...Rye Fields Kits don't give very good results when using Tamiya Ultra thin Adhesive, I am a returning modeller and absolutely love the product, it's so much better than products I grew up with. Has anybody had any bad experience of using the Tamiya adhesive with Rye Fields Kits? Watto.

Cheers Russ,your comments have clarified the differences between the two products. The Rye field kit is next up and the comments in the review I read had made me seek advice from people who would know,that's why I asked here. Thanks again. Watto

I actually have one of those 20 mule team kits. With the original instructions. Wonder if it's worth anything. One other thing you might run across is vinyl and not the flexible type used in rubber band style tracks. A certain company made sci-fi kits out of vinyl. I have a NOSTROMO from Alien made from the stuff. I've tested different glues on pieces of the flash and haven't found anything that gives a secure bond. Even newer types of epoxy don't work. Sometimes I wonder what the heck model manufactures were thinking.

We used a sticky, amber colored paper glue that came in a brown fluted bottle with an angled red rubber applicator, I can’t remember the brand

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We used a sticky, amber colored paper glue that came in a brown fluted bottle with an angled red rubber applicator, I can’t remember the brand

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That was likely LEPAGE MUCILAGE glue.

Cheers,

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I actually have one of those 20 mule team kits. With the original instructions. Wonder if it's worth anything. One other thing you might run across is vinyl and not the flexible type used in rubber band style tracks. A certain company made sci-fi kits out of vinyl. I have a NOSTROMO from Alien made from the stuff. I've tested different glues on pieces of the flash and haven't found anything that gives a secure bond. Even newer types of epoxy don't work. Sometimes I wonder what the heck model manufactures were thinking.

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You might try JB weld epoxy on the NOSTROMO, I’ve had success with it on SOME vinyl products. As for the 20 Mule Team model, I’ve occasionally seen one or two for sale at the Seattle IPMS annual shows over the years. They usually don’t go for much—$15-20 but I think you’d have better luck on EBay, especially if complete and in the box. Last one I saw at the show was in a box. Most modelers are painfully aware the plastic is difficult to glue. But as an antique, it will likely go for more. My Dad and I built one in the early 60s. We used a sticky, amber colored paper glue that came in a brown fluted bottle with an angled red rubber applicator, I can’t remember the brand, and don’t think it’s made anymore. Dad popped the rubber applicator off, and used a brush to dab on the glue. It actually worked for a while to hold the parts together, it must have been an acetate based glue. But after about five years, parts started to fall off. Of course, this was before cyanoacrylates, which would likely work today.
VR, Russ

When I was a kid, my Dad got a product that came in two separate tins, he mixed them and after about an hour had something that resembled a piece of hard rubber about 1 cm thick, he cut out a piece and used it to repair my school shoes. All was OK until I stood on the terraces at my local football ground, after about 20 minutes into the game, two or three of the people around me began to comment about a black sticky mass that was attaching it's self to their shoes and trousers, turns out that the two part rubber had reverted back to its two parts as I was jostled around the packed terrace! When I got home there was absolutely no sign of the repair on my shoe.... I know this is off topic but, it's made me smile and I thought I should share.

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I actually have one of those 20 mule team kits. With the original instructions. Wonder if it's worth anything. One other thing you might run across is vinyl and not the flexible type used in rubber band style tracks. A certain company made sci-fi kits out of vinyl. I have a NOSTROMO from Alien made from the stuff. I've tested different glues on pieces of the flash and haven't found anything that gives a secure bond. Even newer types of epoxy don't work. Sometimes I wonder what the heck model manufactures were thinking.

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You might try JB weld epoxy on the NOSTROMO, I’ve had success with it on SOME vinyl products. As for the 20 Mule Team model, I’ve occasionally seen one or two for sale at the Seattle IPMS annual shows over the years. They usually don’t go for much—$15-20 but I think you’d have better luck on EBay, especially if complete and in the box. Last one I saw at the show was in a box. Most modelers are painfully aware the plastic is difficult to glue. But as an antique, it will likely go for more. My Dad and I built one in the early 60s. We used a sticky, amber colored paper glue that came in a brown fluted bottle with an angled red rubber applicator, I can’t remember the brand, and don’t think it’s made anymore. Dad popped the rubber applicator off, and used a brush to dab on the glue. It actually worked for a while to hold the parts together, it must have been an acetate based glue. But after about five years, parts started to fall off. Of course, this was before cyanoacrylates, which would likely work today.
VR, Russ

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I tried GorillaWeld epoxy and it didn't hold. I'll get some JB Weld next time I head to town. I never could understand the use of vinyl for models. The large pieces, the various hulls and sponsons have concave surfaces. I'm been thinking of ways to make them flat and the best way I can think of will include sheets of brass cut to fit the insides of the pieces and then using struts to push them apart to level the surfaces and filling the remaining space with expanding foam so they don't revert back to concave. However that stuff produces some heat so I'm danged if I do, danged if I don't.