Hi everyone,
I just started building kits, only one that is sorta finished is a 1/72 Sea Harrier by Airfix which made me hate Revell Aqua colors. So I read some threads and it seems that Vallejo is the way to go for brushing ( not enough money to go for Airbrush, the Iwata Neo seems to be a good start there, no clue on the compressor though.
Now to the questions
So far I have some files, a precision Cutter and some good superglue. I won't count the [auto-censored]ty brushes I have aswell as the almost empty Contacta professional which I'm not very happy with. What should I add to that?
Which brushes should I get? I read the article on brushes, but I'm still torn on kolinsky or synth and which sizes are essential.
I got some partly build Kits:
Challenger 2 Enhanced Armor by Trumpeter in 1/35
M-51 Super Sherman by Academy in 1/35
Messerschmitt Bf109E-4/E-1 by Airfix in 1/48
Tornado ECR ‘Tigermeet’2011/12 by Revell in 1/72
Which Vallejo colors would I need for those? Aswell as Thinner, and extra stuff.
I would really appreciate a little overview so that I can buy everything part by Part.
Thank you in advance
Svarttjern
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Svarttjern
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 02:59 AM UTC
Vicious
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 04:16 AM UTC
Everyone have different "taste" i use Revell contacta from the 90's and i love it with the tamiya extra-thinn green cap
Me too at the moment i work just with brushes
For paint i prefere Humbrol Enamel or Life Color Acrylics but also here i have my own taste
add some good set of tweezers i find a very cheap but good set on Aliexpress.com
I alternate AFV models with 54mm / 75mm figures and mostly use oils and enamels,i found that to me the Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes are the best and if I can choose i go always on natural brushes, for me work better, basic brushes that I use more 'ranging from 2 to 0/3 and also you need 1 or 2 flat brushes, after i am an addicted-brushes buyer i have brushes of all sizes and shapes imaginable but that is my problem!
But that too many people underestimate is that buy expensive brushes and do not treat them well is like throwing money out the window, first thing never dip them all but only up to half and then cleaning is very important, with oils and enamels use when i work WhiteSpirit or similar thinners and after laquer thinner then warm water and "The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver" but there are several other dedicated products, but not those from hardware store that are too aggressive
For decal I like Microsol and Microset and for Gloss Humbrol Gloss Clear, much like the future wax, like Matt i find exceptional AK Ultra Matt Varnish
Me too at the moment i work just with brushes
For paint i prefere Humbrol Enamel or Life Color Acrylics but also here i have my own taste
add some good set of tweezers i find a very cheap but good set on Aliexpress.com
I alternate AFV models with 54mm / 75mm figures and mostly use oils and enamels,i found that to me the Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes are the best and if I can choose i go always on natural brushes, for me work better, basic brushes that I use more 'ranging from 2 to 0/3 and also you need 1 or 2 flat brushes, after i am an addicted-brushes buyer i have brushes of all sizes and shapes imaginable but that is my problem!
But that too many people underestimate is that buy expensive brushes and do not treat them well is like throwing money out the window, first thing never dip them all but only up to half and then cleaning is very important, with oils and enamels use when i work WhiteSpirit or similar thinners and after laquer thinner then warm water and "The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver" but there are several other dedicated products, but not those from hardware store that are too aggressive
For decal I like Microsol and Microset and for Gloss Humbrol Gloss Clear, much like the future wax, like Matt i find exceptional AK Ultra Matt Varnish
varanusk
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 05:14 AM UTC
Hi Daniel,
I will focus on the building part. I do not know what problem you had with Revell contacta glue, providing we are talking about this one:
It has worked fine for me. I like also the Tamiya ultra thin (or equivalent) for some tasks.
For a basic building I miss the filler (Humbrol or Tamiya, plus Vallejo for small gaps if you can) and some wet-or-dry sandpaper.
If you plan to use at least basic photoetch parts, a small flat nose pliers will come handy.
I will focus on the building part. I do not know what problem you had with Revell contacta glue, providing we are talking about this one:
It has worked fine for me. I like also the Tamiya ultra thin (or equivalent) for some tasks.
For a basic building I miss the filler (Humbrol or Tamiya, plus Vallejo for small gaps if you can) and some wet-or-dry sandpaper.
If you plan to use at least basic photoetch parts, a small flat nose pliers will come handy.
