With the increase of 3D after market parts has any one posted a tutorial on working with 3D parts.
In looking at M S Productions web site they recommend staying away from acetone, mineral spirits or any strong solvent. They recommend using only acrylic primers and paints.I usually prime with Mr Surfacer.
Are there any other should or should not do with 3d printed parts.
Thanks Dave M
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3D Printed parts
armyguy
Wisconsin, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 25, 2018 - 12:22 PM UTC
HeavyArty
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Posted: Friday, October 26, 2018 - 06:34 AM UTC
I have use quite a few 3D printed parts and treated them just like resin parts. I use CA glue and enamel paints w/out any issues.
brekinapez
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 26, 2018 - 06:56 AM UTC
On a related note, word is that Shapeways is planning a massive price increase that may drastically affect many of the contributors to that site.
armyguy
Wisconsin, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 26, 2018 - 08:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have use quite a few 3D printed parts and treated them just like resin parts. I use CA glue and enamel paints w/out any issues.
Good to hear thanks for the input.
Dave M
Posted: Friday, October 26, 2018 - 11:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have use quite a few 3D printed parts and treated them just like resin parts. I use CA glue and enamel paints w/out any issues.
Ditto to what Gino said:
MikeyBugs95
New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 12, 2018 - 06:51 PM UTC
Hi, I'm the one who runs Mike's MS Productions. Yes, I wouldn't use very much of those solvents because they may damage the resin material. The resin used in these 3D printed parts is not like the normal resin we use for models. It's very fragile and could be weakened, become rubbery (I've had before on a part) or possibly start to break up when exposed to strong solvents for a long time. Exposing the parts to these strong solvents for a very short amount of time shouldn't be a problem. I've also used Mr. Surfacer to prime printed parts and I've had no problems. I'd say that Mr. Surfacer is perfectly fine to use.
What you should also do is let the parts sit under a UV lamp or under sunlight for a little while, maybe an hour or three, to cure any bits of uncured resin. After that, soak the parts in mineral spirits for no more than a minute to rinse any remaining surface resin off then rinse it under a light stream of water. After they dry, you can store the parts in the little baggie they came in if you're not going to use them immediately or prime them and attach them to the model using CA glue. If you need to cut the parts from sprues, be very careful. These 3D printed parts are very fragile, I'd say more so than regular resin, and should be handled with a lot of care. Large, thick pieces won't break but very small details will break with the wrong touch. I once very lightly touched the antenna of a part I bought (not my own) and it snapped off.
What you should also do is let the parts sit under a UV lamp or under sunlight for a little while, maybe an hour or three, to cure any bits of uncured resin. After that, soak the parts in mineral spirits for no more than a minute to rinse any remaining surface resin off then rinse it under a light stream of water. After they dry, you can store the parts in the little baggie they came in if you're not going to use them immediately or prime them and attach them to the model using CA glue. If you need to cut the parts from sprues, be very careful. These 3D printed parts are very fragile, I'd say more so than regular resin, and should be handled with a lot of care. Large, thick pieces won't break but very small details will break with the wrong touch. I once very lightly touched the antenna of a part I bought (not my own) and it snapped off.
Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 02:58 AM UTC
All very good to know. I have to admit I have not been giving these resin parts the care they require/deserve.
I guess I have simply been lucky up till now.
I guess I have simply been lucky up till now.
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 03:01 AM UTC
I just ordered an accurate engine deck for my T-55A to beat any Shapeways' price increase. I have worked with printed coms equipment. As Gino said, "treat them like Just like resin". On a side note, the detail is beautiful and, IMHO better than several resin options.