Hi Folks! I apologize in advance if it seems like I'm beating the proverbial dead horse with this post.

As you may be aware if you've already read my previous post in the introduction section of these forums, I'm just getting back into this hobby after a 40-some year hiatus. The last Tamiya armor kits I built back in the 1970's used what I believe is nowadays commonly referred to as "rubber-band" tracks. So perhaps you can imagine, understand, and even appreciate my utter horror when yesterday the USPS delivered my first Dragon kit (one that I picked up relatively cheap on eBay so I could sort of get my hand back into things) and I beheld what I can only describe as looking to me like the Sasquatch of armor model building ~ Dragon Magic Tracks. Sorry ~ no offense intended to you folks who are Magic Tracks proponents....

I blame myself because I know I should have done my homework in advance of bidding on this kit. I didn't look beyond or dig deeper than the 90% rating that Armorama gave this particular kit. Using the search capability of this site, I now notice that there have been several previous posts on this topic and I do intend to try to find the time to read them. However, my real-time questions (because things do evolve as folks come up with new techniques and the market does change and expand) are basically these:

1. What's the best way to build these suckers? Let me say upfront that something deep down in me absolutely abhors the idea of gluing tracks to a vehicle or of gluing the tracks together so that the end product turns out stiffer than the collars of the white dress shirts my mom used to starch for me when I went to Catholic school. Now don't get me wrong ~ it's not my intent to run my models across the carpet like they're toys. But I would prefer to have my tracks workable, if that's the correct term to use.

2. What's currently availabe to us folks in the US as "workable" alternatives to Magic Tracks? Trying to do my own Internet research in this area has been frustrating. I've seen some niffty-looking metal tracks made by companies like Friulmodel, Kaizen, and I believe it's Modelkasten. But the cost of these track kits (nearly twice what I paid on eBay for the model itself) is prohibitive for me. I saw some references to some products (I can't remember whether they're resin, plastic, or rubber) made by HobbyBoss, but their website isn't in English. That's similar to another problem I've run into with several of the European sources I've tried to research ~ either their sites aren't in English, or if they are, they don't have a currency conversion function on their website which would show what the Euro list price is in US dollars. I did run across a review of what I seem to recall were some nice looking resin tracks that received a very positive review from a fellow named Terry Ashley at PMMS (Perth Military Modeling Site) in Australia. But I've been unable to reach him by enail; and the email I sent to the company that supposedly manufactures these tracks, WW II Productions, came back as "undeliverable." I've seen some things on various dealer websites that look attractive, but I can't seem to get an answer to a basic question: will what you market fit my particular model because it's generic enough that it will fit any Dragon, Tamiya, etc. kit of a particular vehicle? Put more clearly and specifically, will something that's labeled as made to fit a Dragon Marder III Ausf M kit (DML6464) also fit a Tamiya Marder III Ausf M kit (TAM35355)? And will that same track also fir a Dragon Marder II kit (DML6262)? I hope you get the picture and point I'm trying to make.

Now, it wasn't my intent to have this post sound like or turn into a rant; but if I sound frustrated, I am. So much so that I've made a vow to myself not to even look at another Dragon kit that contains Magic Tracks until I get this issue and my 2 questions above totally vetted and answered to my satisfaction. It does help to share on forums like this where people appreciate, understand, and maybe even sympathize with my dilema. When I try to talk to my wife about this, she just rolls her eyes and/or looks at me like I have lobsters crawling out of my ears (LOL!)

Anyone out there care to extend me a helping hand here? I would be very grateful and appreciative. Thanks!!!

I can never really decide if I like magic tracks or rubber band tracks. I've messed up magic tracks before. The tank looked like a drunk mechanic got a hold of it. But the result's I've seen from other guys show's them to be amazing. Rubber band tracks are forgiving but I've broken the sprockets trying to get them on and making them look real I have never accomplished.

Here is my advice: the links that are separate, put them on a strip of the tape you use for masking. This way they act like they are already connected so you can form them around the area you want. Check for fit. Put some glue on their undersides. Be sparing with the glue. You don't want any on the tape. Then place them where you want them and leave them until the glue is nice and hard. Remove tape and enjoy! Repeat as necessary. Unsure if you should paint/ weather before or after application. Maybe experiment on a cheap model first?

Also, my disclaimer is that I have never done this myself but I have seen it in magazines and how-to instructionals so it's something worth considering.

I know frustration is half the fun of building but, as my grandfather used to say, "ya gotta f@*k SOMETHING up." Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Use a flat piece of wood with 2 grooves cut into. secure a strip of wood along one edge, then drill two holes in a second strip of wood that aligns with the grooves you have cut, attach this to the board with bolts secured with butterfly nuts. This allows you to alter the space between the strips of wood for various track widths. If you do not want to go to this trouble; you can get by with a ruler or a strip of wood to keep the track run true; however I like having the ease with which this simple tool keeps the tracks alligned.

Insert a link at each end of the channel you have created and close the channel up to the point where the links move freely along the channel. Once all of the wheels are on the vehicle of choice create a run of links in the channel and use liquid glue such a Humbrol Polly or Tamiya thin to glue that run. Let the track run stiffen and then apply the track partially around the drive wheel and over the top of the road wheels/return rollers and then under the wheels back to the drive wheel. Make sure you apply the track run in the correct direction. place a piece of tape on the tracks where they meet on the drive wheel to completely secure the track run to the model. Use tissue paper to impart track sag where needed and allow everything to set up; I recommend at least 24 hours. You can then remove the tracks from the model for painting before reapplying them to the model.

