Hello,

I'm starting out. Been real careful when applying cement but I sometimes seem to get it on the model (doing a T34/85). What's the best way to remove the cement that now mars the model, if at all?

Also, I have files, etc. but the extra plastic when I cut off a piece from the mold just doesn't seem to leave in total !! How do I avoid that?

:-) :-)

Thanks!
Andy

Andy,

much depends on the material you work with.

If it's a polystyrene plastic kit, most glues do not really stick themselves: they temporary MELT the part of your kit where the paint is applied, and that bonds the pieces together.
Glue stains (or some other chemicals) are not really a stain : the plastic's affected.
When this is a flat piece, you can sand away teh worst parts with really fine sandpaper. The paint hides most of the damage. Parts that include detail, are much more difficult to clean.

With resin, it's different. The (cyano-acrylate or super-) glue is added on top of the resin, and it is the glue that sticks, not the resin. It dries quite quickly and hardens. The principle is the same ; try to sand it with very fine sandpaper.

However, years of absolute misery with that same problem have taught me the best solution : don't use glue to liberally !


Here's a nice hint for all under the title "how to remove glue from MY FINGERS".
Like you know, Cyano glue is hard to remove from your fingers. I used to get a product that's labeled "zap debonder" that does this quite well, and aceton helps a bit, too.
But recently I discovered by accident an easy way to do it : use sandpaper ! Coarse paper works even better than fine (not a joke !).
This sounds painful, but it is not. Wait till the paint is fully dry and hard. Then, gently rub it with the sandpaper. Since the skin is soft, it gives away to the sandpaper. The much harder glue is removed. I place a piece of coarse sandpaper on the table, and gently move my finger over it, all the way from one end to the other. Repeat till all is removed.
This trick does not apply to fingernails, though - since they are scratched by the sandpaper. Even with real fine sandpaper, your nails get dull. Best thing is to leave it on : you'll lose the paint after a few days anyway.

Andy,
First thing, there is no such thing as a stupid question.

It sounds like you are using the Testors tube glue. Two things you can do. #1-squeeze a little bit onto a piece of waxpaper or scrap of plastic-use a toothpick to apply the glue-do not use the tube to put glue on the part. The glue will end up all over everything. #2 - get either Testors liquid cement or Tamiya Extra Thin cement. You will need a fine (000) brush for the Testors.

Files are great, but sometimes too narrow for cleaning off parts. Go to your local drugstore, look in the nail care section and see if they have nail finishing files. They are usually multicolored or with designs on the. They are foam cored approx 3/4" x 6" to 7" long. They should have a different grit on each side. When you get it home, cut in half. Lasts a long time and great for cleaning off the sprue points, and you won't file a notch in your part trying to clean it up.

One way to check that you have cleaned everything up is to run you fingernail over the edge. If you can't feel anything, it is clean.
Hope this helps and that I haven't confused you
Welcome to the wonderful world of plastic, and don't be afraid to ask a question. Any of the guys here are more than willing to answer.

Damn, I tend to get long-winded!

No questions are stupid. But if you don't believe that you can read a lot of the ones I ask and it will make you feal much smarter . I just started up again with modeling myself. I had the same problem and what helped me the most was this. Throw any tubes of glue (the metal tubes) you have away. I could never control how much glue came out of them.

I now mostly use super glue (cyano-acrylate) on whatever I build because I like the speed it dries. If you do try out super glue follow the no tube rule because you will have the same problem. Hobby stores carry it in handy bottles where you can see how much is coming out and control the flow. I also discovered a product that you can spray on it and it hardens instantly. It is real handy and you can find it in the hobby shop with the super glue. I did pick up some tamiya thin cement in a glass bottle that someone recomended in another post, I will try it out soon for puting large parts together.

Try using the Testors Model Master glue. It comes in a weird shaped black plastic bottle with a thin metal tube applicator. The applicator makes it easy to put just enough glue where you need it. It cost's about $5 a bottle, but you can assemble a lot of kits with it.

Thanks for the thoughts. I have some of the tools people mention. I'm using tamiya cement.

Andy

Andy, get the small pack of Testors sanding films (about $2-3). When the glue is dry, use the orange one to tone down the excess glue. Once it is fairly gone, switch to the tan one to rub out the scratches. Then use the red one to polish out the plastic. You can use these sanding films either wet or dry, try them both to see what works best for your predictament.


Get a good set of clippers to remove the part from the sprue (see the Modeler's Toolbox article). Trim the excess tab off with an X-Acto knife and use the sanding films to smooth out the tab.

Hey Porshe,
Welcome to modeling. One thing to remember is "Take your time". Alot of beginners want to hurry up and get it finished. In this hobby you ALWAYS are learning something new every day.

I use several kinds of glue. I agree, though that you should use the liquid Testors glue to start out. tube glue has its place, too, but not for most kits.

Others are Zap-a-gap and other Zap products, types of superglue,
Tenax, which is a plastic welder.
Elmers glue.

All of these have uses as you get into other media and after market stuff..

I still have to remind myself to slow down and take my time as I work.. or I end up doing dumb stuff...

Have fun, that is that main thing!

one problem new peple have is they want to hurry up and get it done.
dot get in a big hurry
you will find you will get better as time moves on dont rush it,just have fun with it

I use liquid glue from microscale (Micro Weld) sold by Squadron http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=my0006
It costs only $1.96 plus shipping. I use a 000 brush to aplly and it follows the seams to form a stron bond