Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Attaching Etch
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 04:50 PM UTC
I need to attach 1mm numerals and letters to plastic. I tried extra-thin ca glue. However, it does not give me a long enough working time(have to line up the etch). Are there any options that may work for this?
MLD
Vermont, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 05:02 PM UTC
Try the 'Gator Grip' white glue-like product that used to be sold by a guy over on the Model Shipwrights page.
Longer working time, water cleanup, resistant to thinner when cured.
Longer working time, water cleanup, resistant to thinner when cured.
Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 05:24 PM UTC
I have heard of people setting small PE parts using Future, as it will provide some working time. Once the Future dries, touch with extra thin CA to complete bond.
retiredyank
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 05:27 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Try the 'Gator Grip' white glue-like product that used to be sold by a guy over on the Model Shipwrights page.
Longer working time, water cleanup, resistant to thinner when cured.
I will give it a try.
Quoted Text
I have heard of people setting small PE parts using Future, as it will provide some working time. Once the Future dries, touch with extra thin CA to complete bond.
Extra thin CA drowns the etch. I had to sand it off, when I first tried it. I wonder if Future alone would provide a strong enough bond, as it won't be touched.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 05:27 PM UTC
Colle21 awesome stuff dont glue untill you press togeter the parts you can find on Amazon in varius kit or just the glue
http://italienstylerenov.com/english/
http://italienstylerenov.com/english/
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 05:36 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Colle21 awesome stuff dont glue untill you press togeter the parts you can find on Amazon in varius kit or just the glue
http://italienstylerenov.com/english/
It sounded perfect, until "IDEAL FOR STICKING : RUBBER, METAL, SUEDE, WOOD, LEATHER, CERAMIC, PLASTIC
EXCEPT PE, PP, PTFE.".
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 06:06 PM UTC
I also recently discovered Gator Glue,really great for PE
varanusk
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 06:20 PM UTC
not only Future, any clear varnish can do. There is also an UV cured glue that may work. I am yet to try it.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 06:42 PM UTC
I have a large supply of varnish. I think that I will try that, first. The people, at Bronco are sadists btw.
Scarred
Washington, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 07:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have a large supply of varnish. I think that I will try that, first. The people, at Bronco are sadists btw.
May I ask what they are torturing you with?
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 07:05 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI have a large supply of varnish. I think that I will try that, first. The people, at Bronco are sadists btw.
May I ask what they are torturing you with?
The casting figures are 1mm etch b*stards that you have to attache. There are three lines of them, on each side of the glacis and must be near perfectly in line to fit it. Oh, it's the Chaffee Early kit. The rest of it looks to be superb, if I can get past this step. I'm building it as a review, along with the LionRoar set. On the plus side, I have a very fine bottle of whiskey that I am working myself through.
Scarred
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 07:16 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextI have a large supply of varnish. I think that I will try that, first. The people, at Bronco are sadists btw.
May I ask what they are torturing you with?
The casting figures are 1mm etch b*stards that you have to attache. There are three lines of them, on each side of the glacis and must be near perfectly in line to fit it. Oh, it's the Chaffee Early kit. The rest of it looks to be superb, if I can get past this step. I'm building it as a review, along with the LionRoar set. On the plus side, I have a very fine bottle of whiskey that I am working myself through.
Well if the lines start staggering we can assume it's not the glues fault. Good luck and if model companies are sadists does that make us masochists?
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 07:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextQuoted TextI have a large supply of varnish. I think that I will try that, first. The people, at Bronco are sadists btw.
May I ask what they are torturing you with?
The casting figures are 1mm etch b*stards that you have to attache. There are three lines of them, on each side of the glacis and must be near perfectly in line to fit it. Oh, it's the Chaffee Early kit. The rest of it looks to be superb, if I can get past this step. I'm building it as a review, along with the LionRoar set. On the plus side, I have a very fine bottle of whiskey that I am working myself through.
Well if the lines start staggering we can assume it's not the glues fault. Good luck and if model companies are sadists does that make us masochists?
Not all are(cough* Tamiya). But, I for one am a masochist(cough* Dragon). Now, to go draw a template.
Scarred
Washington, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 24, 2017 - 07:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextQuoted TextQuoted TextI have a large supply of varnish. I think that I will try that, first. The people, at Bronco are sadists btw.
May I ask what they are torturing you with?
The casting figures are 1mm etch b*stards that you have to attache. There are three lines of them, on each side of the glacis and must be near perfectly in line to fit it. Oh, it's the Chaffee Early kit. The rest of it looks to be superb, if I can get past this step. I'm building it as a review, along with the LionRoar set. On the plus side, I have a very fine bottle of whiskey that I am working myself through.