Svarttjern
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 11:37 AM UTC
Thank you for the recommendations was really unsure on which filler and Decal Solutions to use. About the Series 7 Brushes the normal or the short ones?
It's not that the contacta glue itself is bad and most of the times it works like a charm, other times I get a big drop on a tiny partand it flows everywhere, softening the part and making surfaces take on fingerprints. now I just let the first drop out and use the applier after that, But that'S a waste of glue. I was thinking about giving the Tamiya Extra Thin a try.
It's not that the contacta glue itself is bad and most of the times it works like a charm, other times I get a big drop on a tiny partand it flows everywhere, softening the part and making surfaces take on fingerprints. now I just let the first drop out and use the applier after that, But that'S a waste of glue. I was thinking about giving the Tamiya Extra Thin a try.
Vicious
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 12:27 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you for the recommendations was really unsure on which filler and Decal Solutions to use. About the Series 7 Brushes the normal or the short ones?
It's not that the contacta glue itself is bad and most of the times it works like a charm, other times I get a big drop on a tiny partand it flows everywhere, softening the part and making surfaces take on fingerprints. now I just let the first drop out and use the applier after that, But that'S a waste of glue. I was thinking about giving the Tamiya Extra Thin a try.
The Normal one i have from 2 to 0/3 for general works and lines,the short from 0 to 0/3 just for detail and fine works were i dont need a lots of pait,but you can do everithing with the normal,also the Da Vinci is good and cheaper but they dont last like the serie 7...my own opinion i am not a master!...
i read really good review abuot the Rosmary brushes...
http://www.rosemaryandco.com/
I think the problem is not the glue but you have to learn how to measure out the glue but every single modeler start with that problem....figer print it's a Classic,my firt models was a ball of glue with wings!...specially on the airplane canopy
Svarttjern
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 12:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThank you for the recommendations was really unsure on which filler and Decal Solutions to use. About the Series 7 Brushes the normal or the short ones?
It's not that the contacta glue itself is bad and most of the times it works like a charm, other times I get a big drop on a tiny partand it flows everywhere, softening the part and making surfaces take on fingerprints. now I just let the first drop out and use the applier after that, But that'S a waste of glue. I was thinking about giving the Tamiya Extra Thin a try.
The Normal one i have from 2 to 0/3 for general works and lines,the short from 0 to 0/3 just for detail and fine works were i dont need a lots of pait,but you can do everithing with the normal,also the Da Vinci is good and cheaper but they dont last like the serie 7...my own opinion i am not a master!...
i read really good review abuot the Rosmary brushes...
http://www.rosemaryandco.com/
I think the problem is not the glue but you have to learn how to measure out the glue but every single modeler start with that problem....figer print it's a Classic,my firt models was a ball of glue with wings!...specially on the airplane canopy
I checked out the site, what do you think about SERIES 401. POINTED SABLE MIXTURE I could get sizes from 3/0 to 2 for a pretty affordable price (i.e. the price of one Winsor & Newton xD), the shipping is pretty expensive though
Vicious
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 01:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I checked out the site, what do you think about SERIES 401. POINTED SABLE MIXTURE I could get sizes from 3/0 to 2 for a pretty affordable price (i.e. the price of one Winsor & Newton xD), the shipping is pretty expensive though
honestly never tried them, I prefer kolinsky sable but if you search you can find the reviews on the web "miniature brush rosmary review"
Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 05:08 PM UTC
If you're going to stick with brush painting and you are using acrylics then a wet palette will be a must. There are lots of tutorials online on how to make one.
Svarttjern
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 05:42 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If you're going to stick with brush painting and you are using acrylics then a wet palette will be a must. There are lots of tutorials online on how to make one.
Seems easy enough, thank you for the tipp
Svarttjern
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Posted: Friday, October 28, 2016 - 09:22 PM UTC
I've done a lot of reading, and it seems that the W&N Series 7 have really gone down in quality and there's a lot of competition from Raphael, Da Vinci etc. anybody here that has some experience with these?
