I use slower drying glue when I have something large to stick together like two fuselage halves. I've been using faller expert but am having my doubts about it. I've had a couple of aircraft split along the top of the fuselage well into the build. And I had another incident where the glue never seemed to set. I've had mostly good luck with the stuff, but am wondering what else I might explore....

I just got turned on to the Tamiya cement with the orange cap,worked well for me,slower then the green cap Extra Thin

I went the other way, fast drying solvents.
Instead of a smearing slow drying glue on the joint and then tryign to get everything lined up I use capillary action to draw solvent into a joint that is already closed. By doing it this way I can dry fit and adjust until everything is lined up and then add a small droplet of solvent to the edge of the joint, preferably from the inside but the outside works too. Capillary action will draw the solvent into the joint. If the joint is nice and tight it can glue the whole joint in one go, if needed I add a small droplet further along the joint.
Small worn out paintbrushes are used to carry the droplet of solvent to the joint.
I use ethyl acetate (can sometimes be found in acetone free nail polish removers, just make sure it is oil free). I got a 2 gallon container from a paint supply shop, it will last me a loooong time ...
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Ethyl-acetate

Micro Weld is a slow drying glue and I agree with Tojo72, Tamiya orange cap is very slow. It's almost a gel.

Like Robin, I prefer to use fast glue (Tamiya Extra thin or MEK), even for long joints that need adjustments, I glue them in sections.

For some pieces that I can not hold while applying the glue or need time to adjust, I like Revell Contacta.