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Decal silvering
MrchntMarine
Louisiana, United States
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Posted: Saturday, April 11, 2020 - 05:21 AM UTC
So what actually causes decal silvering? Is is a result of poor adhesion? Poor decal quality? Poor application? Combination of all of these?? So I recently applied a long decal to my M3 Stuart - USA on 1 end connected to tank number on the other side. While I did one panel with the whole decal intact, I noticed in the middle stretch of the decal where it might not set up as clear as I like. I had thought of cutting the decal to separate the USA from the number but decided against as I thought it would be ok and I liked the idea of not being uneven if I had cut and sepaartated the 2. However, when it looked like the middle portion would not clear up, I did cut the decal for the other side separating the number and USA. So we’ll see. What about the silvering? I’m applying over PFC gloss coat. Tks!
Scarred
Washington, United States
Member Since: March 11, 2016
entire network: 1,792 Posts
KitMaker Network: 482 Posts
Member Since: March 11, 2016
entire network: 1,792 Posts
KitMaker Network: 482 Posts
Posted: Saturday, April 11, 2020 - 06:16 AM UTC
Air trapped under the decal film. Flat paints have a rough texture that will trap tiny pockets of air when you put down your decal. You might not have put down a thick enough layer of gloss before placing your decals. I'll put down 2-3 light coats of Testor's Glosscote or 2 coats of Future before putting down decals. Then I'll use a setting solution like Micro-sol or Micro-set to help them settle. If I get silvering I'll put on more solution and see if that solves it. If I still have it I'll take a brand new #11 blade and put tiny holes where it's silvered, you don't have to push the blade it's weight will puncture film and the apply more solution that usually works the first time but on large decals it may take a couple tries. The holes disappear when it dries.
This method works for me, there are others out there and I hope they post too.
This method works for me, there are others out there and I hope they post too.
MrchntMarine
Louisiana, United States
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Posted: Saturday, April 11, 2020 - 06:57 AM UTC
ok, we'll see. I went back and applied a little more micro sol to the area so ill keep you posted as it dries. I did debate whether or not to put 2 coats of Future but only used 1.
RobinNilsson
Director of Member Services
Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,042 Posts
Member Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,042 Posts
Posted: Saturday, April 11, 2020 - 07:31 AM UTC
I use a slightly different method.
1. give the whole model a satin coat with future or other clear acrylic laquer. Let dry.
2. Soak a decal in water until it comes loose from the backing paper. Wash off the decal glue
3. Use a brush to place a puddle of future/laquer in the intended position for the decal.
4. Dump the decal in the puddle. Use a brush to tamp it down.
5. Brush the excess future ( is it possible to have excess future???) in over the decal to cover it completely. Soak up the excess with a lint free cloth.
6. Repeat for the next decal.
Airbrush the whole thing afterwards to get the wanted surface gloss/satin/dead flat.
This method will NOT solve the problems with very uneven surfaces, such as rivets, bolts, grooves between adjoining armour plates et.c.
/ Robin
1. give the whole model a satin coat with future or other clear acrylic laquer. Let dry.
2. Soak a decal in water until it comes loose from the backing paper. Wash off the decal glue
3. Use a brush to place a puddle of future/laquer in the intended position for the decal.
4. Dump the decal in the puddle. Use a brush to tamp it down.
5. Brush the excess future ( is it possible to have excess future???) in over the decal to cover it completely. Soak up the excess with a lint free cloth.
6. Repeat for the next decal.
Airbrush the whole thing afterwards to get the wanted surface gloss/satin/dead flat.
This method will NOT solve the problems with very uneven surfaces, such as rivets, bolts, grooves between adjoining armour plates et.c.
/ Robin
MrchntMarine
Louisiana, United States
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2020 - 05:36 AM UTC
tks for the tip robin - always good to see how others are doing things. The pic w/ the circle is the whole decal and the other is the other side and the decal i cut. Im thinking now i should have sprayed 2 coats future ...
Removed by original poster on 04/12/20 - 17:45:01 (GMT).
MrchntMarine
Louisiana, United States
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Member Since: February 11, 2020
entire network: 62 Posts
KitMaker Network: 27 Posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2020 - 06:18 AM UTC
RobinNilsson
Director of Member Services
Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,042 Posts
Member Since: November 29, 2006
entire network: 6,693 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,042 Posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2020 - 08:50 AM UTC
Cutting away unnecessary clear areas of the decal is usually a good idea.
Some more future/acrylic lacquer and possibly a light sanding/polishing (1200 grit or finer) of the edges would probably take care of those hard edges
Some more future/acrylic lacquer and possibly a light sanding/polishing (1200 grit or finer) of the edges would probably take care of those hard edges