Thanks Mark!!

Assembling MT'S are not bad once you do a couple.You must factor them into your build.For example can you fit them back on after you add the fender or not.Try some if the bigger ones T-34 Panther or Tiger are easier to handle then Panzer I and II which are really small.

The DS tracks are decent,better then the old rubber bands but not perfect.

Of course Fruils and other metals are fantastic but not everyone could add 35-50 dollars to each build.

Until recently, I would assemble the MT along a straight edge. I prefer Model Master glue, with the steel applicator. It bonds very well, while leaving you plenty of work time. Assemble ten to twelve links, by applying the cement to one side of the join and push the next link into place. I allow something like 5-10 minutes, after I have completed one of these assemblies. You should build the upper part of the run, first and start at either the idler wheel or sprocket. Gently manipulate the tracks into the desired shape, using said gear as a starting point. Allow another 10-15, before repeating the process. After you have completed the upper run, say midway around both the sprocket and idler, allow at least 30 minutes to cure. You can use the same method to build the lower run. You will want to leave the sprocket, idler wheel and return rollers loose, until it is time to attach the tracks to the rest of the build. Allow at least eight hours, before handling.
There are plenty of alternatives. Your best bet is to just search for the style of track you want, on eBay. You don't have to purchase from them. But, it will give you a starting point.

John, Welcome back to modeling! ... Laughing with you, not at you!

On my return to modeling, I started out with a tracked kit (DML 6545). I stumbled through the whole assembly and eventually got the 'MagicTracks' assembled, painted, installed and weathered ... and they were on backwards! #$%&*!!! ... Could have happened with Rubber-band tracks as well though!

—mike

Hi John. Welcome back to modeling. Similar to you, I got back into modeling after a VERY long hiatus (not quite 40 years, but close). I have been 'involved' in the hobby (not quite building at first, but researching, buying tools, etc.) for maybe 5 years now. I was absolutely STUNNED at the way modeling had advanced over those decades, with the details of kits, the incredible amount of 'aftermarket' items available for everything from planes to tanks, snd the sophistication of it all.

I started out with the thought that, while I wanted to build airplanes, I figured armor models (tanks in particular) would be more 'forgiving' of errors, such as seams and gaps, and that if I messed up those aspects of a model, then I could somehow 'cover up my errors' with weathering, dirt/dust. etc. Of course, I rapidly went wild with procuring many, many tank models, and now i have quite a collection of unbuilt tanks and similar, with a handful of planes, too.

My first 2 tanks used the DS or 'rubber band' tracks. These were a Tamiya Challenger 2, and a Tasca Sherman. The Challenger's tracks are pretty much hidden under the side skirts and the Sherman, I was told, had 'live' tracks, which means that the tracks did not 'sag', and the recommendations here were to use the kit tracks, which I thought would work well. And both of them did. The next tank was a Dragon Tiger I. I became convinced that the Fruil (or is it Friul?) metal, workable tracks were what I needed. Expensive? Yes! But capable of modeling a WWII German tank, where the tracks had sag, and that these tracks would do so of their own accord? Also yes. I went that route, and loved it. My latest tank is a modern M1A1 AIM Abrams tank. It, too, has side skirts that cover up a lot of the tracks. I tried the Magic Tracks. And hated them! I freely admit that my patience was not sufficient, and I found that the tracks fell apart on me when I tried painting and weathering. Plus, they just seemed a little 'clunky' to me. I bought s a set of the AFV Club tracks for it, but realized that the 'end pins' had no method to be secured on the tracks, and would fall off unless secured somehow (glue?) which would defeat the purpose. I didn't build them, but watched videos and read posts. I finally decided to get a set (well, many sets) of Bronco tracks for the M1A1/M1A2 tanks. These are GREAT, but VERY time intensive. They are plastic, but take 7 individual pieces to make one link. But darn if they are not the best thing going, despite the time you need to take building and painting them. I also can recommend the AFV Club tracks for an early Tiger I, which only take 2 pieces per link.

So, if you have a WWII German subject, I must recommend Fruil tracks. Or some of the other 'workables', such as the AFV Club ones I wrote about above, and I also have a MasterClub sent of resin Tiger I tracks that should work well. For Modern 'live' tracks, the 'rubber band' type seem to work well, and are much better detailed than the ones of yesteryear, or so I'm told. I will use these on the Dragon M1A2 models that come with those. I won't do Magic Tracks again. Just my opinion, but if my first experience is typical of what I can expect, no thanks.

Best of luck to you, and keep us up on what you decide! This is a great hobby, and don't let this track issue put you off.

Many thanks for the input Curt! Sorry for the delay in replying to your post to thank you, but I've been putting in a ton of time researching this issue based on various suggestions offered by the generous folks like yourself. Once I get finished my general research as to what's available, I then plan to look at each alternative as thoroughly as I can.

I'm in sort of a "down time" right now as I wait for the 2 supply orders I placed to arrive. I've also put together a good inventory of kits from which to choose my "start up" builds (eBay and PayPal must love me once again ), but I'm slowing down there as well (won't bid on or buy-it-now on a kit I can cheaper from a dealer). Still wrestling with the compressor issue (see other post on that). So, I'm juggling several things at once.

But on the bright side, I saw my cardiologist this past Monday (I had quadruple by-pass surgery back in 2007) and got a great report. My diabetes sugar levels are looking good again. And last but not least, my wife says she hasn't seen me this happy and content in a long, long time. So I guess this is all worth it!