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Another casting question
ekaufman
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Haifa, Israel
Member Since: June 17, 2002
entire network: 217 Posts
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:00 AM UTC
I wanted to make a copy of a gun barrel from a kit part,so i made a one piece mold of it.
then i poured the resin inside from the top, the end result was very poor. (warped and bubly)
would it be better to use a two piece mold for this kind of stuff or it's hoplees to try duplicating such a kit part.?
TUGA
#034
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Setubal, Portugal
Member Since: April 26, 2002
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:25 AM UTC
Hi.

If it's a long piece perhaps it's better a two piece mold or perhaps use some small chimneys to let the air out.

HTH
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Member Since: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 09:33 AM UTC
Without muzzle brake should be all right on one piece mold, with muzzle brake two piece. Don't know why it came out bad it is a real tiny one like say a 20MM or along those lines. Resin barrels are hard to pour anyway this is why not to many make resin barrel unless they are big barrels like hummel and nashorn. Most are Metal.
GeneralFailure
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European Union
Member Since: February 15, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 05:33 AM UTC

You may be tempted to place the original in the mold VERTICALLY, so you can poor the resin from the back end and have a smooth barrel.
That probably won't work, unless you do have a vacuum machine. No matter what you try, there will always be air bubbles and warping...
Without vacuum, I would suggest you make a HORIZONTAL copy of the barrel. To achieve this, you place a piece of rod (square is the easiest) on the bottom of a container. Next, you add a very thin piece of plasticard strip on top of the rod. Both the rod and the strip should be the same length as your barrel. Finally, glue the gun barrel on top of the plastic strip, also lengthwise. Seen from the tip of the barrel, the whole construction should look like this :

o (gun barrel)
! (plastic strip)
O (piece of rod)
_ (container bottom)


Now you poor the silicone over it, covering the whole construction.
Once hard, remove the original. Turn upside down and poor resin.
The advantage of this form is that you can "help" the resin reach every little corner of your barrel without leaving air bubbles. You can help this proces by moving the soft side of a pin (head) forward and back inside the barrel while the resin is still liquid. Because of the strip that was glued to the barrel, you can hold the mold "open" to poor the liquid and to scrape out the air bubbles. Once hardened, let the barrel inside for at least an hour till the resin is very hard. That way, it won't warp so much. Now remove the barrel. Because of this procedure, the strip will result in a flash along the whole lenght of the barrel. You can remove this flash with an x-acto and sanding paper.
That should do the trick.

If at first you don't succeed.... try Armorama !

Jan
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 08:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text


You may be tempted to place the original in the mold VERTICALLY, so you can poor the resin from the back end and have a smooth barrel.
That probably won't work, unless you do have a vacuum machine. No matter what you try, there will always be air bubbles and warping...
Without vacuum, I would suggest you make a HORIZONTAL copy of the barrel. To achieve this, you place a piece of rod (square is the easiest) on the bottom of a container. Next, you add a very thin piece of plasticard strip on top of the rod. Both the rod and the strip should be the same length as your barrel. Finally, glue the gun barrel on top of the plastic strip, also lengthwise. Seen from the tip of the barrel, the whole construction should look like this :

o (gun barrel)
! (plastic strip)
O (piece of rod)
_ (container bottom)


Now you poor the silicone over it, covering the whole construction.
Once hard, remove the original. Turn upside down and poor resin.
The advantage of this form is that you can "help" the resin reach every little corner of your barrel without leaving air bubbles. You can help this proces by moving the soft side of a pin (head) forward and back inside the barrel while the resin is still liquid. Because of the strip that was glued to the barrel, you can hold the mold "open" to poor the liquid and to scrape out the air bubbles. Once hardened, let the barrel inside for at least an hour till the resin is very hard. That way, it won't warp so much. Now remove the barrel. Because of this procedure, the strip will result in a flash along the whole lenght of the barrel. You can remove this flash with an x-acto and sanding paper.
That should do the trick.

If at first you don't succeed.... try Armorama !

Jan



I like your way Jan but question on say a stepped barrel like a Tiger 1. Would there not be a lot of clean up involed in maintaining the right shape of barrel?
GeneralFailure
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Posted: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 03:53 AM UTC
Jeff,
I don't know what you mean by a stepped barrel, but no matter how you want to solve this puzzle : pooring the barrel vertically will always leave you with air bubbles, and removing the barrel will always be a huge pain in the **** (neck ?) .My guess is it is worth a try, and of course make sure the barrel is fied to the strip at its least visible angle (under side of barrel).
If you have any better ideas, I'm eager to discuss them and try them out !
Jan
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