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Scratchbuilders!: Armor/AFV
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Cast texture and weld seams
Folgore
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 12:38 AM UTC
I want to know the best way to create the texture of cast parts and weld seams. I'm sure some of you guys can help me with this one.

Thanks,
Nic
ArmouredSprue
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 01:19 AM UTC
Hi Nic,
to the cast texture I'm afraid I can't help you since I never did it before, as far as I'm concernned, overall the cast represented on most models are ok. if I'd try to simulate I think I'll probably overdo its effect....
To the weld seams, I use a very simple method (you can see the end results on my model of the T34/76 with the winter camo here at Armorama.com gallery). If your model presents some sort of weld seams already molded in place, just scribe over it using a home made tool (a fine pointed needle with a handle of a piece of sprue or wood), just heat the point of the needle in to a flame and scribe the surface of the model, heat again and keep doing along the seam, very carefull and with patient. If your model don't have the weld seam, just make some stretched sprue, glue it where is suppose to be your seam and act as describe above....After complete brush some liquid cement over it, if you'd like you can sand it a little with a fine sand paper and brush the liquid cement after, let aside for a complete dry!
It works to me, give it a try! My R$0.02 (brazilian money! )
Cheers
TreadHead
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 01:25 AM UTC
I have been told that mixing a little micro-sand with your paint will create the desired affect.
Folgore
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 03:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

to the cast texture I'm afraid I can't help you since I never did it before, as far as I'm concernned, overall the cast represented on most models are ok. if I'd try to simulate I think I'll probably overdo its effect....



Paulo--I agree, but I'm going to be doing a little surgery to a model which will involve the loss of some of that texture, so I need to find a way to do it myself. I have an article where a guy stipples Liquid Poly on with a stiff brush, but I don't know what Liquid Poly even is or if I can get it. Your weld seam idea sounds simple and easy and I will be sure to give it a try. Thanks.

Nic
ukgeoff
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 04:14 AM UTC
Nic

Liquid Poly is just the brand name for the liquid glue made by Humbrol. Any other type you can get locally will also do the trick
GeneralFailure
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Posted: Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 04:46 AM UTC
The subject of making weld seams was already discussed in the Armor forum before. There were many suggestions. Click here to find them.
SS-74
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Posted: Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 04:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

to the cast texture I'm afraid I can't help you since I never did it before, as far as I'm concernned, overall the cast represented on most models are ok. if I'd try to simulate I think I'll probably overdo its effect....



Paulo--I agree, but I'm going to be doing a little surgery to a model which will involve the loss of some of that texture, so I need to find a way to do it myself. I have an article where a guy stipples Liquid Poly on with a stiff brush, but I don't know what Liquid Poly even is or if I can get it. Your weld seam idea sounds simple and easy and I will be sure to give it a try. Thanks.

Nic



Hi Nic,

I use both ways, one is apply a layer of plastic cement on the surface you want to creat more cast effect, when it's half dry, then stipple with a stiff brush, after wards sand them a bit. Another is using a dremel tool set the speed on low, then use the head that looked like a ball (sorry, don't know the correct name for it :-) ) then just let it bounce around the surface. I find the first way to be easier for me since I am still learning on the use of my dremel tool.

HTH.
trackpins
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2002 - 04:25 AM UTC
Hi Nic,

The easiest, cleanest way without glue etc. is Gunze Sanyo Mr Finisher 500. It's a liquid filler.

Get a short (half an inch no more) stiff bristled brush, dip it in and stipple on the surface until it starts drying. Once dry if you need a rougher finish do the same again.

If you make a mess of it, it comes off easily with cellulose thinners. (Also clean you brush in it.)

I'm no expert but I can get excellent results even at 1:8 scale and I have applied up to 5 coats on the really rough cast parts of my T34-85.

Good luck, it's easy, take my word for it.

Trackpins (Peter)
kayelbe
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2002 - 04:32 AM UTC
The method I recently tried was to use a texture spray paint. Available at paint/hardware stores (Michaels even had some IIRC) , they come in many sizes of texture. The one I used was a "suede". It puts out a nice texture you can paint over and drybush to suit.

kev
Greg
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2002 - 04:34 AM UTC
The metal Dremel attachment that looks like a ball is called the steel cutter. And yes, it works at low speed to rough up plastic for cast armor texture. Too rough if left alone, so give the model a brush coat of liquid glue (Testors is fine) to soften the contours. Then don't touch it for about a week.

For weld seams, I sometimes use little beads of epoxy putty on the joint to be "welded" and texture it with the end of a scriber or the like--even a toothpick will work. I used this method to make the weld seams for the driver's and co-driver's applique armor on my M4A4. Just finished that an sent photos to Jim, so it hsould be up in the gallery later this week sometime.
Greg
Abrams101
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Posted: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 07:00 AM UTC
You know I just found out a great way to make weld seams.
what you do is put two drops of silver enamel paint on a piece of cardboard, let it dry up untill its like putty. then scrape it off with a razor( if scrapped with a razor you should have just enough silver on the tip of the blade to lay a thin bead allong the welded seam).
After that take a round toothpick or a ballpoint pen tip and start at the top and push in VERY LIGHTLY and just work your way down.
The reason i use silver is you can see it better, And putty just dries too quick for me.
Dubanka
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Posted: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:02 PM UTC
I used carbeurator cleaner with nice effects. It's a little quicker than liquid glue, and seems to give nicer results. (to me) Same technique as the glue, just stipple with a stiff brush.

I'd recommend some practice first though.

John
sgtreef
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Posted: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 07:45 PM UTC
The liquid glue is about the best one that I have used. Pratice on scrap first it is easy. When done a light sanding to knock off any strands that might stick up.
KFMagee
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Posted: Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 03:44 AM UTC
Another way to get texture (for a cast turrent, for example) is to brush on a layer of liquid glue, then come back and brush over the damp glue with some baking soda (I use TENAX glue).

Stipple if you want more texture, but in most cases, the rough baking soda will do the trick.. Add more layers or more soda for more texture.

Others in my regular circle have used fine sand, but I find that looks too much like... well...uh... fine sand!
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