I tried using miliput to cover inperfections etc I rolled it very thin but I had a hell of time getting it off my fingers onto themodel. It would stick to me but not the model. Any suggestions?

After you've mixed up the Milliput, leave it on a tray/pallet/old piece of plasticard, and wash the residue off your hands. Use an old knife or similar to just pick off a piece and transfer it to the model, smooth it out and leave to dry. If you need to use larger sheets of milliput then use a couple of pieces of plastic ( I use offcuts left after scratchbuilding attempts) to lift it into place, then use wetted fingers to press into position.

I just went through figuring this out. I got the basics from the Features section on welding with milliputt and modified them a bit.
I got the best results mixing the putty on waxpaper with no water. Once mixed, let it sit for about 15 minutes. If you need to roll it, use a cd case cover covered with waxpaper and roll it out on a board covered with waxpaper. It takes a while to roll, because you have to keep using different parts of the waxpaper as it will start to stick a little after a few rolls. When you apply it to the model first moisten the area to be applied with a brush and water. Lay the rolled putty on the seam or area. Moisten the putty and area. Then use a tool to shape the putty. I use the back of a brush handle for corners and a metal seam scraper. The key is to keep the tools wet while you work.
Sorry for the huge post, I hope it helps.

Testors makes a countor putty which similar but ,is squeezed out of tube (like the glue)

Yes, but like "Spot & Glaze" or Squadron putties, it is solvent based and shrinks as it dries. It really can't be used for thicker details or shape changes. I've also found it to be singlularly less effective as a solvent based putty than Squardon or even normal car-type spot & glaze putties.

Paul