Well if the lines start staggering we can assume it's not the glues fault. Good luck and if model companies are sadists does that make us masochists?
Not all are(cough* Tamiya). But, I for one am a masochist(cough* Dragon). Now, to go draw a template.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 - 02:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextColle21 awesome stuff dont glue untill you press togeter the parts you can find on Amazon in varius kit or just the glue
http://italienstylerenov.com/english/
It sounded perfect, until "IDEAL FOR STICKING : RUBBER, METAL, SUEDE, WOOD, LEATHER, CERAMIC, PLASTIC
EXCEPT PE, PP, PTFE.".
For "PE" (photo-etch) on Styrene and Polystyrene works very well, do you use PE (Polyethylene), PP (Polypropylene) or PTFE (Teflon) for models?...
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 - 02:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextColle21 awesome stuff dont glue untill you press togeter the parts you can find on Amazon in varius kit or just the glue
http://italienstylerenov.com/english/
It sounded perfect, until "IDEAL FOR STICKING : RUBBER, METAL, SUEDE, WOOD, LEATHER, CERAMIC, PLASTIC
EXCEPT PE, PP, PTFE.".
For "PE" (photo-etch) on Styrene and Polystyrene works very well, do you use PE (Polyethylene), PP (Polypropylene) or PTFE (Teflon) for models?...
I assumed "PE" was short for "photo etch". However, I am going to try securing it, with varnish before ordering glue.
Posted: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 - 08:06 PM UTC
Hi Matt,
I use Gator Grip for jobs like this, but if it all goes pear-shaped you could toss the etch numbers and reach for a sheet of Archer transfers. The generic Sherman set has bags of tiny numbers that can be assembled into the requisite marks - they are water-slide decals so are much, MUCH easier to work with than PE! I've added tons of accurate numbers to Sherman parts with them - the tricky part is cutting out the tiny suckers in the first place...
(My own Chaffee is still in the box, but I'll be replacing the etch when I get round to it.)
I use Gator Grip for jobs like this, but if it all goes pear-shaped you could toss the etch numbers and reach for a sheet of Archer transfers. The generic Sherman set has bags of tiny numbers that can be assembled into the requisite marks - they are water-slide decals so are much, MUCH easier to work with than PE! I've added tons of accurate numbers to Sherman parts with them - the tricky part is cutting out the tiny suckers in the first place...
(My own Chaffee is still in the box, but I'll be replacing the etch when I get round to it.)
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 - 08:18 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Matt,
I use Gator Grip for jobs like this, but if it all goes pear-shaped you could toss the etch numbers and reach for a sheet of Archer transfers. The generic Sherman set has bags of tiny numbers that can be assembled into the requisite marks - they are water-slide decals so are much, MUCH easier to work with than PE! I've added tons of accurate numbers to Sherman parts with them - the tricky part is cutting out the tiny suckers in the first place...
(My own Chaffee is still in the box, but I'll be replacing the etch when I get round to it.)
I may replace them. I am trying a plausible technique, right now. I gingerly stuck small piece of etch to some Tamiya tape. I applied some varnish to spare styrene and gently laid the tape over it. A little pressure and am waiting for the varnish to cure. I'm hoping that I can remove the tape and the etch will remain stuck in the varnish.
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 - 11:59 PM UTC
The tape theory was an outright failure. I attached three of the numerals using Future. They stuck well enough, until I applied a second coat. As soon as it touched them, they fell off. I will order both of the suggested glues and see which one works better.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 02:31 PM UTC
I mixed a white glue slurry. Works great! Just touch the part to the slurry and apply to the model. You have to allow a few minutes curing time, between each piece. Glad I don't have to buy a special glue that I may only use a few times.
Scarred
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 02:43 PM UTC
Congrats! I'd say have a drink in celebration but by this time the bottle is probably dry. BTW what type of glue did you wind up using and how much did you thin it?
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 02:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Congrats! I'd say have a drink in celebration but by this time the bottle is probably dry. BTW what type of glue did you wind up using and how much did you thin it?
I used Elmer's white glue. I mixed it in equal parts, with distilled water. After I have secured the etch, I will go back over with Future. I'm hoping this will assist the white glue to keep the etch in place. There may be a little something left in the bottle, but not this time of morning.
Scarred
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 04:35 PM UTC
Sounds so simple. I'll have to give that a try.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 05:31 PM UTC
I will post a photo, after I finished applying the etch to one side. So far, it is going quite well. Aligning them correctly is a little tedious, though. Six parts take about an hour and I believe could be done faster. I'm just not taking the risk of knocking one piece off, before the glue has fully cured.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 - 06:16 PM UTC