Yep, I'm returning to the hobby as some of you may already know but I still have some more questions that I'd like to have others opinions about.

So, I've decieded to stick with my enamels over acrylics and will probably look into getting some liquid cement to compliment my current tube of glue.

But damn was gluing the fuselage of my P-40B hard, at some points I needed to sand down some of the seams cause the glue had popped up and dried a bit due to me needing to relocate my attention to the other areas of the fuselage for pressure on gluing.

Now, is there an easier way to apply glue? Maybe like using a brush of some sort or what? There must be some tricks of the trade you guys know to make this process a little easier.

Also, I'd like to know when should I sand and when shouldn't I sand. I'm kind of hesitant but I am learning that sanding really shouldn't be done on the main body unless necessary. So, should I have not sanded down the seams?

Hi
What kind of glue are you using?

AS I am just returning too, and I have found that Proweld or other chemical type glues work well. They "melt" the plastic together. It is easiest to use by holding the pieces to be glued together and then brushing the seam and letting it wick in. DON'T TOUCH IT ... or you'll end up with a plastic finger print in your model. (Which can be "painted" out with the Proweld.

There are a number of companies that make this stuff under a number of diffirunt names.

Later
Dave

Yes, I use normal Testors glue at the moment, its your regular tube of plastic glue with some tips.

I'm also looking at probably getting some of the liquid cement they make as I hear it take a bit longer to dry but has a better lasting effect?

if it popped out id say its because you aplied to much... dont forget that soem glue were the pins are shoudl be good enought, if not, you can aply soem with a tooth pic so prevent if from "popping out"

id consider buying tamiya ulta fine liqued glue, work a lot better than testors.. and its worth the 7 dollars

Frank

I don't know what other folks think put that Testor Tube Glue is evil you take the cap off and it comes out on it's own.

The stuff I use is Ambroid Proweld you can get it at hobby Lobby for $3.00 it dry in seconds some make sure you fit is the way you want it before putting it on.

I've never used the Tamiya Glue that 3442 spoke of but I'll have a look-see at it.

Here is a pic of it from Hobbylinc.com



Later
Dave

Oh yeah. that Testors crap I have is very stubborn it lieks to come out and dry up and totally screw things over.

I'll take a look at the Tamiya glue first and then probably upgrade to the Proweld once I feel comfortable with my modeling skills.

Also, what about my questions about sanding?

Depending on how much glue you've got sticking out, I'd use a Xacto Knife to trim it off it it's not that bad I'd sand it with a fine grit sand paper like 220 or higher.

Testor makes a brush cement like Proweld but it drys slower and it to is about $2-3 and can be had at Hobby Lobby.

It's the only Hobby shop I have within 50 miles so I have to go with what they have unless I order it online.

Later
Dave

Most hardware store will have sandpaper up to 400-600 grit but the only place I've found higher grits are automotive stores where you can get 800, 1200, and higher.

Yeah I know on that Testor stuff in the tube, just never liked it much, only use when I have nothing else handy.

Just don't for get to put the lid back on the Proweld or it will magicly disappear. LOL

and Right Hobby Shops are high on sandpaper.

I only use the tube glue on interior joints where precision is not neccesary. I use liquid glue on all exterior parts. For piece that require strength (you Sherman fans know how weak some of the rear idler axles can be) I use CA aka super glue.

If you use a very thin solvent plastic welder like Tenax 7R (which works like Ambroid Proweld mentioned above) you can apply it with a very thin capillary applicator (both sold at micromark.com). This should give you the best control and is least likely to create a mess around the parts that you want glued together.

Cheers, Richard

Well I just got done adding the prop nose and the rear-tail wings to my P-40 and man... I must say this is the WORST glue ever.

The tips for it are just useless, they clog very often, the smallest pin I had around me was a tack. Didn't work well at all. After a while though the glue was just so frustrating to use that it wound up everywhere, it leaked out at one point where it dribbled onto my shorts and my glasstop desk.

