When looking through the workbench section of the armor/afv section i noticed how almost everyone seems to paint the tank in alot of nutural colors like black white and grey. basicly i was wondering why this step is taken.
also i would like any other advice on anything else that might make for a better finished product(drybrushing, blackwash, weathering etc.) anything you think i should know
thanks

Gray is used a a primer. The tank is painted in a neutral gray color so the final color will have a uniform appearance.

Black is used in a technique called pre-shading. When the tank is pre-shaded in black, the crevices and recessed lines stay black when the final color coat is painted. It gives the paint scheme some depth. Dark brown is also used for vehicles that get painted in shades of tan or sand.

Search the features category at the left to see some articles on painting and weathering.

Armorall, there are so many differing techniques for finishing tanks that a small book could be written on the subject. I think the best thing that a modeler can do, is not to stick to one method, but experiment with different ones to find what suits your taste best. Personnaly I prime my tank then lay in my colors. Once the base colors are on, I will add my decals so they are included in the weathering process. I dont pre shade anything as I think it takes more paint to cover the black than I care to apply. I post shade after all my colors have been laid in. It is just a very thin mixture of black and brown that is sprayed along the panel lines and around storage boxes etc. To further bring out the recessed details, I apply a gloss coat and a wash, either in selected areas over overall, depending on the look that I am trying to achieve. A flat coat is then applied. Once this has been accomplished, I then mix lighter shades of the colors used and lightly spray these over them to bring out a faded appearance. As you can see, this is just one method of many. You might check out some books by guys like Tony Greenland, or Shep Paine for other methods of weathering. I think the biggest factor is just to experiment and see what works best for you. HTH "Q"

hmmm... why use priming? wont the primer colour be totally covered by the base coat? So why prime?

i heard people prime is because: base paint will stick better, paint chipping will show the primer. Any more reasons?

sorry if this sound like a dumb question

The only time I prime is when using resin, Pe, plastic card, extras. This isto give the paint some grip to pe and resin, but also to start with a uniform colour. When kit bashing, a lot of different colour plastics can be used and then when stowage and AM stuff is used, there could be 10 plus colours. Its better using 1 primer than lots of coats of more expensive paint to cover.

red4,say i don't own an airbrush.is it possible to create some of these details with an old fashioned bush? also are there any basic things that can be done with a brush besides dry-brushing???

red4,say i don't own an airbrush.is it possible to create some of these details with an old fashioned bush? also are there any basic things that can be done with a brush besides dry-brushing???

Armorall, it would take some effort but it could be done. An easy example would be a one color sherman. OD Green. While you couldn't get the post shading you can still darken the recesses using just a paint brush.
1. Prime the tank if you like.
2. Using a rattle can, paint your tank and let dry
3. Apply a gloss coat, also from a rattle can,. let dry
4. Apply decals, let dry.
5. Seal decals with an additional coat of gloss.

Now that all this is done, you are ready to apply some washes. The gloss coat helps the washes flow better through capillary action. Mix up some oil paint (Like artists use..in a tube) of the following colors, Raw Umber, and Black. You want these to be very very thinned down. Think of tinted thinner as opposed to thinned paint. Using your brush, soak up a little of this wash and touch it to a panel line. Watch how it flows from your brush and follows the line. Continue until you have this wash applied to the areas needed, which is basiclly all the panel lines, fuel caps, rivets, bolt heads etc. This wash will help define the recessed contours of your tank. If you have any goofs or runs, simply wipe them up with a Q-tip and start again. The gloss coat allows you to do this. Once all your wash is applied, let it dry. Ensure you let the washes flow over your decals as well, but dont saturate them.

