I'm headed to a local contest this weekend. I've tried taking photos of the models sitting on the tables in the past, but with marginal results.
Since I can't construct my own photo booth there on-site and start manhandling the models into said photo booth, I'm curious if others have tips and tricks for how to get well lit, quality images at events without touching the models.
Thanks!
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Quality images at a contest
communityguy
#280
Member Since: May 14, 2012
entire network: 493 Posts
KitMaker Network: 133 Posts
Posted: Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 09:30 PM UTC
Armored76
Member Since: September 30, 2013
entire network: 1,615 Posts
KitMaker Network: 60 Posts
Posted: Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 10:54 PM UTC
I think it's not that difficult... with the right equipment.
Will you be using a compact or a DSLR camera? Flash external or internal? Monopod or tripod available?
Knowing the above would help giving "the right" answer.
Cheers,
Cristian
Will you be using a compact or a DSLR camera? Flash external or internal? Monopod or tripod available?
Knowing the above would help giving "the right" answer.
Cheers,
Cristian
mmeier
Member Since: October 22, 2008
entire network: 1,280 Posts
KitMaker Network: 213 Posts
Posted: Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 10:55 PM UTC
Basic problem is the light, the halls are generally not as bright as they appear. Did some shooting on an RPG convention in 2014 and even at appreture of f/2.8 I got ISO 800-1600 on a Crop DSLR. And for shooting models you will want an f/5.6 at the minimum and f/8 or f/11 is useful for big kits to get it all sharp.
Since a tripod is generally not useable (unless you want to see a lynchmob forming) and even a monopod is borderline, this would be my setup:
a) DSLR, an EOS 60D "crop" cam these days, useable ISO 1600-3200 but any current gen DSLR should work
b) A wide angel lens, either a 10-24 ultra wide or, due to the stabiliser, the 18-55mm "Kit"(1)
c) External flash, LF 39 (the internal has one third the power). Internal should be good enough but my 10-24s lense hood throws shadows with the internal unit
d) Starting with Appreture priority (user selects apperture, camera does the rest) and for start an f/8, ISO to "Auto" with a ISO1600 limit and the lets see what exposure times we get. At least with the Canon the flash is added as a fill light for the main motive so this might not work. Still, worth a try
With the 18-55 at the most likely length (
Since a tripod is generally not useable (unless you want to see a lynchmob forming) and even a monopod is borderline, this would be my setup:
a) DSLR, an EOS 60D "crop" cam these days, useable ISO 1600-3200 but any current gen DSLR should work
b) A wide angel lens, either a 10-24 ultra wide or, due to the stabiliser, the 18-55mm "Kit"(1)
c) External flash, LF 39 (the internal has one third the power). Internal should be good enough but my 10-24s lense hood throws shadows with the internal unit
d) Starting with Appreture priority (user selects apperture, camera does the rest) and for start an f/8, ISO to "Auto" with a ISO1600 limit and the lets see what exposure times we get. At least with the Canon the flash is added as a fill light for the main motive so this might not work. Still, worth a try
With the 18-55 at the most likely length (
communityguy
#280
Member Since: May 14, 2012
entire network: 493 Posts
KitMaker Network: 133 Posts
Posted: Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 11:06 PM UTC
I am using a full frame camera and can bring external flashes, etc. I'm also not opposed to picking up new equipment/modifiers to get it right.
Armored76
Member Since: September 30, 2013
entire network: 1,615 Posts
KitMaker Network: 60 Posts
Posted: Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 11:12 PM UTC
Well, in this case all that MBR suggested already plus:
- a monopod (I don't think this is over the limit)
- an external flash with a softbox on it
- a lens in the range of 35-75mm (50/1.4 would be my choice)
Does that sound about right?
Cristian
- a monopod (I don't think this is over the limit)
- an external flash with a softbox on it
- a lens in the range of 35-75mm (50/1.4 would be my choice)
Does that sound about right?
Cristian
mmeier
Member Since: October 22, 2008
entire network: 1,280 Posts
KitMaker Network: 213 Posts
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 11:02 AM UTC
With a 36mm full frame my lens of choice would be something like a 2x-7x zoom since that is IIRC the equivalent of a crop 1x-5x zoom. But I admit to prefer zooms over primes. If you go with primes, I would bring a 2x or 3x mm as well, the shows can be quite crowded.
I totally agree with at least asking if a monopod is okay. When I was at MiWuLa in Hamburg last year (miniature model railway, in many ways similar to what you plan to shoot), tripods where out but at least for certain times of the day (less public) a monopod would have been okay and for an unstabilised lens quite useful (I estimate one EV worth in time). Quite a few shots in MiWuLa where done with a 10-24 (16-38 for full frame) at the lower end due to space restrictions.
Softbox/diffusor on the flash is also what I would use since you'll most likely flash directly instead of over a wall or the cyling. My cheap Yognuo (I do not use flash all that much) came with a decend one for those jobs.
Oh and a second set of batteries for camera and flash. I found myself using the monitor a lot more than common to check histograms and framing (okay a FullFrame likely has a 100 percent viewfinder - ah color me green with envy
) than normal and got less than the normal 800+ shots out of the camera battery.
