Tools & Supplies
Discussions on the latest and greatest tools, glues, and gadgets.
Discussions on the latest and greatest tools, glues, and gadgets.
Hosted by Matt Leese
Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty
straightedge

Member Since: January 18, 2004
entire network: 1,352 Posts
KitMaker Network: 571 Posts

Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2004 - 12:16 AM UTC
I bought a 4.5 oz. tube of it the other day at an automotive supply store for almost $3.00, and last night I tried it on my Marder 3 which had a good size sink hole on the chassis going from one of the suspension arms all the way to the bottom on both sides, so last night I put a drop on and wiped it with a plastic card to get it as smooth as I could then left it over night. Then I got up this morning and sanded it smooth and it worked perfectly for what I intended it too. Now small jobs like that it will work great, but I would not try to use it for anything else. The Bondo has the characteristics like glue, it melts the skin a little to help it bond, which is a good thing cause you don't want it to separate from the plastic when your through. But Don't try to make a big ball of it to put in the nose of an aircraft for weight or anything like that, cause you might come back to find your aircraft or what ever has no nose. But I believe hobby putty will do the same thing, but this is almost a life times supply for the same price as the small tube. For the people like me that don't have access to a good hobby shop close by this is the thing. Hope this helps someone.
ZoomieE7

Member Since: October 17, 2002
entire network: 145 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2004 - 12:56 AM UTC
For the same ammount of money (and you wouldn't have had to wait overnight, you could have done your sanding in 15 minutes) you could have used "Supafilla": talcum powder and medium viscosity superglue mixed 50/50. In fact, your Bondo may yet shrink further as it "gasses out," and you could end up with a noticeable depression at your filled point. Supafilla doesn't shrink AT ALL, and you can use it for fixing weights, and major re-contouring, without having to build up in layers. And unlike putty, it adds structural strength, and there is no need to bridge big gaps with plastic, wire, whatever. All you need is something to hold it in place as it cures. Try it, and your Bondo tube will be relegated to the trash can.
straightedge

Member Since: January 18, 2004
entire network: 1,352 Posts
KitMaker Network: 571 Posts

Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2004 - 07:05 PM UTC
I get in no hurry, the reason I let it set all night is cause that was the last thing I done before I went to bed, it could of been ready long before the next day, and it hasn't shrank, and with the cost of super glue, it would cost a couple hundred bucks worth to equal the same as I got for three dollars for the bondo. I'm for saving money, now I guess if you only got a couple minutes then use the superglue, but I got way more time then I got money, now the one piece I had it only took just a speck on the gun mount, and by the time I got done eating it was ready to sand, cause I put it on then fixed something to eat then came back and sanded, and it worked fine for me.
straightedge

Member Since: January 18, 2004
entire network: 1,352 Posts
KitMaker Network: 571 Posts

Posted: Friday, February 20, 2004 - 12:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For big sink holes on a smooth surface this putty works fine, but like on filling the gap on figures then I'd use the filla, cause you have more control, but big smooth areas I'd use the putty, I guess it all depends on how much money you have, now me I try to save when I can, but there is a few times you can't saveI get in no hurry, the reason I let it set all night is cause that was the last thing I done before I went to bed, it could of been ready long before the next day, and it hasn't shrank, and with the cost of super glue, it would cost a couple hundred bucks worth to equal the same as I got for three dollars for the bondo. I'm for saving money, now I guess if you only got a couple minutes then use the superglue, but I got way more time then I got money, now the one piece I had it only took just a speck on the gun mount, and by the time I got done eating it was ready to sand, cause I put it on then fixed something to eat then came back and sanded, and it worked fine for me.
straightedge

Member Since: January 18, 2004
entire network: 1,352 Posts
KitMaker Network: 571 Posts

Posted: Friday, February 20, 2004 - 05:58 AM UTC
I tried to use the Bondo on my little figures on the arms that I put on, and it got away from me a little bit, I wasn't as careful as I should of been, but to my surprise, I found out that alcohol wipes it right off, so I was grateful there, even a little that had been setting a couple days on my pack 40 it took it off to, so you do have a backup if it does get away from you, now the alcohol didn't hurt my plastic, but I would always try first on trying anything new in a place that won't show, cause not everything is the same. I used them little wipes that you use to clean your skin to put on patches. The ingredients are Isopropyl alcohol, Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, which I believe is the same as rubbing alcohol, cause that is what the druggest sold me to replace when I ran out of wipes, but now it did work perfect on the side of the chassis, just one application, then sanded and it is as smooth as the rest of the chassis, and no more sink like it had, so I would recomend it if you like to save money.
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