I use a lot of resin and REN Shape in my scartchbbuilding projects. I cast my own resin rods for machining because it's easier machining in resin then in metal. I also cast blocks of resin and I use them as a starting point for the pattern that I am making. The best material I found is REN Shape, this is actually cast resin that is designed for industrial pattern makers. I like to use it instead of basswood because it's rigid and easier to shape and carve then basswood. The REN Shape I use is brownish to pinkish in color.


For example here are some pics of the parts I am making for my T-55.

Engine
I first cut the blocks in my bandsaw



Then I add my styrene details and assemble


And here is the engine. I just need to add the small details now.


Transmission

Here again I used REN shape to carve the basic shape.


Then I added the styrene details



Here are some more pics of parts using REN Shape




I also cast my own resin rods, like I said it’s easier to machine in resin then metal and especially if you are going to glue details to it after machining.

I have miniature Sherline lathe and milling machine, I bought them through Micro-Mark.

Here for example I'm machining the T-55 roadwheel


And here are the T-55 cupolas I machined first, then added styrene detail afterward.


Here is another example of using resin rods. T-55 break drums with added styrene details


And here is an LAV-25 wheel with added styrene threads


I also use cast resin block. Resin is harder then REN shape so it is a little difficult to carve by hand, but I cut square pieces out of it on the bandsaw and use it to sandwich with styrene.

Here is an incomplete T-55 air filter using resin blocks.



Best regards and happy Easter to all of you

T. Chouman

Tango,
WOW I'm speechless . Your work is fantastic. Can you or would you do a longer feature of this in the Building tips post, with some more detail about how you do this? I think there are many more modellers out there like myself who would appreciate this.
All the best and keep up this great work.
Stormin.

This is quite impressive. I may try to make a jump into doing a scratchbuilding project once I get out of graduate school (funds + time).

I love to see how things come together for people out of basic shapes and materials. I always thought that was the true mark of an artist.

Stephen

I have a couple questions. Where is REN Shape available commercially, and what do you use to attach styrene to REN Shape.

In this picture you show some boxes. I got one of the long thin ones from Verlinden and was wondering what it was exactly.

Hi BroAbrams.




REN Shape is made by a company called Vantico in Lancing, Michigan. It comes as a very large block. I bought a block of 6'x2'x2" 8 years ago and I've only used about 1/4 of it so far. It is cast resin so you can use super glue to attach styrene to it. Smooth-On now makes a board like it and they sell them in small blocks 4"X2"X1", I'm sure if you do an internet search you can probably find a dealer that sells it. I could send you a piece of it if you'd like.




These are tool and storage boxes located on the port side fender on the T-55.

Happy Easter

T. Chouman

I am ashamed 'cause I used to think I could scratch build.

Hi there TC. Very impressive indeed. I love your work especially that LAV. I agree with what Stormin' suggested that maybe you could do a bit of a write-up as a feature in this forum for us aspiring scratchbuilders. It would be greatly appreciated. Happy Easter to you too.

Rob,
You can REN Shape and just about every castable plastic, resin, plaster you can imagine from Freeman Supply. That is where we get ours. (I supervise a small pattern shop in a foundry)
Link below.
Shaun

http://www.freemansupply.com/MachinableMedia.htm

Okay, I just receved some RenShape blocks from Talal, and my thanks go out to him for that. I thought I would post some observations. Frist of all it's very light, not nearly as dense as regular resin. In fact I would say it has the density of pine wood, or even balsa. It's a brownish red color and the saw blade cuts in it give it the appearance of a block of wood. I showed it to my wife and she asked if it was maple or oak. It is about as hard as resin (I know it is a resin, but to me resin is what verlinden sells.) and it cuts about the same. It is very workable, and will take something of a finish. I sanded and painted a piece of it and and the only flaws I could see were of my own making, so it will produce about the same finish as styrene. I am not very handy at carving or machining, but I am going to practice on the pieces he sent me ( avery generous amount I might add, enough to keep me busy for a while) and see what I can come up with. This would have been nice to have when I did the slave starting box on my abrams. Thanks Talal, it is appreciated.

Rob

Talal,
Do you know what number Ren Shape you are using? 350, 440, 450, 460, etc.
Thanks in advance.

Shaun

Link
Ren Shape

Howdy Talal,

I think Stormin siad it best (or didn't say it at all ), I'm speechless as well. Ya know, every once in awhile something comes along that almost feels like an epiphany. This REN block stuff definitely has my attention. But I want to get a few things straight about the material first. You said " I like to use it instead of Basswood because it's rigid and easier to shape and carve than basswood". How true a statement is this?
Also, your inclusion of the mini lathe picture is a heart warmer. I am by profession an Architect, but by trade, a Master Carpenter/wood worker. One of the things I do is build fine furniture, and also dapple with some wood turning (a difficult endeavor to be sure). So your treatment of the REN on the lathe/milling machine has also gotten my attention!

