Ola People

Here finally is the third sheet out of the Illustrated Beginners Encyclopedia (IBE) I had this one in line for quite some time but I never managed to get the drawings correct this evening after reading the post of Sgirty I thought I would finally try to get it on digital paper... Well here it is:


I hope people can use this technique. When I tried it the first time I was sold. by far the best technique I ever used with the Indy links

Hi. Sounds like a good plan, as I've tried just about every other way. Patience is also a key here. Ha! Sometimes this is kind of in short supply for me, depending on how my idiot brains are working that day.

And even through I already have the white-metal tracks on the way for the T-34/85 UTZ 1944 model from Dragon, I'll give this method a shot just to see if I can do anything with it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

(Personally, once a person has done a set of Fruil track links for their model it does tend to kind of spoil them for anything else.) Love to see some of the major kit makers start putting flexible track links in their kits, and I think one day this will come to pass, as the link--to-link glueable units are just a step in this eventual direction.

Thanks and take care, sgirty

I use a simular method but without the clamps and angle stock. I double over a piece of tape and lay a straight edge across the top of the tape. The links are half on the tape and half off. I use Testor liquid glue (Water like with the built in brush in the cap) as it dries fairly slow, Once the links have dried for a fair amount of time, usually 5-10 minutes, I peel up the run of links I have been working on and lay them down where they go. I alway do the bottom run first, followed by the front and back sections that join the top and bottom runs, sprockets and idlers. I then let those set for a good amount of time while I work on building the top run. Once the top run is complete, I lay it where it needs to go and connect it at both ends and then leave to dry over night. I have a jig for a few different vehicles. They consist of the lower hull and the running gear. I can use this to pre-assemble the tracks and set them aside for drying while I work on the remainder of the tank. I really comes in handy as it lets me determine exactly how many links I am going to need to build the tracks. Once they are dry, I pop them off of the jigs running gear and they are ready to install on the actual model. I hate getting a model almost completely done and then having to deal with the tracks to complete it. I usually get the tracks knocked out first thing and this is where the jig comes in handy. Just another thought to throw into the pot. HTH "Q"

Does it also work on the edges? I mean on the idler wheels?

Ola People

Thanks for the replies.

Sgirty I would definately give it a try. with this method you can add the links with almost half an hour for each side of the tank.

Red4
The Angle Stock is only there for having the Tracks line up in a nice and good straight line. And the clamps help you having your hands free when working on the tracks. wich works a lot better.

Shonen
This works on the whole track, From Idler to Sprocket. Since the section of tracks is stuck on the tape you can bend it Around idlers and sprockets. Preferable is that you start on a sprocket and then work your way around.

oi robert I didn't reply sooner then this because it had no use till I tried it. and that is what I did I took out my sherman tracks and went at it in the way you discribed it.

it worked like a charm! thanks for the great tip you already tried to tell me how to do it. but seen it drawn out worked!

I shall be making my tracks this way from now on.

one question how did you solve the problem when you have the trackpins on the side?

I just first did one side then turn around and do the other wich worked great

Ola

Juul great show you tried it best way to learn it.




What I usually do when tracks consist of more parts I do the bigger parts first and then add the additional parts later sometimes on the model sometimes when it is still on the tape.

Faust, I realize that the angle stock is a guide. The straight edge I lay across the tape does the same thing, only no clamps and my hands are still free as well. Good tip though. Thanks for posting as I'm sure lots of folks can use the info. "Q"