How do you open panel lines? I've used my X-Acto Knife and tried scribing with a needle but it takes a lot of time and sometimes result in bad openings. Any advice/tips?

you can buy proper scribbing knives I think micro mark will sell them

Any other alternative? It's hard to buy online in my country.

If you have a rotary tool you can try thinning the plastic from the back first. Then the scribing with the back of a #11 blade will be easier. You want to use the back of the blade, not the sharp edge. The sharp edge will cut and wedge its way through, the back with remove a squared off channel.

One thing is patience is a virtue. It can be done, but it take quite some time.
Another thing to consider is that the panel may have to be rebuilt from sheet styrene. I've had that happen to me. In getting the overall shape of the panel reworked the inside panel was ruined. If you can do this you can etche out a shape a bit smaller then once opened up you can use a file and smooth out the opening.

If you're cutting out a lot of panels, it might be worth your while to get a second kit. Use one for the doors/panels, rough cutting away the outside stuff and one for the hull, so you don't have to be as careful alout the the access panel itself.

Thanks guys! I heard from a site that they've used a diamond cutter? Anyone has used this?

Howdy shonen,

If I'm understanding you correctly, you are wanting to be able to 'open up' certain panels or sections of your model so they pivot or remove entirely...correct?
If that is indeed your question, allow me to introduce you to the 'Jeweler's Saw'! I used to use one when I built wooden sailing ships years ago.
Essentially it is a Coping saw with a microscopic, hairstrand-thin cutting blade that jeweler's normally use to make precise, ultrathin cuts in...you guessed it, jewelery! The advantage of the jewelers saw is it cuts an extremely thin path, leaves no 'tearout', and does not disrupt the surrounding material. The one disadvantage of the saw is, geting used to maintaining your desired direction. This will require a wee bit of practice.
To give you an example. I have been working on two Abrams simultaneously for the Abrams Build coming up. The first one is the USMC M1A1HA . I wanted to show the #6 side skirt in the 'open' position. (Dragon makes the kit with the #1, and the #2 side skirt as seperate pieces, but not the #6 skirt). Anyway, I took my jeweler's saw and very carefully cut up thru the seperation lines on the cast side skirt and seperated the #'s 5 and 6 so it will appear hinged and open.
Now, on the Tamiya M1A1 I did the very same thing, but I also am opening up several of the moulded in doors and fuel caps using the saw! So far I haven't seen anybody do this (although I'm sure somebody could find an example if they looked hard enough).
As I say, it takes a bit of practice to 'control' the direction of the blade properly, but it's worth the practice.
HTH

Tread.

Oh, BTW, to cut out panels or doors where there is no outer edge, just drill a very small hole right along the line where you want to cut, slip your jewelers blade up thru the hole, reattach to the saw itself, and begin cutting. My only caution....cut verrrrrrrrrrrry slowly. Don't rush it.

Perfecto Treadhead! Exactly the thing I need! Can you show me a pic of that tool so I could look out for it? Thanks for everything!

I remembered another low tech tip I've seen people use - Dental Floss.

Dril a pilot hole in one corner, thread the floss through and use the floss as a saw. The modeler clamped the main piece so both hands were free.

I've never tried it- but its been used.

I may give that a try. BTW, I think that style would be time consuming