I totally agree with at least asking if a monopod is okay. When I was at MiWuLa in Hamburg last year (miniature model railway, in many ways similar to what you plan to shoot), tripods where out but at least for certain times of the day (less public) a monopod would have been okay and for an unstabilised lens quite useful (I estimate one EV worth in time). Quite a few shots in MiWuLa where done with a 10-24 (16-38 for full frame) at the lower end due to space restrictions.
Softbox/diffusor on the flash is also what I would use since you'll most likely flash directly instead of over a wall or the cyling. My cheap Yognuo (I do not use flash all that much) came with a decend one for those jobs.
Oh and a second set of batteries for camera and flash. I found myself using the monitor a lot more than common to check histograms and framing (okay a FullFrame likely has a 100 percent viewfinder - ah color me green with envy
) than normal and got less than the normal 800+ shots out of the camera battery.Armored76
Member Since: September 30, 2013
entire network: 1,615 Posts
KitMaker Network: 60 Posts
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 11:14 AM UTC
It's such a pleasure reading your posts, MBR! To the point but with lots of details and explanations. You should consider teaching these things! 
Cheers,
Cristian
To the point but with lots of details and explanations. You should consider teaching these things! Cheers,
Cristian
mmeier
Member Since: October 22, 2008
entire network: 1,280 Posts
KitMaker Network: 213 Posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 05:31 PM UTC
So, how did it work out? We want pictures
MarkySpitz
Member Since: January 28, 2015
entire network: 24 Posts
KitMaker Network: 16 Posts
Posted: Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 09:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm headed to a local contest this weekend. I've tried taking photos of the models sitting on the tables in the past, but with marginal results.
Since I can't construct my own photo booth there on-site and start manhandling the models into said photo booth, I'm curious if others have tips and tricks for how to get well lit, quality images at events without touching the models.
Thanks!
Fu*k all that noise, your best lighting conditions are natural sunlight...take it outside and photograph it! Be sure to white balance your camera prior.
MarkySpitz
Member Since: January 28, 2015
entire network: 24 Posts
KitMaker Network: 16 Posts
Posted: Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 09:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI'm headed to a local contest this weekend. I've tried taking photos of the models sitting on the tables in the past, but with marginal results.
Since I can't construct my own photo booth there on-site and start manhandling the models into said photo booth, I'm curious if others have tips and tricks for how to get well lit, quality images at events without touching the models.
Thanks!
Fu*k all that noise, your best lighting conditions are natural sunlight...take it outside and photograph it! Be sure to white balance your camera prior.
Oh...I should add that an overcast sky is best, best...and the pros' know this...just want to charge you for studio use...know how to "white balance" ?
MarkySpitz
Member Since: January 28, 2015
entire network: 24 Posts
KitMaker Network: 16 Posts
Posted: Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 09:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Basic problem is the light, the halls are generally not as bright as they appear. Did some shooting on an RPG convention in 2014 and even at appreture of f/2.8 I got ISO 800-1600 on a Crop DSLR. And for shooting models you will want an f/5.6 at the minimum and f/8 or f/11 is useful for big kits to get it all sharp.
Since a tripod is generally not useable (unless you want to see a lynchmob forming) and even a monopod is borderline, this would be my setup:
a) DSLR, an EOS 60D "crop" cam these days, useable ISO 1600-3200 but any current gen DSLR should work
b) A wide angel lens, either a 10-24 ultra wide or, due to the stabiliser, the 18-55mm "Kit"(1)
c) External flash, LF 39 (the internal has one third the power). Internal should be good enough but my 10-24s lense hood throws shadows with the internal unit
d) Starting with Appreture priority (user selects apperture, camera does the rest) and for start an f/8, ISO to "Auto" with a ISO1600 limit and the lets see what exposure times we get. At least with the Canon the flash is added as a fill light for the main motive so this might not work. Still, worth a try
With the 18-55 at the most likely length (
This is where that "Fu*k all that noise" phrase actually belongs...video pro here
MarkySpitz
Member Since: January 28, 2015
entire network: 24 Posts
KitMaker Network: 16 Posts
Posted: Saturday, March 07, 2015 - 09:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI'm headed to a local contest this weekend. I've tried taking photos of the models sitting on the tables in the past, but with marginal results.
Since I can't construct my own photo booth there on-site and start manhandling the models into said photo booth, I'm curious if others have tips and tricks for how to get well lit, quality images at events without touching the models.
Thanks!
Fu*k all that noise, your best lighting conditions are natural sunlight...take it outside and photograph it! Be sure to white balance your camera prior.
remember the phrase KISS..."Keep It Simple Stupid"
mmeier
Member Since: October 22, 2008
entire network: 1,280 Posts
KitMaker Network: 213 Posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2015 - 04:24 AM UTC
The TO stated that he is likely not able to move the scale models at all. So what gives you the idea he will be allowed to take them outside? We are not talking about kits the TO owns but about other peoples kits.
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