Had I looked closer at the Hobby Boss Schneider reviews, I no doubt would have seen the across-the-board panning of the tracks. It was only when I started to tackle them that I realized just how inadequate they are for an otherwise pleasant model to build. As was noted in one review, there are no positive mating features for each three-piece track section; the modeler has to eyeball the positioning of each link, and the result is likely what you’d expect from most everyone’s attempts. I’d read of more than one builder abandoning the project and, with no aftermarket tracks available, resigning the kit to the shelf or (gulp) the trash bin.
I was about to follow suit with those who had ditched their Schneider kits when I recalled a few forays into carpentry projects requiring scratch-built jigs. So I thought, hey, what the hell’s the difference here? I had some thick plastic card stock on hand—sorry, but I don’t know the thickness since I don’t have the packaging. I made what might appear to be a deep shovel, with dimensions just wide enough to hold the actual track plate (Hobby Boss part #T2). HB parts T1 and T3 overhang the front or leading edge of the track plate (the slotted hinge joint); T1 and T3 are positioned in the only positive mating point (such as it is) on T2: two depressions that a.) are much wider than necessary to accommodate the front edges of T1 and T3, and b.) do not provide for an accurate centering and mating of T1 and T3; these parts butt up against T2’s leading edge but can float side to side in either direction, causing for a potentially (and significantly) misaligned track assembly.
To compound the problem, T1 and T3 are joined only at the rear (by a pin protruding from T3 which butts against the flat at the inside-facing rear of T1), while the front remains open as the linking point for the next section of track. As you might guess, the front spacing between T1 and T3 would again have to be eyeballed and the resultant spacing would be inconsistent. In constructing the jig, then, I made a notched handle that continued into the shovel itself; this handle was a strip of the same plastic card used to make the shovel. This portion would be centered so as to bisect the track plate (T2) lengthwise. I found to my great relief that the plastic card is the same width as the pin on the end of T3, so centering this portion would also ensure the proper alignment and spacing of T1 and T3.
As was noted previously, T1 and T3 protrude slightly beyond T2’s leading edge, so I placed two strips vertically in the inside corners of the shovel to act as a stop for T2; this then allowed for the extra space required for T1 and T3 . Finally, before centering and gluing the notched handle into place, I cut a strip off of the bottom of the interior portion to allow for the insertion of the T2 track plate. Using this jig, the track assembly would be reduced to a matter of repetitious production work. Thankfully it went very smoothly and consistently, and the jig ensured that each link element was properly placed.
As for the actual assembly, I glued T3 to T2 with slow-set Zap-A-Gap, squaring it up against the center protrusion of the jig. I then carefully backed the assembly out by grasping the shovel handle and using tweezers. The assembly was then left aside to set and another pair of parts was positioned for assembly. Once a series of 6 or 8 assemblies had dried, I would then link them by joining T3 pin to T3 pinhole; part T1’s were then dry-fit into place in succession and glued with thinset CA EXCEPT for the first and last T1’s, left open to accept the next series of links. And so-on to the end when the last made link is joined to the first made link and the job is complete.
As can be seen from the pictures, I partially completed one set of tracks using the jig and inserting some track links done by hand. The other set was done completely with the jig. I don’t have to tell you which were which! Not only are the jig tracks straight but they’re also cleaner, with virtually no excess glue to speak of.
If I recall correctly, the drive sprocket axle swivels to allow for the fully-closed loop of tracks to be placed. The tracks are then tensioned by moving the drive sprocket back. The axle is then glued in position and the tracks are done. Instead of finding a more or less permanent home on the shelf of unfinished business, the Schneider CA is one of my favorite completed kits to look at. I hope this has helped anyone who has struggled or is struggling with Hobby Boss’s woefully inadequate tracks for this otherwise solid kit.
