After years of armour modelling, I decided to step back to Aircrafts for a couple of builts. Regarding the treatment of clear parts the following question came to mind: What should be done first. Application of Future and then masking and painting or the other way round?. Also how to fit plastic parts,like Instrument Panels to the clear parts. Should the clear parts also be treated with Future before panel fitment? And at least what kind of cement do you recommend for fitment of clear parts.
Many thanks for all your help

Harald,
It's been a while since I've done much with aircraft, but I generally apply future before I even take the clear parts off the sprue. For glue, I have used Testors clear part glue with good success, and i have been told some people even use future for gluing clear parts.

Plain old white glue works well. It can be used a filler as well, and cleans up very easily.

It really depends on what you’re building. I normally clearcoat by dipping the clear parts in a Future bath, even before removing them from the sprue. On the other hand, things like fuselage windows I like to carefully glue in place with a touch of Tamiya extra thin that’s wicked into the gap between the part and the fuselage, then I mask the inside and outside for painting. Yet again, I’ll assemble the model with a finished interior, and use Micro Scale’s Crystal Clear for attaching clear parts. It’s a bit more pliable than white glue, but it’s about the same thing. For the past 10 or so aircraft builds I’ve done, I no longer mask canopies, I airbrush clear decal paper in the color of the inside of the aircraft, then I paint the exterior color over that, when dry, I cut the decal into strips and apply to the canopy over the frames. It saves a lot of masking work, and since the canopy is already clear-coated with future, the strips conform and settle nicely, then I can overcoat them with either Future or alclad clear gloss. If it’s a flat finish, I just use a fine brush to brush a little flat coat along the canopy lines, but sometimes I don’t even bother with clear-coating the decal, I’ll just leave it the way it is. Hope this gives you some ideas.

I’m a shameless pusher of Paul Budzik’s Scale Model Workshop website. Paul deals with canopies in several different ways, here’s a link to his video on the subject:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9PPYEbwPRU

VR, Russ

I do the decal method as well, but I don't usually dip in future unless I've scratched the canopy.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/285679#2403580