Hello all,

I am going to start the clean up work on a couple models tonight. I heard somewhere that people are using white out, the stuff you correct errors with on paper, to fill gaps. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried it to see how well it works. I may just try it out, but if someone else has already I would like to learn from their experience. If you have, how well does it work, particularly when painted?

It works well on all types of Ejector Pin and shallow sink marks. It does shrink slightly as it dries in my experience - so I try to make one dab do it for me. It disappears underneath painting like any other putty you've sanded beforehand.

Gunnie

I've tried it and have had good success with it. The key is in the application IMHO. You have to put a little extra to compensate for drying/shrinkage. It sands easily and can be cleaned up with a damp rag before it dries.

Thanks guys, I will give it a try. Seems a lot easier than putty to me and it dries much faster. I have some at work that comes with a spung applicator instead of a brush that gets all gunked up so I will give that a try. I may also pick up one of those new whiteout pens they have and let everyone know how it works out. Thanks for the help!

I use the brand that comes in the small black bottle with the brush applicator. I use either the brush applicator (big seams) or a toothpick. The toothpick works great for filling ejector pin marks or sink holes.

I use white out (with brush) for thin gaps and narrow depressions. For larger gaps, I use putty. For HUGE gaps, I fill with card and use putty or white out depending on what is left. I have been satisfied with the results.
capnjock

Great tip thanks. I will give it a try.

yes but very small, coats on Mr Sufacer sanded LOL
with Alcohol!
Also Milliputt!!
Ron

hi

i have not tried that material, but what i use is

super glue & backing powder quick & easy,
Milliyputty but i i need to fill some thing then carve it i use milly putty with plasticine 50/50 it sets like milliy putty but is easy to carve,

hope this helps ossie

Howdy all,

I thought I'd chime in on this subject since I just recently did a bit of experimenting with different 'shallow' fillers.

I have used regular White-Out straight out of the small bottle it comes in and had decent results with it. I found it easy to work with, but at the same time a little hard to avoid it cracking a bit (this was on a piece of Italeri plastic which just for the record was a bit brittle and a tad thin.
I also tried thinned Milliput and was also happy with the results. But, I felt that this type of filler would be better suited to deeper depressions and/or situations.
Lastly I tried a slow-acting CA glue mixed with a bit of talcum powder and discovered I was most happy with it's results. Reason being, the CA glue/powder mix had almost undiscernable (sp?) shrinkage, and the powder mixed in gave me a very clear picture of precisely where and how much of the stuff I had applied. Additionally, the concoction dried to a sandable consistency within just a very few minutes allowing me the ability to add more or work on another part of the overall project.

just my Farthing's worth.

hth.
Tread.

R-E-M-E .
Hi,my solution as above----Roll in plastecine,-
Extrude(smooth),-Mould if needed,-Encase in super-glue. This I find is ok for large out of sight caverns,but for joins I use the old sprue-melt-----off-cuts in liquid glue-have had a bottle on bench for years. As for "white -stuff"-have used layers of tipex on "sink- holes"--effective. Little thin gaps-drop in a sliver of plstic rod-slightly larger and work it wth liquid poly, -file toshape. On moulded areas I use plastecine or an "air -clay" finished to size and coated with glue-super or other to seal. Worked for me for eons . Any way if idoes the job why worry-remember- MODELLERS MAKE MODELS FOR ENJOYMENT NOT FOR RIVET COUNTERS Take care out there BARV.