I just purchased my first set of verlinden figures. What is the tool / method to use to cut the figure from it's sprue. The first time I used anything resin was from Custom Dioramics for farm tools, and it took a while to free the pieces loose.
Brent

I recently got my first resin kit and I used a razor saw attachment for the X-Acto from a company called Zona. Since it attaches to the knife, you don't need to spend extra on a different tool. Works great and for just a couple of bucks you get 5 blades.

Here is a web site so you can see what I'm talking about.
Go down to the bottom of the page, blade #13
http://www.nscalesupply.com/zon/ZON-Knives.html

I forgot to mention, after I remove most of the sprue, I use a hobby knife, files and sand paper to remove anything that is not a part of the piece.

Depending upon the size of the block I have used a razor saw or my moto-tool with sander. It's tedious in either case, but beats busting up key parts

I use all of the above, depending on the size of the block. If its a thin piece to small parts I score it with a knife until it seperates. Heavier parts need a saw blade or my dremel.
In all cases, dont try to cut into the detail. Stay out a bit and then shave off with your hobby knife and file/sand the rest. This is one of the reasons Im not a fan of resin.

Be careful with the resin dust, it's really toxic and bad for the lungs.

I use a dust mask and wet sand with the sheet of wet/dry sandpaper taped to a sheet of glass. I often put the glass sheet directly into the sink and dribble water onto from the faucet as I work. The glass ensures I get a flat surface.

When I use the motor tool to remove large pour blocks, I put the shop vac (with extra fine filter) hose into the bench vise and grind just above the intake for the hose.
Just in case I get clumsy and dremel my fingers or just drop the part, I cover the opening of the hose with a piece of window screen. That way, anything I drop stays out of the vaccum.

Mike

I use a low power Dremel wannabee that is easy to handle; it slices, it dices and it was cheap! Plus it sands nicely! :-)

PS: I second MLD; "Always use a dust mask!"

I use a dust mask too but I have some conserns about it. When I use it, I can still smell the resin - does this mean I'm enhaling the dust? Should I get a better respirator like this?

How bad is the resin dust????

Anyone?

It is real bad in large doses because of the chemical ingriediants. How ever I do not use a mask but am careful not to get my face to close to it. I also tidy up the area and wash my hands after every session. When sanding I tend to have a metal dish of water to keep my sandpaper from clogging and the dust down.

Hi Paul

When cutting resin, or fibrous materials (MDF etc…), always work in a well-ventilated room (if the smell is that significant your aren’t). Always use a mask / respirator that suites your requirements (I usually use one better than spec) i.e. read the instructions.

The point is it’s your lungs!

Depending on the size, I use a sharp hobby knife, or a electronics cutter, or a sand disc at my rotatory tool. About the dust problem I agree with the others, it's necessary to use a mask