Vicious
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Posted: Saturday, October 29, 2016 - 03:30 AM UTC
In my hand the serie7 last longer then Davinci Harbin-Kolinsky,they start to lose the tip and hair to soon for me,i was disappointed,but yes a good pencil help but in the game the must important part is you,which medium you use,thinner,how heavy you are with your hand,which job you done with it,just painting or also washes etc..?...how do you clean?...is a very personal thing
I like spend becose i like to do also figurines,i think if i stay just on AFV probably i dont try to buy the best and i stay with medium-high range
in the good brushes list you can add also "Broken Toad"
I like spend becose i like to do also figurines,i think if i stay just on AFV probably i dont try to buy the best and i stay with medium-high range
in the good brushes list you can add also "Broken Toad"
Svarttjern
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Member Since: October 10, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, October 29, 2016 - 04:46 PM UTC
Quoted Text
In my hand the serie7 last longer then Davinci Harbin-Kolinsky,they start to lose the tip and hair to soon for me,i was disappointed,but yes a good pencil help but in the game the must important part is you,which medium you use,thinner,how heavy you are with your hand,which job you done with it,just painting or also washes etc..?...how do you clean?...is a very personal thing
I like spend becose i like to do also figurines,i think if i stay just on AFV probably i dont try to buy the best and i stay with medium-high range
in the good brushes list you can add also "Broken Toad"
Well I'd do most kits, I'm not that specific. Do you mean how I clean brushes or kits? And which sizes would be must haves?
Vicious
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Posted: Saturday, October 29, 2016 - 05:34 PM UTC
Clean and take care of the brushes
Svarttjern
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Posted: Saturday, October 29, 2016 - 06:52 PM UTC
well, as I only have some really cheapo brushes ,the 3 for a buck kind, I only wash them in warm water. Bur I do know that I'm supposed to use 2 vessels with water and a bit of dish cleaner. And I do know the procedure becomes a lot more involved with natural Hair Brushes.
Vicious
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Posted: Sunday, October 30, 2016 - 02:32 AM UTC
You can find many different product or DIY ways to clean it,i do like that at every end of work session with Enamel,oils or Acrylincs:
Good Clean in Laquer thinner
Clean with Warm water and Master's Cleaner and Brush restorer... http://www.generalpencil.com/the-mastersreg-brush-cleaner-and-preserver.html you can find in Art's shops or e-bay
then i redo the tip with the same soap above
but also Vallejo (i dont know if works with enamel),Abteilung 502 and others brand have dedicated products
Have a check on youtube you find SBS or review video about everything
Good Clean in Laquer thinner
Clean with Warm water and Master's Cleaner and Brush restorer... http://www.generalpencil.com/the-mastersreg-brush-cleaner-and-preserver.html you can find in Art's shops or e-bay
then i redo the tip with the same soap above
but also Vallejo (i dont know if works with enamel),Abteilung 502 and others brand have dedicated products
Have a check on youtube you find SBS or review video about everything
SprueFarmer
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Posted: Friday, November 04, 2016 - 01:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
So far I have some files, a precision Cutter and some good superglue. I won't count the [auto-censored]ty brushes I have aswell as the almost empty Contacta professional which I'm not very happy with. What should I add to that?
Which brushes should I get? I read the article on brushes, but I'm still torn on kolinsky or synth and which sizes are essential.
I got some partly build Kits:
Challenger 2 Enhanced Armor by Trumpeter in 1/35
M-51 Super Sherman by Academy in 1/35
Messerschmitt Bf109E-4/E-1 by Airfix in 1/48
Tornado ECR ‘Tigermeet’2011/12 by Revell in 1/72
Which Vallejo colors would I need for those? As well as Thinner, and extra stuff.
Svarttjern
When you begin your nest project, you can ask for which paints to buy. When you ask your question you should describe how you desire to finish your model. Sometimes the vehicle you wish to model has had many different colors in it's service life. If possible, describe the nationality, the military unit, the date, and location that your model will represent. Typically the assembly instructions will describe this information. Sometimes you can describe which paint manufacturer and color the assembly instructions recommend, and you will receive advise on which paint to substitute for kit recommendation.
Also, it is useful to have additional paint colors which are supplemental to the colors used specifically for a project. White, black, yellow, red, dark blue, and dark brown colors can be very useful to have at hand not matter which project you are working on. You will also find Tamiya masking tape is a good product.
I like flat paint brushes more than the round brushes. The flat and filbert type brushes in the 5 mm. size are a good start for painting large areas. The broad sides can be used for wide lines and the brush can be turned and used on the narrow edge for fine lines. With a little practice, a wide to narrow line can be made with a single stroke. Small pointed round brushes are good for small details. Some modeling techniques can destroy an expensive brush so keep your old brushes for those jobs.