As others have said, and I will join the 'chorus', please oh please put together an extended Tech article on the material and how you use it. This REN shape stuff sounds quite intriguing.

to keenan: So you knew about this stuff already?....next time speak up you son of a gun!
Also, thx for the links. You are redeemed. ;-)

to 'Roo: no worries mate.....you CAN!

Tread.

I don't think he uses RenShape for the rods as it is already cast into sheets when he gets it. I think he casts his own resin rods.

Rob

Hi TreadHead

REN Shape is a good material for carving, milling and shaping, NOT good for turning. It is much better than Basswood, you should try it. Give me your address I'll send you a piece. Regarding turning, like I said, I cast my own rods, it's easy to do, get a piece of PVC pipe in any diameter, slice it in the middle (Radius) put the 2 pieces back together, rap it with duct tape so it doesn't leak and seal one end with a piece of Styrene sheet, spray mold release, or apply some petroleum jelly to the inside of the pipe, mix your resin and poor. After resin has cured, remove the duct tape and split the pipe, and voila, a resin rod.

Hi Keenan



I actually use all of them, but the one I've been talking about and I most use is REN Shape 460.

Now regarding a feature article, I'm working on one, hopefully I'll have it done by the weekend.

Best and happy modeling

T. Chouman

Talal,
We're so happy to see you back at this forum.
I didn't know about REN, but I'll certainly look it up and try to get my hands on some. Looks interesting !

I'm amazed by the LAV wheel you assembled. Must be an incredible job to make all those tread pieces and put them in place. I did about the same with my M35. My biggest problem was to figure out the exact size of the thread pieces to make sure it ends up correctly when the whole wheel is done ? How do you do it ? Calculate the size and indicate on the wheel where to put them ? Start by putting them at the numbers of the clock and then fill out the spaces in between ?

Hi GeneralFailure




When I bought the Sheline milling machine, I bought all the accessories with it, one of the most usefull accessory, is the rotary table, it's a circular table indexed with 360 degrees. Here's what I did with the tire, I first machined the tire from resin rod, mounted it in the rotary table, divided the number of treads by 360, indicated the location and glued the styrene. For example let say I have a tire with 60 treads on the diameter, so divide 360 by 60, that's 6, now you turn your rotary table 6 degrees for every tread and idicate the location. It's a littel dificult to explaine it in words, I would have to write an article with lots of photos to really understand it, it's a very simple process, it's just hard to explain it without pictures.

You think the LAV tire was hard? that tire is 16th scale, I had to make the same thing in 1/35th scale for the LAV, HEMTT, HMMWV and M-939 when I used to have TAC Scale Dynamics if you guys remember it, That was hard


Best and happy modeling

T. Chouman

I understand what you mean. I've used one of those that I borrowed from a friend, but the end result didn't come close to looking as precise as your work. Maybe I shouldn't have given up after that one trial. It is more precise than my own method : doing the numbers of the clock first, and fill the in-betweens after that.

Thanks !

Jan

How are ther sherline Machines to work with, and what models do you use. I'm thinking about purchasing one.

Thanks!!!!

The RenShape sample kit that I ordered from Freeman Supply arrived at work today. It come with samples of 11 different types RenShape and a chunk of Freeman's Perfect Plank plywood. You also get some nice literature and a CD-Rom movie. I didn't have any idea there were that many different types of RenShape and am going to order some of them for us to use here in the pattern shop. Amazing how sometimes your hobbies can actually help you in the "real" world. Not bad for $25.00...

Picture...



Shaun

Be sure to save the scraps.........for youself!!!! (and Buddies)

Howdy keenan,

I think I speak for everybody, but just in case, I'm asking ya........we expect a complete report!!!



Tread.

The Sherline machines are very good for miniature models, they are pretty accurate within .010". I've had them for about 12 years now, and I do all my miniature machining on them. The only problem I had with them is a little backlash in x & y about.005" but I figured out how to compensate for the error.

The machines I use are Model 4400 for lathe and Model 2000 for the milling machine.

Like I said, the machines are perfect modeling tool for machinig miniature parts for models, but they are NOT good for precision machining with tolerances of less than .010".

Best and happy scratchbuilding.

T. Chouman

Howdy all,

I just wanted to take the time to shout out a big "THANK YOU!" to our good member Talal Chouman, for doing precisely what he said he would do by sending me a rather large piece of REN shape!
Talal, many thx for taking the time to send me this sample of REN shape. I'm not quite sure precisely what I'm going to do with it (need to think of something that can take best advantage of the piece), but I can asure you that I'll be knocking on your door for both inspiration (which you apparently have LOTS of), and guidance. :-)

Just see what you started Talal!

Warm regards,

Tread.

BTW......short of going out and buying a mini lathe, any suggestions?

While searching online i came across anothe product called Butter Board I got a sample and it looks very similar to the Renshape still need to compare prices..... (I'm waiting on my Sherline order to show up :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

hey do any of you guys have any u could send me? is it possible to cast them from bondo?

Incredible! It truly never occured to me that you could scratch "TIRE TREAD"!!!???