I just received a set of Spade Ace, white metal tracks. I can not figure out how to cut the steel wire that comes with them. For brass, I have a set of toenail clippers. No joy. I can use wire clippers, but would be unable to cut them flush with the tracks. Does anybody have a suggestion as to how to resolve this situation?

I took them to Michael's and bought pins that fit,used wire cutters to trim the excess closr,and filed them even.

You should be able to find a flush-cut wire nipper at any good hardware store-- I have a miniature one I bought from Ace Hardware several years ago that works great--- you can also find them in the floral or beading departments of Michaels or Hobby Lobby, and I'm sure Lowes or Home Depot carry them too. If you go on-line you can check Micro Mark or Model Expo for flush cut model railroad rail cutters/nippers. After cutting steel wire, you still may need to clean up the ends a little with a file or Dremel tool. It will still take a lot more force to cut steel wire than brass, so depending on how many links you have, you might end up with a sore hand if you do them all at once. perhaps you could just substitute the steel wire with brass wire and go back to the nail clippers.
VR Russ

Russ: I found an old side cutter that I picked up at Harbor Freight. Works wonders!

Matt,
Excellent! I find HF tools to be less than quality, but cheap enough you can replace them when needed. I do replace steel track pins when I run across them because they can "split" the track links too, unless I've drilled out the holes, a task I really hate. One other problem I've found is they will rust (I live in a humid environment), but if you are weathering the tracks, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. I was just working a old 1/32 white metal FT17 the other day and the pins had actually rusted in the bag, I decided to replace them with brass.
VR, Russ

I will be putting a dab of ca glue on the ends, after blackening the track. I'm hoping this will deter immanent rust.

Matt,
Blacken-it is an acid based blackening agent-- it will certainly promote rust in ferrous based metals, so beware of that. I did a diorama of a Mark IV tank at Cambrai storming a German trench-- the barbed wire was a Verlinden nickel based product, but I used steel wire for the twisted post barbed wire supports. About a week after it was completed, I noticed rust forming along the wire, and on a the wire support stakes. I thought wow---that really looks realistic and great, but a few days later the barbed wire was gone! Rusted completely away, the thicker wire support stakes were still there, but we're very fragile. So just be aware that Blacken-it will attack the metal (it doe t seem to have the same effect on white metal tracks though). It will attack brass wire too-- but differently with things going green. Since the Mark IV diorama, I've had some success at washing the blackening agent off with water by rinsing it in the sink for several minutes, seems to get rid of the excess agent which continues to etch.
VR Russ

Being stainless steel and a bit thicker than scale barbed wire, I hope I can avoid the rust issue.