Gunze from Japan makes some good fillers. Look for the product named Mr. Surfacer 500 and Mr. Dissolved Putty. Tamiya makes a paste putty which is also useful. The fillers are solvent based and work well, but they take some time to dry when used. I do not recommend the water based acrylic putties.
Svarttjern
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Posted: Friday, November 04, 2016 - 01:23 AM UTC
You're right, the Airfix kit's have callouts for Humbrol, the Trumpeter has callouts fpr Gunze/MR. Colour and partially for Vallejo and Tamiya and for the Academy Sherman I couldn't tell, it lists some colors but notby which manufacturer. I know and use the color converter app but as a beginner I felt a bit overwhelmed by choosing colors by eye, because a lot of the called Humbrol colors don't have a vallejo counterpart in the app. for the BF109 I wanted to go with the E-$ variant flown by Poschenrieder, for the Challenger II Olive Drab is called but I've seen walkarounds in Desert Camo same for the M-51 Sherman but Iraqui Sand would be more appropriate I think. Black, White, Red, Dark Blue and some Browns are used in any Model I guess, looking at the sheets.
SprueFarmer
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Posted: Friday, November 04, 2016 - 10:25 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You're right, the Airfix kit's have callouts for Humbrol, the Trumpeter has callouts fpr Gunze/MR. Colour and partially for Vallejo and Tamiya and for the Academy Sherman I couldn't tell, it lists some colors but notby which manufacturer. I know and use the color converter app but as a beginner I felt a bit overwhelmed by choosing colors by eye, because a lot of the called Humbrol colors don't have a vallejo counterpart in the app. for the BF109 I wanted to go with the E-$ variant flown by Poschenrieder, for the Challenger II Olive Drab is called but I've seen walkarounds in Desert Camo same for the M-51 Sherman but Iraqui Sand would be more appropriate I think. Black, White, Red, Dark Blue and some Browns are used in any Model I guess, looking at the sheets.
Have you tried the Vallejo paint web site http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com
Vallejo has a color chart which might help. http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/2d567ed91fb58cdc74108685395ac19a/CC070-Rev14.pdf
Also try search engines to look for model building blogs. Often a modeler has built a kit and has advice about paint colors, but also may write about assembly difficulties and how to solve them. For the Bf109, you could find advice at http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/ or try http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/ Try to search for kit A05120A for best results.
Also you may want to find a model club where you can ask questions about materials and techniques. Model building can be more than just assembling a kit to place an object on your shelf. Many people enjoy learning the methods and history of their models as well as meeting up at clubs and internet sites too.
Svarttjern
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Posted: Tuesday, November 08, 2016 - 10:40 PM UTC
Time to update this thread.
I stocked up quite a bit now and would like everyone for their suggestions so far.
I bought:
A nice set of Tweezers (5 different ones)
Some Humbrol and Vallejo Putty
Some Tamyia Extra Thin
Couldn't get Microsol and Microset, so I got the vallejo ones for the time being
Some Vallejo Varnish, Thinner and a Assortment of Model Color's
Da Vinci Maestro Series 35 in 0,1,2,3,5
DA VINCI NOVA Series 1375 Cattounge in 4 and 8
I still need some more color's and I bet I forgot to order something again.
I stocked up quite a bit now and would like everyone for their suggestions so far.
I bought:
A nice set of Tweezers (5 different ones)
Some Humbrol and Vallejo Putty
Some Tamyia Extra Thin
Couldn't get Microsol and Microset, so I got the vallejo ones for the time being
Some Vallejo Varnish, Thinner and a Assortment of Model Color's
Da Vinci Maestro Series 35 in 0,1,2,3,5
DA VINCI NOVA Series 1375 Cattounge in 4 and 8
I still need some more color's and I bet I forgot to order something again.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, November 14, 2016 - 07:06 PM UTC
Just a small comment about glue, or rather solvent for styrene.
I stopped buying the small bottles of glue or solvent (ultra thin or whatever you want to call it).
Now I only use liquid nail polish remover (a lot cheaper than model glue et.c).
The ingredient you should look for is ethyl acetate. Look for the cheaper brands marked as acetone free without oil.
German Wikipedia with more names for ethyl acetate:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essigs%C3%A4ureethylester
Sometimes it also hides under the label ethylis acetas ;-)
Use a small brush to pick up a little solvent and apply to the joint, the easiest and fastest way is to press the parts together first and then apply solvent to the joint.
