Taking my first steps in 1/350 scale, I am struggling to glue tiny parts (photo etch and plastic-plastic) together without overspill or chlorosis (superglue white residue).

I am using the following glues:
- Cheap superglue:
Yes, I know it's the generic cheap stuff, but it's been handy because it comes in a ten-pack of 10ml tubes, so even if one dries up it doesn't matter.
Still it seems to thicken up easily then the blob is just too big for tiny work and the chlorosis is bad. I will try opening a new one and storing it in the fridge. I also have the accelerant.
Maybe I need some extra thin superglue?

- Tamiya Liquid Cement 40ml.
The bottle is wide and stable, and nicely heavy, but the brush is huge! It's about 3mm diameter so is often bigger than the part I am trying to glue.
Do people trim down the brush on this?

-Gator Grip glue
This seems to be a nice glue but takes a long time to dry. At least it dries clear so is my only glue useful for tiny PE at the moment.

Does anyone have advice on how to improve this?

Hi James,
If I remember correctly Tamiya extra thin comes with a pointed brush and works very good.

For some small PE parts I use also clear varnish, which is good enough to hold it and leaves no marks

Hi James.

I reckon you are best to ditch those small tubes of super glue- they won't offer much control over how much comes out and it sounds like that is causing you problems. My advice would be to look for super-glue designed for modelers like the Rocket range from Deluxe Materials or Zap A Gap's range. The bottles they come in offer more control when putting it on a part and you can get nozzles for the bottles that don't clog and offer an even more precise way of putting the glue on. Medium or Thin Viscosity glues are usually best when dealing with small model parts and an accelerant as you have is always handy. If you are having trouble getting a hold of the brands I mentioned then Loctite do a range of super glue in bottles with nozzles/openings that would offer better control than the small tubes.

As for plastic glues you should try and find some Tamiya Extra Thin which has a green top with a very small applicator brush. Other brands (such as Revell) offer bottles with fine nozzles for precise placement of the glue but Tamiya's Extra Thin is one of the best choices out there for modelers.

Carlos also pointed out that clear varnish (such as Future/Pledge Floor Wax) will glue very small PE parts with relative ease.

Hope this helps.

Thanks guys,

I'll try trimming down the tamiya liquid cement brush and if that doesn't work, get some of their extra fine glue.

The Roket glues look excellent, especially this applicator:
https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/21-roket-glue-tips-5060243901408.html

I wonder if you can put that on the superglue bottle, use plastic cement to make an airtight (albeit permanent) fit, and you'd have a superglue container that almost no air will get into?

I rarely use the little brushes that come in the bottles. For some things I use the smallest "microbrushes", for others I use home made pickup tools made from a needle stuck into a wood skewer for a handle. Last, I like the ones made by photo etch by hot tools. Sometimes, just a piece of stiff small diameter wire works well.









EJ

Have you tried Gator Grip , it's an acrylic hobby glue . Takes longer to cure than superglue but is water based so before it sets can be cleaned up with water .

Hi James,

'Tamiya Extra Thin Cement’ for sure; it's a thinner formula and comes with a smaller brush than the regular cement.

As for CA glue, I’ve been using 'LocTite Gel Control’ — sometimes 'LocTite Ultra Liquid Control’ depending on the assembly. I never apply CA directly from the tip … instead, I put a dab on a piece of tape (replace the cap immediately); I then use a toothpick for application to the part. Hint: Since I’m a klutz, I use a piece of tile as a safety base where I'll place a piece of brightly colored (blue or green) painters’ tape; that way, I know exactly where that dab of CA is lurking ... so it doesn't end up on my elbow!

A CA accelerator such as 'Zap – Zip Kicker’ (PT-715 liquid w/pump) can be useful at times. Ditch the pump and dip a toothpick in instead, then hold it near the part — careful, strong stuff!

As others have stated above, 'Gator's Grip Hobby Cement' is also very handy to have around; It comes in two versions … ‘Regular’ and 'Thin Blend’ — I mostly use the latter of the two.

HTH. Happy modeling!

—mike

Have you tried putting the super glue on a piece of glass ?

Hi Edmund,

If your question was directed to me ... then yes, similar i.e., the glossy tile I mentioned above. I use the colorful tape primarily as a visual identifier on my workbench. I have really bad eyes — no depth of field left. And I find it easy to just rip the tape off and toss it when finished.

—mike

I said that because it keeps the super glue liquid a lot longer .You are not alone , I have the same problems as you said , and then the hands shake so applying the glue can be tricky at times .

One more vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. Excellent stuff. And as already mentioned, the bottle comes with a brush that's small enough to be actually useable. Just about every bottle-integrated cement brushes tends to be ridiculously massive for it's job.
And even though the brush in the bottle is good, I have a dedicated 00 size brush for the Extra Thin.

I also keep bottle of Revell Contacta Professional around. Thickish liquid cement with a nice metal tube applicator.

For super glue, I like Zap-a-Gap CA+. The bottle has a smaller cap inside the big one and seems to do a good job at keeping the CA useable for quite a long time.

Like Mike, I got Zap's Zip Kicker for those occasions when I need a near-instantenous bond. Just don't apply it directly from the bottle. Instead, squirt a little into a plastic medicine measuring cup (I use 30ml ones) and apply a suitable amount from there. If you want to use a brush for that, use one that's good for nothing else, as it gets clogged up really quickly and easily.

And after the extra thin is used up you can put that brush onto an old paintbrush handle , it's actually pretty good .