1. Once washes are dry apply a flat coat...rattle can as well, and let dry
2. Now you can work on lightening some areas of the tank. Usually a good candidate are the upper surfaces that catch a lot of sun light. Using pastel chalks of a slightly lighter shade of your tank, grind some up on a piece of sandpaper. I usually use a dark yellow mixed with a little green. Very rarely will I use white. Just too stark for my taste.
3. Try to keep the dust out of the recesses. You want to highlight the flat/ upper surfaces.
You may have to apply them a little heavier than if you were using an airbrush as when you seal them, again using a rattle can, they can have a tendancy to dis-appear.
4. Once the pastels are sealed, you can drybrush the raised details, ie. bolt heads, grab handle, rivets, etc to pop them out as well. I use oils for this as well. A little bit of white goes a long long way. Dark Yellow is also a good color for this. I test it on my hand before I hit the tank with it. If I can barely see any paint on the skin texture of my left thumb knuckle, its usually ready to dry brush with. I know this is down and dirty and I hope I didnt lose you. Hope it helps you out. I may try and do an articel on just such a question. "How to achieve good results without the aide of an airbrush". What do you think? Good luck on your build? "Q"

Red4, well your right about this being confusing, but it sounds like it will help. i think an article on this with a couple of diagrams would be a great idea. however if i was going to buy an airbrush, could anyone suggest a good brand. i would like to know if anyone knows if those testors arosol airburshes are any good.

Armorall, I woiuld suggest buying the best you can afford. You should be able to get into a Paasche "H" or a Badger 150 Double action for less than $100. That would be a small kit including the brush, airhose, paint cups and maybe a small can of propellant as well. The Badger 150 is nice as it can be used as a single or double action brush. It has a set screw that allows you to pre-set your needle for a precise line. I have a couple of these and they are a nice brush. What ever brush you decide on, the key to it working properly is good maintenence. Keep it clean an it will last a long, long time. The Paasche "H" is a stand alone single action brush. Very inexpensive and a good starter brush as well. I suggest you visit a wen site that would have reviews on it to get the lo-down on each. You might try "bearair.com". I think that is the site. Or do a google search for a simular site. Good luck. "Q"

I agree that an airbrush is a great investment. although i was lucky to have one left over from my parent's renovations, I know that I rather would use it then a spray can. A good compressor and a decent airbrush will save you alot of money, because you will be able to spray with any color you have, and to produce many effects, instead of buying seperate cans for each color, besides their being limited in variety.
However, I agree that primer is rarely needed. Usually a paint job on a model will look the same either way. Many models are molded in their most usualy used color.

Armorall -
I'm trying to expand my techniques in the "washes and weathering" areas as I continue planning my project for the "Battle of the Bulge" Campaign. Thanks for getting this subject going and providing more opportunities for us still learning types. A special thanks to Sabot, Plasticbattle, and especially Red4 as this has been an outstanding explanation/summary and a great deal of help. This is why this site is so fantastic.


As an aside to Red4, where abouts in Colorado? I was stationed in Colorado Springs, Cheyenne Mtn working at NORAD when in Air Force.

Blade48mrd

Blade, I'm in the Springs. Just retired from the Army after almost 22 years. I can see NORAD from my back deck. "Q"

I use black to make a 'blank canvas' then I use the other colors to bring it to life. Aztek 470 and CO2 tank works for me.
capnjock

armorall i have noticed the samethigns you have on the workbench, i too am beginer and i am still looking for tips

nick

thanks alot for all the help realy sorry about taking so long to thank you guys for the tips. as far as my own tips i can say i know any thing past basic blackwashing and drybrushing. however i have been experimenting with aluminum foil and i think it makes a good cancas looking cover for trucks boxes and anything else that needs covering (when painted) and is alot more manageable then tissue paper. ill try and put up some pictures of places i have used this. im very new to this website and was wondering whats with the ranks and how do you get them.
-thanks for the help,
armorall

Armorall, the rank issue is based on the number of posts you put up throughout the site. As you post more and more your rank will go up. Youcan choose what your rank will be, officer or enlisted and also what country I believe. I see waaaaaayyy too many officers on here!!! LOL Hope this clears things up for you. "Q"