Remember: SMALL brush and no drops hanging from the hairs of the brush.
Most model glues/solvents contain ethyl acetate so the nail polish remover is almost model glue packaged in a more economic container. Works fine as paint remover to clean brushes as well After all, it's used to remove nail lacquer ....
/ Robin
I stopped buying the small bottles of glue or solvent (ultra thin or whatever you want to call it).
Now I only use liquid nail polish remover (a lot cheaper than model glue et.c).
The ingredient you should look for is ethyl acetate. Look for the cheaper brands marked as acetone free without oil.
German Wikipedia with more names for ethyl acetate:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essigs%C3%A4ureethylester
Sometimes it also hides under the label ethylis acetas ;-)
Use a small brush to pick up a little solvent and apply to the joint, the easiest and fastest way is to press the parts together first and then apply solvent to the joint.
Remember: SMALL brush and no drops hanging from the hairs of the brush.
Most model glues/solvents contain ethyl acetate so the nail polish remover is almost model glue packaged in a more economic container. Works fine as paint remover to clean brushes as well After all, it's used to remove nail lacquer ....
/ Robin
Svarttjern
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Posted: Monday, November 14, 2016 - 07:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Just a small comment about glue, or rather solvent for styrene.
I stopped buying the small bottles of glue or solvent (ultra thin or whatever you want to call it).
Now I only use liquid nail polish remover (a lot cheaper than model glue et.c).
The ingredient you should look for is ethyl acetate. Look for the cheaper brands marked as acetone free without oil.
German Wikipedia with more names for ethyl acetate:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essigs%C3%A4ureethylester
Sometimes it also hides under the label ethylis acetas ;-)
Use a small brush to pick up a little solvent and apply to the joint, the easiest and fastest way is to press the parts together first and then apply solvent to the joint.
Remember: SMALL brush and no drops hanging from the hairs of the brush.
Most model glues/solvents contain ethyl acetate so the nail polish remover is almost model glue packaged in a more economic container. Works fine as paint remover to clean brushes as well After all, it's used to remove nail lacquer ....
/ Robin
Thank you for the tipp. So something like this Amazon link should work fine?
varanusk
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Posted: Monday, November 14, 2016 - 11:59 PM UTC
Regarding glue, I use also a pvc tube cleaner which has MEK as one of its components. Not very healthy but cheap and quick
Anyway I keep using Revell as well, when I can not keep the part in place while applying the glue. To avoid overspreading I put it on a small metal plate and slightly dip the edge of the part.
Anyway I keep using Revell as well, when I can not keep the part in place while applying the glue. To avoid overspreading I put it on a small metal plate and slightly dip the edge of the part.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Tuesday, November 15, 2016 - 12:31 AM UTC
I don't know. I can't find any content list showing the ingredients. A polish remover can be 'Acetone free' without containing ethyl acetate, there are other solvents as well (buthyl acetate for instance). The best option is to visit a cosmetics shop and check the ingredients before buying.
On the other hand, if you have someone close to you which uses nail polish you could test different products until you find one which works fine with styrene and give away the other bottles.
When I visited the cosmetics shop and said that I was looking for a polish remover containing ethyl acetate they gave me strange looks
/ Robin
EDIT: I just managed to find a better image which shows that the main active ingredient is ethyl acetate.
That bottle should last for MANY years .....
http://www.deluxebuy.de/Fluessigkeiten/Nagellackentferner-mit-ORANGEN-Duft-1-Liter-acetonfrei::1241.html
Svarttjern
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Posted: Tuesday, November 15, 2016 - 10:29 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I don't know. I can't find any content list showing the ingredients. A polish remover can be 'Acetone free' without containing ethyl acetate, there are other solvents as well (buthyl acetate for instance). The best option is to visit a cosmetics shop and check the ingredients before buying.
On the other hand, if you have someone close to you which uses nail polish you could test different products until you find one which works fine with styrene and give away the other bottles.
When I visited the cosmetics shop and said that I was looking for a polish remover containing ethyl acetate they gave me strange looks
/ Robin
EDIT: I just managed to find a better image which shows that the main active ingredient is ethyl acetate.
That bottle should last for MANY years .....
http://www.deluxebuy.de/Fluessigkeiten/Nagellackentferner-mit-ORANGEN-Duft-1-Liter-acetonfrei::1241.html
And my Kits will smell awesome XD