Just be very careful with the fumes. Take all of the precautions that you would use with enamel paints.
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