does anyone know how to create rust on models. i am building Tamiya's 37mm anti tank gun (PAK36).

I use Rustall. Easy to use. Look here.

Patrick

I use a reed/brown colour, humbrol 67 i think, before it is completly cured i stipple on some ground up pastel chalks - dark brown, umbra etc. - to get that flaky rough surface.

U can see pictures in my gallery of my T34 showing the results of that metode, here is a sample:

try to read this also


https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/39193&page=1

Lots of different methods. One of my favs is the old steel wool in water, let it rust and strain trick!. Sometimes you just can't beat the real thing!

I have heard pigments work well.

cheers

Philip

I have used life color washes for subtle rust effects. I first paint the surface brown (I use quite dark ones), then I drybrush the part with steel or with a suitable dark metallic. The I take the life color and scoop the deposited pigment from the bottom of the paint container. After a generous wash of rust I finish the effect by drybrushing with steel or a something even brighter metal color.
The final effect will look something like this:

I use the steel wool/water, too. If you still want to use paint, mix in some cigarette ash to get the flake effect. Also, a little bit of fine sand will give you the pitted look.

Art

Hi!
There are several ways for success:

# pigments with dull varnish
# two component chemical liquids
# oil colour
# steel wool
...
look out also for this article:
http://www.panzermodellbau.com/en_tip_rust.html

I just recently found a product called Sophisticated Finishes. It is made by a company called Modern Options.It comes in differing sized bottles and allows you to replicate different finishes on craft projects etc. One of the finishes is a rust effect. It consists of two small bottles. One contains Iron Metallic Surfacer, and the other contains the Antiquing Solution. The Metallic bottle is just that. Extremely fine iron powder in a fluid of some sort. You apply this to your surface and let dry. Then apply the Antiquing Solution over it. After awhile, instant rust. The longer you let it set, the stronger the effect. Looks awesome when it is all said and done. I found mine at an art supply store. Hope this helps. "Q"

I use either heavily diluted Model Master rust paint, Rustall or a product called Instant Rust (pictures available at www.discountmodels.com) depending on what effect and what it is that I want to rust. Instant Rust is a lot like what Red4 described and works really well for mufflers and exhausts sincie it has a lot of texture as well as good color.

I'm not that much skilled yet with painting and weathering but i can make good things now it seems.

I used Humbrol 62 matt leather mixed with some white and sandcolor (Hb 94)
it gives a nice rusty color, not too dark, its really nice, I like it,

for more darker heave rusted parts I also use Rust (Hb 113), it darker and don't use it too much, I also got Antique bronze (Hb 171), it also gives a rusty look. But I prefer the first color combination mixed with the second for a different shades of rust. It works well.

wow Jan that ia GREAT paint job~
Ron

The disadvantage to using Rustall is it's high alcohol content. It will strip away most acrylic paint jobs.

hey ive been using an ink from a company called citidael colours or paints they are a fantasy wargames company. it is very easy to use and creates a nice wash over metalics or any colour and dries to a rust finish. i have used it in most of my dios. i highly recomend it!
Graeme

I had that problem too - you can solve it by giving it a gloss cover before applying Rustall

Another way to get it to settle down well on the model and to really stick is to brush on a paste of your pastel colors of choice to the location you want. Once that's done and dried a bit, take a brush that's been dipped in oil paint thinner (using Daler Browney low oder thinner here from Wal-Mart) and again spread the mixture around. I did that on my M41 and I liked the way it really settled down on the mufflers:



I was also able to go over the edges with a graphite stick to give it some more of a worn look without pushing any of the pastels away. That photo doesn't show it well but it did work. It was one of those 'what the hell, let me try this' routines. lol

Somebody posted this link on IPMS Stockholm recently. Might be useful .... a short explanation on several methods, but the effects are first class.
The Weathering Doctor

For the rust on this Pak I used MIG pigments (P025 Standard Rust & P024 Light Rust) and Burnt Sienna oil paint.

First I painted the Pak as normal, including wash & dry brush. Then I dry brushed it with the Burnt sienna, then very lightly and using a soft brush with the standard rust and then even more lightly with the light rust. This gave a smooth "sheen" of surface rust. I decided I wanted more rust than that and so mixed a very thick, dry paste of the paint and the pigments. basically this should be so thisck that it's a "cake" of dry pigment, even thicker than a paste: the pigment should be so dry that it only just holds together.

Then just smear it on... and don't touch it again! :-)

Hey Travis

I have a tip on my website how to make rust. Very simple zero cost looks as real as it can get and really easy to do.
linkname

You can check it out if you want to. The picture there shows the difference of a painted piece of track and non painted.

Cheers Roel

Nice rust work on the gun. Great to see those allied tanks overcoming those "bad guys"

Frank Blanton




"Cher has more plastic in her butt than a DML Karl kit"