Even still I am a bit unsatisfied with the way some of these pieces fit. The prop nose is a bit deviated and doesnt exactly fit flush with the rest of the fuselage nor the machine gun pods. While I was frustrating with the nose, one of the exhaust pipe sets decided it was time to fall out. Beautiful I exclaimed! :-)

Oh well, you live and learn I suppose. I'm definitely going to look into some new glue when I get around to buying the Tamiya Bf109 E-4/7 Trop.

Whoa, this Tenax 7R stuff sounds just about right... bbtoys how would you rate your experience with this stuff?

I have been using Revell contacta (liquid glue) for many years, and would be hard pressed to try something else. It comes in the little blue bottles with a needle like applicator. Just close the bottle between applications as the glue will dry and clogg the needle, but if that happens you can easily clear it with a sowing pin or something.
I'm off to the shop today to get a new bottle of CA glue, as I knocked my old one over last night .

Henk

Once you're over the age of 10, a modeler should look to use liquid cement. In the states, there are several brands/types that are readily available.

As mentioned before, Ambroid ProWeld is good stuff and not expensive. Tenax 7 is another good type of cement but a small bottle costs as much as a large bottle of ProWeld.

Testors liquid cement is great and cheap. I always have a bottle of it at the ready. I use it to add non-slip coating to the tops of modern vehicles as well as to add texture to cast metal areas by a process called "strippling".

My personal favorite is Tamiya Extra Fine. Comes in a small squat square bottle with a fine brush in the lid.

To prevent spilling of the round bottles that Ambroid, Testors or Tenax uses, I've used a small block of wood and drilled a hole in it with a circular drill saw. Once I've cut the proper sized hole for the bottle to fit, I drill a small hole in one of the corners of the block. I use that small hole to keep my fine point paint brush that I use to apply the cement.

I use revell contacta professional and humbrol precision poly. they have a little needle and are excellent for glueing tiny pieces. the only problem is that it takes quite long to dry if you are glueing large pieces and it can leave finger prints.

cheers

Philip

I use both Tenex and Testors liquid cemenets depending on how fast and how visable the joiny will be. The tenex is my favorite - but it evaporates very quickly and the fumes are toxic.

Hmm, thanks for all the suggestions guys, I think I might just take a look into some of the Testors liquid cement and some of the Tamiya Extra Fine stuff Sabot mentioned. Then maybe when I feel I'm comfortable enough I may move up to some ProWeld or Tenax-7R.

Also don't forget about my sanding questions! It's hard for my to figure out where and when I should sand, I have been coming across alot of issues with the glue and rough spots and seams and have just been sanding down for a smooth transition. The hard part is trying to sand down without sanding down the small rivet details in the resin.

Hi Barget,

Sounds like others have answered your Tenax7R question.

For sanding around details you might consider masking off those no-go areas with masking tape, just in case, leaving only those spots that you are working on in the clear. This would avoid or minimize accidents .

Cheers, Richard

Ah, good ol masking tape... now, time to find my roll of blue painters masking tape somewhere.

I use humbrol precision poly in the bottle with the little brush. This is my number one. If Im cementing smaller pieces I have a fine brush handy to paint on the cement using this. I also use model master thin cement. After glueing and/or filling and sanding, I brush the area lightly with this. This hides a lot of the roughness. Its not much good as a fixing cement, but when awkward parts need fixing, I tack-cement using the humbrol and then let the model master run in the seem. The combination of both is my best alternative!

All of the answers above, will work fine as explained, but every modeller picks, what works best for them. trying out some of the recommendations wont hurt. You´ll soon see the advantage of each!

Hey Barget

For glue I also use the Humbrol Precision Poly. It melts the plastic, and dries fairly quick. If the needle on the bottle of the glue gets clogged, i just light the needle on fire and it cleans out all of the glue, and the needle cools of fast afterwards too.
For sandpaper I buy a pack of 2000 grit with 5 strips at wal-mart's automotive section for about $2.50 cdn

Rob