I remember reading a while back at some site where this guy said he was a chemist, and talked about all the ingrediants of what glues have in them, and he mentioned that Ethylacetate Superior is the best glue for styrene then any other glue out there, and it was also the cheapest, and I also remember him mentioning that it only came in 32 oz bottles, but I was wondering if anybody else had read about this, and know of a place that you could find it to buy, the thing is I don't remember where he said you could find such of a thing, that it's original use is not for putting models together, but he did say it was the best for this application, now I was smart enough to write down the name, but forgot the rest, could anybody help fill in the blanks. Thank You Straightedge

Hi Straightedge.
Actually I have been reading a bit about using etylacetate. A lot of modellers here in sweden use it. At the local hobby fair last October ... the Stockholm IPMS had a display and some guys were building for show. One of them was kind enough to show and explain how it works.
It can be bought at Pharmacies here .... Im not sure what the intended use is, either. Costs around $15 dollars for a 1litre bottle (stockholm price).
The big advantage of it, is the speed it works and the zero glue marks. You line up the 2 pieces to be glued perfectly. Then with a brush, paint the etylacetate over the seam. By capillery action the etylacetate flows into the seam and the rest evaporates ... very quickly.
Dont have any fingers or tape or clamps in the area or it will flow under them also and get very messy. It leaves a perfectly glued seam .. with zero visable glue stain. It doesnt really work by glueing one side and then placing the second. Most of it will have evaporated and you´ll get a bad bond.
It can also be used for brushing over surfaces and then stippling when soft to get a textured effect. I also believe it can be used to clean out airbrushes ........ non plastic ones anyway. Dont take this as 100% right to I talk to somebody and confirm this though.
Another use is to thin puttys if tey are a bit dry.

I was under the assumption that it welded the plastic together, and you say it won't leave a mess if you brush it on, cause when I read that artical he just hit the highlights and never went into detail on anything, only good and cheap, and not many people know about it, and that it would be a lot better if it came in smaller sizes.

Hello Plasticbattle, have you been able to find anymore on this Ethyl Acetate, I've been to a couple drug stores in my area, plus all our hardware stores and nobody knows what I'm talking about, they said if they had an idea of what it was used for they might be able to help me find it, and with this being such a good model glue, it seems nobody knows about it, so if you could give a little more insight so I can find it to try myself, I would surely appreciate it, we looked through the glues, then we went to plumbing thinking of the plastic pipe, but still no answer, and with hearing the American dollar being devalued a little more it might be a little cheaper here.

Hi straightedge. I´ll ask on the Swedish IPMS site where some of those guys use it.
Let you know, when I know!!

That will be great, cause this super glue is killing me on price, and this testors liquid isn't worth a hoot.

Have you tried the Tamiya Extra thin cement???

I did find a source
http://oxygen.chem.uidaho.edu/chemstores/ChemStores.htm
http://www.pro-outdoors.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-460008.html?L+scstore+wfwf2432ff36a736+1058391793

Hello Matt, this is the best answer so far, and that sounds like a real good price from Chemistry Stores, but I couldn't see how to contact them to see how much it would cost to ship it to me. The Pro Outdoors I emailed them to see how much it would cost to send the 2 oz. squeeze bottle they have but I haven't heard from them yet. The Chemistry Store now $5.49 for little over a pint sounds real good, even their bigger quanities, but a pint should last for a real long time, just if I knew how to contact them to see if they do ship. Thank You very much Matt.

No problem......Let me know if the stuff works out

You want to be pretty careful with this stuff. Don't use it around the furnace or water heater...
Linkage below.

Shaun

http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/~hmc/hsci/chemicals/ethyl_acetate.html

OK.... I don't like the NO OPEN FLAME NEEDED TO IGNITE thingy.......

Well Matt that Pro outdoor fizzled out they are liquidating everything and all they have left is the whole kit with ethyl acetate in it for forty sum dollars, and they don't have it separate anymore, and I never did find out how to get hold of Chemistry Stores.

No Matt, I never got a chance to use Tamiya yet, that hobby shop I stopped at in Lorain only had Testors liquid, but I went to our local shop and I seen they have come a long way, they even have tank models now, but it has been a long time sense I was there, but now I will be able to get a lot more then they had the time before I was there, but to get back to the ethyl acetate, I am striking out all over, I even went to Google to try to find a place that sells it, and every place I've found only sells it by the tanker load, which is about 8,500 gallons at a time, cause they just e-mailed me back telling me they sell it only by the tanker, cause I asked them if they would sell it by the pint or quart. So we are still looking for a place that will sell it for a reasonable amount, by the pint or quart. I thank you for trying though.

Just about everything we use to put together our models is highly flammable, and did you read the part that any, and all could be inaccurate on what they said, now we do know it evaporates very quickly, and we know it is flammable, but so are our paints, glues, thinners, any petroleum based product, now I wouldn't be modeling down by my gas water heater, but in the next room it wouldn't be any harm, nobody should have an open flame next to petroleum based products, cause it is the fumes that ignite, not the actual liquid, have you ever seen anybody drop a lit match in a full cup of gasoline, and it put the match out, that is because it never got to the fumes, but if the cup is almost empty it has room for fumes, then it will ignite same way with a gas tank on a car, it is the car with the almost empty tank that explodes in a wreck, we all should know to keep our working areas well ventilated, and never let fumes build up. I've hauled petroleum based paint, and I had to placard it flammable liquid which is a hazardous product to the government now. Sorry about the long speech, but I wanted to get across that all we use is dangerous if used improperly, and don't keep our working space well ventilated.

True........ Tenax evaporates the quickest out of any glue on my bench......

When I stopped at our local hobby shop I tried to get some Tenax, but he was all sold out, he said he sells it ten to one over any other glue he had, and the way I've heard it sounds like it is close to the ethyl actate. Plastic Battle said they brush it on and no harm to the plastic outside, but where it is touching it welded it together, now I've never heard that before then, just that chemist saying it was the best. I wished I could still work, I'd find another trucker that was hauling it to tap me off a bottle or two while they are unloading.